Someone Explain this Winter idle (Searched)
- Thread starter PontTransAm1978
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I try to use backroads to get the car up to operating temps, but there are some people who work with me here that jump on the highway which is less than a 1/4 mile away. What can done in this situation to prevent excessive wear on the engine?
Thanks
Thanks
Anything under 50 degrees is considered a cold start for a diesel engine.
Just a thought but wouldn't a bypass filter eleminate much of the problems caused by excessive idling during warmup? I'm guilty of waiting before driving off 2-3 minutes all the time.
One thing that no one has mentioned is block heaters. Plugging one of those babies into the household mains should help raise the temp. of the coolant and oil, shouldn't it?
While I wouldn't rely on a heater to burn off water in the crankcase, shouldn't it help?
And I heard from several ubuitous (sp?) sources that EFI engines need about 15 - 30 seconds to warm up. What about carbed engines? It takes me about 2 minutes to get to the Highway from work, but since the engine is still in high idle, the secondaries don't open up (Q-Jet) and I know the engine isn't warm.... will this damage my engine?
Vuarra, driving 1992 Buick Roadmaster and 1987 Buick Regal
While I wouldn't rely on a heater to burn off water in the crankcase, shouldn't it help?
And I heard from several ubuitous (sp?) sources that EFI engines need about 15 - 30 seconds to warm up. What about carbed engines? It takes me about 2 minutes to get to the Highway from work, but since the engine is still in high idle, the secondaries don't open up (Q-Jet) and I know the engine isn't warm.... will this damage my engine?
Vuarra, driving 1992 Buick Roadmaster and 1987 Buick Regal
Another reason not to idle is emmissions. You will newer warm up the cat with idling even prolonged. I learned that while I tested my subaru's O2 sensors with OBD2 interface (this spring in temp of 60-70). Even after 15 min of idling and fully hot engine the back O2 sensor readings were identical to front one's. Only very fast idle (2000-3000 RPM), higher that the ECU could produce, would be enough to show evidence of cat working.
Idling in cold engine is not just waste of gas and increased engine wear but also equals poisoning the driver with high CO and unburn CH.
Idling in cold engine is not just waste of gas and increased engine wear but also equals poisoning the driver with high CO and unburn CH.
No, becouse excellerated engine (specifically: rings) wear exists when the engine temp is less than 160 or so. When you idle, you expose you engine to these temps longer.
Also, read my emission comment above.
I don't think that's the primary reason (especially since they're running so darn lean at idle anyway). I think it's primarily to keep the piece of equipment in the bunk warm
Dave
YOu know I used to never let car idle more then 60 sconds before pulling away. Now at teh ripe age of 30 soon to be 31 I have changed my mind. My cars last longer then I would typicaly car for them to last any ways. THis has been with tradionaly used cars and trucks. I run synthetic oil and am on the HWY going 80-90 MPH in 2 miles. I drive 20 miles at 80-90 MPH. If that is not enough to burn off 5-10 minutes of idleingoh well. I think other people would prefer that I be able to see out the inside windshield. I also like some warmth.
I too decided I own my car my car does not own me!
I too decided I own my car my car does not own me!
Hey Patman!
I read your post from early last year just last week. I have similar questions / concerns about shuffling cars around the house for a few seconds. However, it just occurred to me to advise you to just relax about that for now and enjoy your family! I have 2 teenagers now - they are great kids and we have a lot of fun - but I'll tell you that having a baby in the house is really special! Invest your time and energy in the family and build those special memories! Have fun! You have got great oil in your cars and there is no way that you are going to let it get so contaminated with moving the cars around that there will be actual harm to the engine. You do realize that you will have to deal with other car-related "emergencies", like baby vomit, spilled juice, and you know that your toddler WILL step in gum and accidently transfer it to the seat cover right before your eyes. And the cracker crumbs everywhere!! Enjoy it, man, it won't last long (it's actually too short), and you can establish "no eat, no drink, no puke, and keep your feet off the seat" rules in your cars later, as I have.
As a new member here, I also want to tell you how much I enjoy your posts. They are well thought-out, well written, sane, reasonable, useful, and thought-provoking.
Take Care,
SWS
I had Blackstone perform an analysis in April. The oil was in use for 6 months only 953 miles during winter. Not driven over 5 miles at a time an idled 20 to 30 minutes each day to warmup ( to and from work).In the comment section it was reported; this oil was in normal physical condition, and we found no gas, moisture or anti-freeze in the sample. This car has been through 12 winters using the same routine.
Patman
Staff member
Thanks for the kind words SWS! I find myself doing a different pattern this year. Now on the weekends I'll often put my Firebird in the garage on Saturday morning after I run my errands, that way it can stay in there and I don't need to shuffle it around later on when we take the Honda out. It's funny you mention the "keep your feet off the seat" rule, because for the very first time ever, we moved the booster seat into the Firebird yesterday and took 2 1/2 year old Alex for his first ride in it! He loved it! I asked him how he liked riding in daddy's car and he smiled and said "much better!"
Exactly. I don't feel like sitting in a cold car in the morning and if I warm it up 5-10 minutes when it's below about 25F I don't have to.
I've not seen the high fuel dilution or water in UOA's that everyone predicts either...
Let me give you a different view of water in combustion. Once we started up a large natural gas fired boiler in the dead of winter from a cold start. So much water poured out of the fire box section we thought we had a tube leak! Turns out that it was nothing but condensation of the water vapor as a byproduct of combustion. Highly acidic and lots of it. Once the boiler warmed up, it all went out the stack. Someone once told me to drive like I had an egg between my foot and the accelerator. Push down too hard and you'll break the egg. Keep ALL your fluids changed at regular intervals, and use common sense. It can't get any easier than that.
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