Well, one step forward two steps back
Finally got the idlers/pulleys and new Alternator in
Which was far from easy
That rear pulley bracket is a
and a half to deal with
That might explain the noise
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There's a TSB for noise, solved by a a revised idler and bracket, but I had already committed $65 to a OEM unit, and I'm not equipped to press bearings in and out
Belt drive will now be much quieter
In went the new Remy alternator, and the Continental belt
The Continental branded idler, had a Litens branded bearing in it
The OE Toyota had a Japan made Koyo
I did not replace the engine mount at this time
Took it for a drive, all seemed well
Voltage a steady 14v+ at all times
Check engine light came on and it stalled
4 coil codes
Maybe some water got into the connectors?
I blew them out, all seemed well
Then it started bucking on the highway
Check engine light on again
I got off the highway, limped it along two lane roads with no shoulder
The last mile home, it stalled at red lights, I had to neutral drop it once or twice to not be stuck in the intersection
StuntMan would've been proud
It finally died in front of a Walgreens, a whole 0.2 miles from my house
It would just start, and die
Tach signal observed at all times
So I walked the 3 blocks home, I'd fetch it tomorrow
I've got AAA Premier, so they were there double quick and got me home no charge
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I haven't had a project leave me walking since Project Escort circa 2013
The coil codes elude me, as it will run on all 4 cylinders
briefly
I'll probably replace all 4 with quality Denso units, if I can get the rest of the engine to work right
I ordered adapters to tee in a fuel pressure gauge, but they were the wrong size
The fact that it would start, idle, then die, seems fuel related to me?
Especially considering the lean codes, hot start issues, etc
So now that it won't run at all, I wanted to see what the fuel pump could put out visually
Now my eye isn't well calibrated, but that doesn't look like 44-48 PSI to me
This is a hose clamped to the output before the rail
The pump/regulator are in tank
If this is all it can put out, is it a safe call that this fuel pump is tired?
Or should I wait until I can get new adapters and a gauge to test?