My POS stock Toyota battery is growing electrolyte fuzz all around the bracket on my Tundra. Im already on my second battery (warranty replacment) because the first one had a dead cell after 9 months. Its been in there about a year. Its 550 CCA. Sometimes the truck is hard to start (turns over a lot), but I think thats just the way it is. Would a battery with more CCA bring the truck to life easier? I can get a Nascar XLT battery (exide orbital) 770CCA battery at sams club for $100+ tax. Dya think its worth it? At least it wont be eating my battery bracket!
Spiral Cell battery (optima, exide orbital)
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How many miles on the truck? You might want to try new plugs and wires--perhaps you aren't getting full voltage to the spark plugs.
Also, what is the condition of the alternator. If it is toasting batteries, perhaps you need to get the full electrical system tested. I am guessing that OEM Toyota batteries are pretty good quality, but yes, that is a somewhat low number for CCA.
It is more common then ever in Toyota's now to have OEM batterys die. If you are lucky enough to get an AC/Delco they usualy last 5-7 years. THe other batterys Toyota also uses like the Panasonics amoung many tend to be POS! SO far I have been lucky with my Panosonic (knock on wood)! My mothers Tundra turns over at aninsanely fast speed with here OEM battery even in the dead of winter! I suspect that you either have another bad battery or some other problem like bad ground etc...
I will say this Toyota's operate at a much higher voltage then domestic vechiles. In practice the resting voltage is about the same as domestic around 12.8 but with the engine runing they usualy read about 14.2-14.8(observation not listed spec.)!
Do you drive your vechile enough to keep the battery charged? Are you running any power hunger acc. like an audio amplifer or an RF amplifer? Are you powering a welder etc?????
If your problem is simply another cheap OEM battery or the fact that you are not driveing enough to completly charge the battery then yes an exide orbital or an optima will help. These style of batterys recharge faster then a liquid electrolyte lead acid battery. If you have a bad voltage regulator or cable then no battery will help until you fix it!
550 Cold Cranking Amps should be enough to start that truck no problem in all but the most frigid temp's. I have seen 550 CCA and smaller used in large domestic V8 even in cold winter temps! Remmeber you have a gear reduction starter that does not need as many amp as an old drirect drive starter.
I think you should probably take it to your sealer and tell them to fix what is wrong! IF it is the cable, the alt. the battery ........... You might even go to AZ and get a free electrical test to see if they find anything wrong! IT could prove useful if you have any problem with the dealer!
I will say this Toyota's operate at a much higher voltage then domestic vechiles. In practice the resting voltage is about the same as domestic around 12.8 but with the engine runing they usualy read about 14.2-14.8(observation not listed spec.)!
Do you drive your vechile enough to keep the battery charged? Are you running any power hunger acc. like an audio amplifer or an RF amplifer? Are you powering a welder etc?????
If your problem is simply another cheap OEM battery or the fact that you are not driveing enough to completly charge the battery then yes an exide orbital or an optima will help. These style of batterys recharge faster then a liquid electrolyte lead acid battery. If you have a bad voltage regulator or cable then no battery will help until you fix it!
550 Cold Cranking Amps should be enough to start that truck no problem in all but the most frigid temp's. I have seen 550 CCA and smaller used in large domestic V8 even in cold winter temps! Remmeber you have a gear reduction starter that does not need as many amp as an old drirect drive starter.
I think you should probably take it to your sealer and tell them to fix what is wrong! IF it is the cable, the alt. the battery ........... You might even go to AZ and get a free electrical test to see if they find anything wrong! IT could prove useful if you have any problem with the dealer!
JHZR2
Staff member
My father's corola had some sort of toyota OE battery which, though it grew a lot of fuzz at the top, worked fine for 5 years. We had to clean it twice a year at lest though!
His 94 previa still had its original panasonic battery last winter. We got an AZ duralast gold, not because the panasonic one was showing any signs of going bad, but because it was VERY old and AZ had a one day only sale and gave us $30 off on the battery.
The AC delco OE battery got a dead cell in about 9 months after I bought my chevy truck new. Worked fine for about 5 years, after which I was getting tired of having my trip computer reset after each shutdown. But even with the bad battery, mine always started on the very first cylinder, no cranking at all. The fact that your truck is hard to start tells me there is another issue.
Dont go thinking about spending your own $$$ if the truck is under warranty. Demand to have the problem corrected. And follow through after warranty if it isnt fixed to your liking.
JMH
His 94 previa still had its original panasonic battery last winter. We got an AZ duralast gold, not because the panasonic one was showing any signs of going bad, but because it was VERY old and AZ had a one day only sale and gave us $30 off on the battery.
The AC delco OE battery got a dead cell in about 9 months after I bought my chevy truck new. Worked fine for about 5 years, after which I was getting tired of having my trip computer reset after each shutdown. But even with the bad battery, mine always started on the very first cylinder, no cranking at all. The fact that your truck is hard to start tells me there is another issue.
Dont go thinking about spending your own $$$ if the truck is under warranty. Demand to have the problem corrected. And follow through after warranty if it isnt fixed to your liking.
JMH
I don't like the Optima style for deep cycle use, they may be ok for starting haven't tried them for that. In deep cycle they have on half the capacity (amp hours) of a conventional and cost twice as much
Tried them several times in my company Durango which has a dual battery sytem to run a bunch of 12v test equipment and invertors etc. I suspect starting performance would be similar, they just cost too much for what you get IMO.
The truck is almost 2 years old. 15600 miles. The first battery (heavy duty all weather package) would die while parked in the garage, and Id have to jump it a couple of times. Finally took to the dealer after 9 months and they gave me a new, smaller, 550CCA Toyota Truestart battery. I ran the battery down one time by running a power converter off the cig lighter for too long. This was 6 months ago and every thing has been fine since. Over the past 3 weeks, Ive been working on installing foglights and grill guard lights (so 2 add'l sets of lights, 220 watts total). I ran the battery down one time while testing the lights and had to jump it. It had been fine for a week. I have been driving approx 15 miles at a time at 40+ mph several times. Just yesterday, I drive 6 miles and park. Come out 2 hrs later, and it turns over about 10 times but wont start. Then I turn it over again about 10 times and it squeaks to life, barely. Is this the alternator? Its hardly had any stress on it. The whole truck that is. Its garaged 90% of the time and barely driven in winter.
I agree that you should get it checked but I think your placeing too much demand on the electrical system for the little bit of chargeing time you are giveing it! Everytime you draw down your battery to next to zero you take away some of it's storage life. You need to trickle charge it for 24 hours after a draw down before even load testing it for the results to be accurate! I also think it souds like you might have a parrisitic draw some place!
You need to do yourself a favor and invest in a trickle charger and a battery buddy! Even if they find a problem and fix it still check into the above items!!
Get the dealer to fix what ever is wrong!
You need to do yourself a favor and invest in a trickle charger and a battery buddy! Even if they find a problem and fix it still check into the above items!!
Get the dealer to fix what ever is wrong!
my mom's 04 tundra has the same problem.
I see enough of these situations to comment.
My guess is that your Toyota is equipped with a Top Post Group 35 or Group 25 Battery.
Either or is a good fitment, although I defer to the larger and more common 35.
When in doubt have a professional load test the battery, charging system, starter and to check for any drains.
Many DIY's neglect this only to find there new battery dead in short order.
On Optima, Exide Orbital.
Last time I checked the Orbital was made by Johnson Controls...AC Delco, Die Hard, PepBoys, Interstate, Optima, etc.
Be warned however. There are still mystery bugs in the Optima/Exide Orbital Red Top (Grp 35/75, 34/78)
The Deep Cycle Marine D34 Blue Top, Yellow Top 34/78, and 51R(Honda) are very reliable.
If you want a Battery worthy of the elite grade go with Odysee.
They are amazing and no bugs that haunt the Optimas.
Jegs has the Odysee PC Series.
My guess is that your Toyota is equipped with a Top Post Group 35 or Group 25 Battery.
Either or is a good fitment, although I defer to the larger and more common 35.
When in doubt have a professional load test the battery, charging system, starter and to check for any drains.
Many DIY's neglect this only to find there new battery dead in short order.
On Optima, Exide Orbital.
Last time I checked the Orbital was made by Johnson Controls...AC Delco, Die Hard, PepBoys, Interstate, Optima, etc.
Be warned however. There are still mystery bugs in the Optima/Exide Orbital Red Top (Grp 35/75, 34/78)
The Deep Cycle Marine D34 Blue Top, Yellow Top 34/78, and 51R(Honda) are very reliable.
If you want a Battery worthy of the elite grade go with Odysee.
They are amazing and no bugs that haunt the Optimas.
Jegs has the Odysee PC Series.
I am curious about the issues with the Optima battery. I have (2) red tops, and (1) performs fine in my diesel tractor. The other in my truck seems to have a very low resting voltage (12.4v) regardless of charge state.
For example : The ODB2 is reporting anywhere from 13.9 to 14.5 volts while the engine is running. A few hours after parking the terminal voltage is around 12.4v. I place a charger on it and the battery is fully charged in a matter of minutes. (?)
12.4v (resting) should be about 50% discharged for an AGM battery, and it is clearly not 1/2 dead. I have also brought it up to full charge with a regulated power supply (14.9 volts constant voltage until the current drops to 1% of the 44AH battery capacity) - it comes up to full charge in say 10 minutes limited to 2 amps for the first few seconds & rapidly dropping in the milliamp range of 800ma or so.
Any ideas?
For example : The ODB2 is reporting anywhere from 13.9 to 14.5 volts while the engine is running. A few hours after parking the terminal voltage is around 12.4v. I place a charger on it and the battery is fully charged in a matter of minutes. (?)
12.4v (resting) should be about 50% discharged for an AGM battery, and it is clearly not 1/2 dead. I have also brought it up to full charge with a regulated power supply (14.9 volts constant voltage until the current drops to 1% of the 44AH battery capacity) - it comes up to full charge in say 10 minutes limited to 2 amps for the first few seconds & rapidly dropping in the milliamp range of 800ma or so.
Any ideas?
Low electrolyte consintration would be my guess on the low resting voltage.
I have bought 4 of the Optima 34/78 batteries in my car and family vehicles. I have not had enough time to comment on life.
I do notice the wierd low voltage thing though.
These batteries can be bought for about $99 at Costco in California and Washington, don't know about other areas.
I do notice the wierd low voltage thing though.
These batteries can be bought for about $99 at Costco in California and Washington, don't know about other areas.
Just checked my Mom's battery in her 2003 Tundra. It is a group 27F 715CCA with 165 Minute Reserve. It did not have any name listed on it it is just aa white case with a black top. Their was some signs of sulfur coating begining to build up between the two terminals. It was just barley vissable! The terminal themselfs looked good it opeared to be off gasing fromt he seal!
On Grp 27F:
Grp 34/78 is also cross-listed for this application.
What is confusing is that there is a Grp 27 (Chrysler) and Grp 27 European.
The difference being is which side the Positive terminal is on (w/terminals facing away from you if the battery is in front of your tummy)
27 are huge batteries, 34/78 are smaller.
The catch 22 is go with the largest and most powerful battery you can find.
27 huge, less CCA . 34/78 smaller, typically more CCA.
27 however may have higher Reserve Capacity
crucial when your Alternator dies out.
On Optima batteries:
The bug is that many Red Top 75/35 and 34/78 seems to fail within months of purchase.
This is highly unusual do to the long life characteristics both advertised and expected of AGM Batteries.
Grp 34/78 is also cross-listed for this application.
What is confusing is that there is a Grp 27 (Chrysler) and Grp 27 European.
The difference being is which side the Positive terminal is on (w/terminals facing away from you if the battery is in front of your tummy)
27 are huge batteries, 34/78 are smaller.
The catch 22 is go with the largest and most powerful battery you can find.
27 huge, less CCA . 34/78 smaller, typically more CCA.
27 however may have higher Reserve Capacity
On Optima batteries:
The bug is that many Red Top 75/35 and 34/78 seems to fail within months of purchase.
This is highly unusual do to the long life characteristics both advertised and expected of AGM Batteries.
To avoid, hopefully, the type of problem described in the original post I went with a Blue-Top Marine OPTIMA in our Jeep XJ. Recently added mil-spec lugs with 2/0 cabling for pos/neg and replaced or added heavy grounds elsewhere.
Headlights, horn, trailer wiring is all connected at the battery (mostly off of relays); wiring and associated relays, terminations, etc, is all ANCOR Marine-grade. All connectors coated with light film of NOALOX to eliminate corrosion.
Voltmeter on dash still shows less than 14V in any conditions (although every electrically-operated item, heavy draw, is "faster" now); Jeep to go to shop soon and will have the techs put their big boy testers to work so as to find any problem (beyond cheap dash gauge).
Usually works well for me that if I attend, detail-oriented, to the little things -- system-wide -- that the techs have an easier time in diagnosing and actually correcting problems.
I went with the D34 OPTIMA because of its good recommendations on different boards. Found it at local O'REILLY Auto Parts; all other supplies came through danielsternlighting.com, JEEPERS & CREEPERS and WEST MARINE.
Headlights, horn, trailer wiring is all connected at the battery (mostly off of relays); wiring and associated relays, terminations, etc, is all ANCOR Marine-grade. All connectors coated with light film of NOALOX to eliminate corrosion.
Voltmeter on dash still shows less than 14V in any conditions (although every electrically-operated item, heavy draw, is "faster" now); Jeep to go to shop soon and will have the techs put their big boy testers to work so as to find any problem (beyond cheap dash gauge).
Usually works well for me that if I attend, detail-oriented, to the little things -- system-wide -- that the techs have an easier time in diagnosing and actually correcting problems.
I went with the D34 OPTIMA because of its good recommendations on different boards. Found it at local O'REILLY Auto Parts; all other supplies came through danielsternlighting.com, JEEPERS & CREEPERS and WEST MARINE.
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