Spirax S4 in manual transmission?

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Hey guys,

I have a NV4500 manual transmission in my truck. It specs a synthetic GL4 for the fluid, which is next to impossible to find except at the dealer. The factory fluid is $30/qt from the dealer and I can get a 1 gallon pail for about $40 online (plus shipping).

I was in Walmart yesterday, and they have Shell Spirax S4 TXM in a 5 gallon pail for $50... It looks like it would be fine if I keep it changed regularly, GL4 with friction modifiers for wet-brake systems.

My biggest dilemma is that I did a poor job cleaning the transmission when I rebuilt it, and I don't want to dump the OE fluid which is apparently liquid gold into the case just to flush it out and put new in.

Any ideas on if this should be okay? It looks fine to me but I wanted to get some advise. I could get some UOAs and VOAs and compare the two fluids if I end up buying it i guess.

Here's a link to the data sheet.
http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC_GTDS_Shell_Spirax_S4_TXM_(en)_TDS.pdf
 
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Spirax is 2-3cst too thin.

You can use 75w85 GL4 from Nissan, Redline, or Hyundai.

Ford, Amsoil, Redline, Pennzoil... have 75w90 GL4. Shift quality may be a little slow with a thicker fluid. You could thin the 75w90 with Lubegard gear fluid supplement.
 
Quote:
Special Synthetic GL-4 gear oil is required for proper operation and lifespan of the carbon composite gear synchronizers.

These are the only lubricants recommended by New Venture Gear for the NV4500:

75W-90 Castrol Syntorque Synthetic
Mopar Synthetic Manual Transmission Lubricant Mopar P/N 4874459 (Material Specification 9070)[2]
GM Goodwrench® Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid (GM Part No. U.S. 12346190, in Canada 10953477)[3]


With that info i would only use the exact fluid recommended by the manufacturer. Using a substitute is just asking for trouble IMHO.
 
If this is a 5 speed manual in a Chevrolet or GMC truck, I would not use anything other than the specified oil. Back in the 90s I had a C3500 with one in it and it had about 125 miles on it when a tie-rod fell off as I turned into a driveway (was not tightened at the factory). The idiot who operated the vulture truck the dealer sent to tow it in towed it on its back wheels in neutral and destroyed the transmission. It took about 3 weeks to install a new transmission, but they did not have the correct oil and had to use "something else".

Two weeks later, the transmission grenaded and they started the process to install another new transmission, but GM balked and sent a rep to check it out. There was a significant delay and due to the fact that I paid the first and second note while it was in the shop for essentially the same problem, I sought relief under the lemon law and received a new truck.

Long story short--this transmission seems to be very fickle like an automatic regrading certain fluid types and I would not deviate. With that said, I hope for your sake the "poor cleaning job" does not come back to haunt you at an inopportune time.
 
No trouble as multi material compatible MT additives are commonly used. If its a GL4 MT fluid, it will work fine. CF/moly synchros are nothing new and used by many manufacturers.

The OE fluid is the only pseudo-lifetime 100k+ fluid. Any non OE fluid should have a reasonable time/mileage change interval.
 
The spec sheet does say that spirax can be used where an 85W GL4 gear oil is needed. My Tracker can use a 75W85 GL4 in the trans and transfer case, but it seems that everyone says to use 75W90 synthetic in the NV4500.
I suppose if you were driving around this winter, lightly loaded, the spriax would be fine especially for a short flush, but for towing in the summer I`d go with the proven good stuff.
 
Quote:
Just an additional comment:

We should emphasize again that the GL-4 rating for gear lubes is primarily a gear and bearing protection rating for systems that are not as heavily loaded as those found in hypoid differentials or Heavy Duty truck transmissions.

It should NOT be assumed than ANY gear lube with the GL-4 rating is suitable for Manual Transmissons.

Dedicated or application specific MTL's not only have the necessary Anti-Wear chemistry to attain a GL-4 rating, but also have the correct viscosity and friction modification for synchronized transmissions.

Bottom line is, there is more to a Dedicated or application specific MTL than just a GL-4 rating.Just an additional comment:

We should emphasize again that the GL-4 rating for gear lubes is primarily a gear and bearing protection rating for systems that are not as heavily loaded as those found in hypoid differentials or Heavy Duty truck transmissions.

It should NOT be assumed than ANY gear lube with the GL-4 rating is suitable for Manual Transmissons.

Dedicated or application specific MTL's not only have the necessary Anti-Wear chemistry to attain a GL-4 rating, but also have the correct viscosity and friction modification for synchronized transmissions.

Bottom line is, there is more to a Dedicated or application specific MTL than just a GL-4 rating.
 
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
If this is a 5 speed manual in a Chevrolet or GMC truck, I would not use anything other than the specified oil. Back in the 90s I had a C3500 with one in it and it had about 125 miles on it when a tie-rod fell off as I turned into a driveway (was not tightened at the factory). The idiot who operated the vulture truck the dealer sent to tow it in towed it on its back wheels in neutral and destroyed the transmission. It took about 3 weeks to install a new transmission, but they did not have the correct oil and had to use "something else".

Two weeks later, the transmission grenaded and they started the process to install another new transmission, but GM balked and sent a rep to check it out. There was a significant delay and due to the fact that I paid the first and second note while it was in the shop for essentially the same problem, I sought relief under the lemon law and received a new truck.

Long story short--this transmission seems to be very fickle like an automatic regrading certain fluid types and I would not deviate. With that said, I hope for your sake the "poor cleaning job" does not come back to haunt you at an inopportune time.


Gah... I expected this. I though I had done a decent job cleaning everything up until I had to drain the fluid (I had to open it up again) it all came out nasty. I was hoping to be able to flush it out, but I guess I'll just bite the bullet and pony up for the liquid gold.


Thanks to all of you who replied!
 
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