Specific Oil Application

[Dookie]

Yeah, traded in the RSX for the Murano, but not because of oil consumption. Actually, when I started using Amsoil 0W-30, it stopped. I'm thinking that the Noack Volatility had something to do with it. Ran a lot better at higher RPM's too. Anyway, do you guys think 0W-30 oil is not the best to be running in the Vegas heat or is it okay because it's still a "30" weight?

Well, you all have different opinions. Thats good though. If everyone had the same opinion, then the world wouldn't be nearly as exciting as it is today...

I used Amsoil 0W-30 and their oil filters in my RSX, and still have it in my wife's 02 Lancer. I think I will change the oil again at 3,750 Castrol, then change it at 7,500 with Amsoil 0W-30 and the Amsoil filter, along with the Amsoil Air Filter. As long as I keep an eye on the silicon levels and other things through analysis, I should be okay.

One thing about Mobil One with my old RSX, which consumed oil from day one--as soon as I added 10W-30 M1, it comsumed more than it did with dino oil. Amsoil--it stopped.

[ February 22, 2003, 06:52 PM: Message edited by: Dookie ]

 

[3 Mad Ponchos]

How long do you plan on keeping it?

This is probably sacrilege to point out, but I've had several cars where I bought whatever oil was on sale and whatever filter was available, with 3000-mile intervals, and drove them well beyond 150,000 miles without any oil-related problems.

So I'd say if your time horizon is 150k or less, it depends on how much you really care. Regular oil at 3k will get you to 150k easy. Probably more.

But if you tend to flog the truck or plan to keep it till the next ice age or you're just really picky, then you might want synthetic with analysis to determine an acceptable interval (the thing doesn't come with an oil life indicator?).

Cheers, 3MP

 

[Dookie]

Well, I plan on keeping it a long time. What about this 0W-30 oil? Is it okay in the high temps out here?

 

[Patman]

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Originally posted by Dookie:
Well, I plan on keeping it a long time. What about this 0W-30 oil? Is it okay in the high temps out here?

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0w30 Amsoil, definitely. 0w30 Mobil 1, not really. Stick with 10w30 M1 in hotter temps.

 

[YZF150]

Ok, Dookie, do this:

When you reach 500 miles, change the oil. Use the same weight oil that the manufacturer recommends. Use a dino oil like Castrol GTX. Change the filter. Use a Bosch, K&N, or Wix. Note that there are aftermarket names for many of these same filters. Napa Gold, for example. Read the pages here for background. I suggest just several that are suspected of flowing well.

Drive the car until you reach 1500 miles. Change the oil again. Use Mobil1 SuperSyn. 10w would be appropriate for your climate. Change filter, too.

After you put 5000 miles on that oil, change it and sample it for analysis. Read the pages here about oil analysis. That will give you the baseline info that will help you decide where to go from there.

There's no magic formula for this. My suggestions are a generic recipe for success that I believe is a reasonable take on the consensus of the people that haunt this board.

 

[G-MAN]

quote:

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Originally posted by Dookie:
If I used the M1 oil, what should my drain intervals be? And with what filters, both air and oil?

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I'd go ahead and change the oil now and put the Mobil 1 10w30 in. Run that for 2000 miles, then change it. Run the next batch for 5000. Then settle in to 7500 miles or one year, whichever comes first.

I'd use a SuperTech or Wix oil filter and change it each time I changed the oil.

I'd leave the OEM air filter in there for the first year, then use a Fram air filter. Unlike their oil filters, Fram makes a top notch air filter, IMO.

[ February 22, 2003, 12:37 PM: Message edited by: G-Man II ]

 

[Patman]

I agree about the Fram air filter. My wife's last oil analysis showed only 4ppm of silicon over a 5000 mile interval with a Fram air filter.

 

[Malibu]

G Man II I'm ready for the challenge. Tell me what Fram oil filter model is the same filter as Honda's current genuine Honda Oil filter. I will buy and cut both open and weigh the parts on a scale and post pictures of the scale readings and pictures of the filter parts for comparison.

I did this in the past when someone claimed a Toyota filter was merely a rebadged over-the-counter Purolator filter, but the pictures and scale readings proved the Toyota filter (that was indeed made by Purolator) was different than any OTC Purolator filter one could buy. Example: the filter shell of the Toyota filter was 24% thicker and heavier than the OTC Purolator filters. These and other differences in turn proved the Toyota filter was built to tougher standards than the OTC Purolator filters.

 

[G-MAN]

quote:

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Originally posted by Malibu:
G Man II I'm ready for the challenge. Tell me what Fram oil filter model is the same filter as Honda's current genuine Honda Oil filter. I will buy and cut both open and weigh the parts on a scale and post pictures of the scale readings and pictures of the filter parts for comparison.

I did this in the past when someone claimed a Toyota filter was merely a rebadged over-the-counter Purolator filter, but the pictures and scale readings proved the Toyota filter (that was indeed made by Purolator) was different than any OTC Purolator filter one could buy. Example: the filter shell of the Toyota filter was 24% thicker and heavier than the OTC Purolator filters. These and other differences in turn proved the Toyota filter was built to tougher standards than the OTC Purolator filters.

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Others have already done this and posted links to the photos. The Honda filter had the same cardboard endcaps and other telltale signs of being made by Fram.

 

[Dookie]

Does anybody know the quality of Nissan filters? If I was to change the oil at every 3,000 with regular Valvoline or Castrol, would it be okay?

 

[nick778]

I have a 2k3 Maxima with basically the same engine and have had 2 previous Maximas, a Pathfinder and 4 300zx with the VQ engine. I live in Memphis where it gets very hot in the summer and mostly 25-35 degrees at night in the winter.
It is important that whatever you do that you keep maintenance records in case you ever have a warranty issue. From experience,information gleaned fromt his board and warranty reasons, I change my oil 3 times per year or about once every 4200 miles which is between the 2 Nissan service schedules. I use Nissan OEM air filters, which I feel are the best, and either Bosch or Nissan oil filters; I will stick with the OEM size through the warranty period. For oil, I changed out the factory fill at 1200 miles (after break-in) and replaced with Mobil 1 5w-30; in the summer months, I will run Mobil 1 10w-30. In my '99 Max(out of warranty), I use Amsoil ASL 5w-30 during the summer at it is has a higher Vis for a 5-30w. During the summer, I will also use 3 oz of Shaffers #132 for extra wear protection in the oil. Lastly, I run some Techron full system cleaner through the gas before an oil change and use a few ounces of Schaffers 131 in the gas once/mo.
The nissan VQ is a great engine and I never and any primary engine issues in the many vehicles I've had with this motor.
Also, shold you need discount Nissan parts, try Courtesy Nissan in Texas; they have a website.

 

[Greg]

quote:

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Originally posted by Patman:

quote:

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Originally posted by Malibu:
Any major brand API certified SL engine oil, either dino or synthetic is capable of enabling your Nissan to reach 400,000 miles or more.

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That's a pretty bold statement, especially considering the fact that not a single car has yet to go 400,000 miles using nothing but SL dino oil.

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and how do you know that?

 

[ALJAMES]

Hi G-MAN II,

In my case Nissan oil filters are the best to use for one simple reason, it is the only oil filter that prevents a connecting rod knock on startup after an overnight soak. So the nissan filter has the best anti drain back valve and its operation lasts for the duration of use. This engine startup noise has been my only complaint with the car and I have considered trading it in due to this. I have two noises that I occasionally get at startup. One is a connecting rod knock and the other is a upper engine rattle which seems to come from the valve/lifters/timing chain. The nissan oil filter is the only one to prevent connecting rod knock. I still occasionally get the other noise and it is quiet with some motor oils. I am still searching for the best oil to use.

 

[G-MAN]

quote:

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Originally posted by ALJAMES:
Hi G-MAN II,

In my case Nissan oil filters are the best to use for one simple reason, it is the only oil filter that prevents a connecting rod knock on startup after an overnight soak. So the nissan filter has the best anti drain back valve and its operation lasts for the duration of use. This engine startup noise has been my only complaint with the car and I have considered trading it in due to this. I have two noises that I occasionally get at startup. One is a connecting rod knock and the other is a upper engine rattle which seems to come from the valve/lifters/timing chain. The nissan oil filter is the only one to prevent connecting rod knock. I still occasionally get the other noise and it is quiet with some motor oils. I am still searching for the best oil to use.

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Hi back!

Let me give you something to think about. I seriously (SERIOUSLY) doubt if what you are hearing is a rod knock. A totally collapsed lifter will sound just as bad as a rod knock, and it will knock like an SOB until it gets pumped up. And if you've got more than one, it'll sound like the engine is going to come apart.

[ February 23, 2003, 02:09 PM: Message edited by: G-Man II ]

 

[Greg]

quote:

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Originally posted by Patman:

quote:

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Originally posted by Greg:

quote:

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Originally posted by Patman:

quote:

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Originally posted by Malibu:
Any major brand API certified SL engine oil, either dino or synthetic is capable of enabling your Nissan to reach 400,000 miles or more.

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That's a pretty bold statement, especially considering the fact that not a single car has yet to go 400,000 miles using nothing but SL dino oil.

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and how do you know that?

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Because the SL formula of oils has only been out just over a year, and I seriously doubt anyone has driven that far in one year other than a big rig operator.

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but SL is supposed to be an improvement over SJ, SH, SG, etc., all of which have been in vehicles that have gone that mileage.

 

[Big Red]

ALJAMES
I also own two Nissan products (1995 hardbody 4x4 V6 truck and a 1998 Infinity QX4 V6 4x4). I have found the Nissan oil filters seem to be the best filter for my Nissan's. It is normal with Nissan products to hear the start up noise you hear, due to oil being pumped to the valves.I started out using QS oil, and switched to Castrol GTX 5w30 cold weather and Castrol GTX 10w30 during warmer months.Castrol seems to get the thumbs up from members of this board, which convinced me to switch over to Castrol GTX. I do not use synthetic oil only because I change the oil and filter every 3 months or 3000 miles WCF. Just courious what brand of motor oils have you tried? There are many quality brands out there.

 

[ALJAMES]

G-MAN II,

Trust me, I know what a connecting rod knock sounds like and this engine has made the noise. In fact when I complained to the dealer and he kept the car overnight for the mechanic to start up in the morning, the mechanic admitted that I did have a connecting rod knock on startup. They contacted Infiniti, but would not budge from the statement that the noise is normal.

I have tried the folowing oils: Castrol GTX 5w30, Castrol Syntec 10w40, Valvoline all climate 10w30, Valv durablend 5w30 & 10w30, Valv HD 30wt., Shell Rotella 15w40, Formula Shell 5w30, 10w30, 20w50, Mobile drive clean 5w30, Chevron supreme 5w30 & 10w30, Walmart synthetic 10w30, Kendall GT1 10w40, Citgo Surerguard 10w40.

The lowest startup noise has been with Castrol Syntec 10w40, Kendall GT1 10w40, and Citgo Superguard 10w40. The Syntec only lasted about 1000 miles before the startup noise came back. The best oil so far has been the Citgo Superguard 10w40.

The recommended oil is 5w30 with 10w30 or 10w40 being acceptable based on temperature.

 

[Patman]

quote:

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Originally posted by Greg:

quote:

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Originally posted by Patman:

quote:

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Originally posted by Greg:

quote:

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Originally posted by Patman:

quote:

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Originally posted by Malibu:
Any major brand API certified SL engine oil, either dino or synthetic is capable of enabling your Nissan to reach 400,000 miles or more.

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That's a pretty bold statement, especially considering the fact that not a single car has yet to go 400,000 miles using nothing but SL dino oil.

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and how do you know that?

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Because the SL formula of oils has only been out just over a year, and I seriously doubt anyone has driven that far in one year other than a big rig operator.

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but SL is supposed to be an improvement over SJ, SH, SG, etc., all of which have been in vehicles that have gone that mileage.

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I know that, I'm basically just being a smartass with this guy, since he's making such wild claims without any real data to back himself up. He appears to be a former poster from here who stirred up trouble before with his constant mentioning of genuine Toyota OEM parts.

 

[TOMBUCK]

I think Amsoil 0W-30 or the 5W-30 is very good stuff along with their filters. I use these in both my vehicles, 98 Crown Vic LX/HPP and 2001 Nissan Pathfinder, and also use their airfilters . Have not had a lick of problems with either vehicle.

Tonight, we are expecting -16F temps here. This should be no problem either as Amsoil is thin enough to allowing easy starting down around -50F if the battery don't freeze.

I believe in Amsoil products for automobiles and trucks. Try it, You'll like them.

[ February 23, 2003, 11:40 PM: Message edited by: TOMBUCK ]

 

[TooSlick]

Dookie,

I'd run the Mobil 1, 5w-30 over their 0w-30 for this climate ....I haven't been that impressed with the analysis results of the 0w-30. The M1, 5w-30 and 10w-30 seem to hold up better. I'm sure that Nissan recommends 5w-30 for this V-6 engine ....

TS