So far, the Pilot's links are winning. Not being cooperative like the ones on my Saturn despite lots of PB Blaster. The nuts are not budging, and I can only get one of them to turn slightly along with the ball. The stock ones are round on the inboard side so you can't hold them with Vise Grips or a box wrench. There's a hex in the end of the bolt for an Allen wrench, it just walked out when I tried to hold the one that's turning slightly. Starting to think sawzall, cutoff wheel, or nut splitter. Any ideas?
Stabilizer links vs. me
- Thread starter Dave Sherman
- Start date
Yes to all of the above. Cut off wheel would be my first choice.
It’s a careful cut, as the nut on one side has to be cut right up to the bar/strut.
If you cut the stud on the backside, there is a flange that butts up against the bar/strut, and you have to cut that flange all the way off.
It’s a careful cut, as the nut on one side has to be cut right up to the bar/strut.
If you cut the stud on the backside, there is a flange that butts up against the bar/strut, and you have to cut that flange all the way off.
Known issue with all 3 Toyotas in my sig.
I go right to the Grinder…….don’t waste my time trying to loosen nuts/bolts.
I go right to the Grinder…….don’t waste my time trying to loosen nuts/bolts.
The allen key socket is the perfect place to start drilling out the stud with a sharp bit and some lube. You don't even have to go all the way through, just far enough under where the nut hits the bar. I think I stepped up the bit size once when doing this on my wife's Corolla and the second bit popped it right off.
Astro described it well. It is a tough cut.
My saga with some good tips from others. The smaller the cutter, the better. I ended up breaking off the nut.
My saga with some good tips from others. The smaller the cutter, the better. I ended up breaking off the nut.
2009 Honda CRV - End Links Rusted on
Hey folks: I tried to change out the front struts - but ended up having trouble with rusted nuts on the end links. Like a dope - I should have just stopped, but instead I destroyed the end links by gripping the back with a locking pliers. (I had them replaced a few years back and hoped that...
bobistheoilguy.com
Thanks Chester. Just so I'm understanding your solution, you were cutting the nut off perpendicular to the stud? Or were you cutting parallel to the stud to split the nut in half? I have been dousing it with PB Blaster in the meantime, I didn't have a chance to attack it again yet.
Get CTR sway bar links. They have a nut on the other end so you don't have to deal with that stupid hex key 
Cut off the old one and replace it with CTR
Cut off the old one and replace it with CTR
After failing perpendicular, I cut parallel to split the nut. I would do the bottom first - if you manage to get the top out, most of the torque you apply is lost to the movement of the sway bar. (And the link just flops around, and hits you in the head).
I first attempted to cut the flange side - thinking the stud and nut would fall out. This didn't work - the flange welded itself on the sway bar and left me with nut side stuck on. (Top tip - pounding on sway bar side is useless because the sway bar absorbs the blow).
So eventually - cutting parallel to the stud allowed me to cut a few relief notches in the nut. (Note that the nuts are hardened, and not easy to split). One I was able to break loose with an air chisel (using the notch I cut as leverage) after jamming a pry bar between the lower control arm and sway bar. It was not easy.
If I had to do it again - I would do what the pro in the thread recommended - break off or melt the link, leaving the ball. (Inside the moon looking thing with blue plastic is a ball that is secured by the nut you see.) Hold the ball with vice grips and turn the nut. (I'm not positive this would have worked in my case, given the amount of rust).
It's just a terrible design. (I did the job twice - failed the first time and took it a shop. The parts the shop installed then failed, so I had to redo it).
Good luck. A face shield and gloves help. Let us know how it works.
Dave, if they are like the OEM links on my Element, the nuts are interference thread which deform when installed to prevent loosening. Mine were 100% rust free and would not budge with a 26" breaker bar after soaking in Aerokroil for days. Using a 1000 psi impact wrench, I was able to snap off 1 nut while the others just spun the studs in the socket joint. I ended up using a small grinding wheel and a diamond cutting wheel to destroy the nuts or cut the bolts. I used Moog Problem Solvers which were made in Japan with grease fittings. They also had the hex nut flange on the backside like the CTR units to hold the stud in place instead of the feeble hex key cavity.
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- Jun 2, 2022
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- 26
If you're replacing the links, my standard procedure is to pry the ball stud out of the link and grab the ball with vise grips. lots of PB blaster and an impact help, I also smack the end of the ball stud with a hammer to try and break any corrosion in the threads.