so many weights, so little time

[mkosem]

hmm, I'd love to switch back to mobil1 when I'm done with this interval of drive clean. But I'm really having second thoughts on what weight to use. I really don't run extended intervals with oil. I'm even thinkin a synthetic blend might be good. Here's what I'm considering, please consider the conditions of cold winter starts and posible impacts on fuel economy.

Mobil1 0w30
Mobil1 0w40
Mobil1 5/10w30
Mobil Drive Clean Blend 5/10w30

Any qualified reasons to/not to use any of the above?

--Matt

 

[mkosem]

oh, heh, I guess knowing I have a 1994 Saturn SL1 with 160,000 miles on it would help.

I've also seen Castrol GTX doing good things. Do I really need a synthetic oil to protect the engine well in 3-4k drain intervals? I plan to send off whatever oil I choose for analysis after than interval also. I've been using purolator pureone filters lately.

--Matt

 

[mkosem]

oh my, I also just remembered my local auto parts store is gonna be getting the new redline 5w40 in sometime within the next month or so. Redline is supposed to have an awesome antiwear package. Comments on that?

I have run Shell Rotella T 5w40 before so the 40wt is definitely not a problem with this engine. I wasn't really happy with that oil. It seemed to make my car run kind of rough once it had about 3500 miles on it which is prety premature for a "synthetic" oil. I'm not quite sure what to expect was the problem with that. Mobi1 5w30 was still running like the day I put it in after 5k miles.

--Matt

 

[Bio-T]

Some oils have a problem with their anti-foaming packages after a certain amount of miles. Usually about 2500 it starts to be more noticeable. You can experience this with Shell in some cases depending on the vehicle. They had a problem with their CG rated formula in the Rotella T. I thought it would have been cured in the SB formula, but may not have been. I weaned myself off of Shell Rotella T and have not tried the SB because of that experience.

If you are going to stick with the 40W oils try the Delvac 1300S, or you could order the Schaeffer's 7000 series at half the price of synthetic and get excellent results. At 3-4K drains, high cost oils will just be money down the drain IMO. At 160K it is all gravey now anyhow.

[ December 25, 2002, 02:38 PM: Message edited by: 59 Vetteman ]

 

[MolaKule]

Vetteman,

Yes, but just think of all of those waxy raffinates you're missing with the Group iii

!

 

[mkosem]

I'd love to try a schaefers oil. Is there some way it can be purchased in quantities less than $250? How well do you think the #701 or #703 would do in this engine?

--Matt

[ December 25, 2002, 02:42 PM: Message edited by: mkosem ]

 

[Patman]

Matt you can definitely purchase Schaeffer products in less than $250 orders. You just pay for shipping then, that's all. Even with the shipping charges it ends up still being a good value. Obviously the more you order the more you save though.

 

[jjbula]

My order (case of 12)of Schaeffer Blend from Tim Mills cost slightly less than $4.00/quart. That included shipping from Arkansas to Alabama.

 

[mkosem]

so schaefer's antiwear package is good?

--Matt

 

[Patman]

quote:

---

Originally posted by mkosem:
so schaefer's antiwear package is good?

--Matt

---

Definitely! Top notch! In addition to using a good 150-170ppm dose of moly, they use another additive called Penetro which works very well.

 

[mkosem]

I thought penetro was PTFE

--Matt

 

[Patman]

quote:

---

Originally posted by mkosem:
I thought penetro was PTFE

---

No, definitely not! Penetro is not a solid.

 

[BOBISTHEOILGUY]

quote:

---

Originally posted by mkosem:
I thought penetro was PTFE

--Matt

---

That is incorrect.

Penetro is a proprietary blend of additives/chemicals, that provide several functions. 2 important functions are as follows.

1- Another form of barrier additive, which is in addition to the already known zddp,moly,and antimony.

2- A surfactant. ok, what's this? Chemical additives like zddp and such do not just coat everywhere on a metal surface. the tendency is the additives may have some ionic attraction to itself which would in a sense "clump" or "stay" together. Kinda like a bead or drop of water would on a leaf. Now, with this surfactant, it will disperse the ionic tension that is normally attracting and holding itself together, thus allowing it to provide a more even, wider coverage area. A good example of this is like when watering a plant, drops of water sits on the leaf. If spraying a herbicide, the bugs can walk around the drops on the leaf never being affected. By adding a little surfactant, that bead or drop of water now will spread all across the leaf, making it near impossible for the bug to walk across the leaf without touching the herbicide.

 

[mkosem]

ok, I think I'm gonna get some schaefers oil. I'm probably gonna get a 5w30. Would the #701 Supreme 7000 5W-30 or the #100 Micron Moly 5W-30 be a better choice for me?

--Matt

 

[Patman]

quote:

---

Originally posted by mkosem:
ok, I think I'm gonna get some schaefers oil. I'm probably gonna get a 5w30. Would the #701 Supreme 7000 5W-30 or the #100 Micron Moly 5W-30 be a better choice for me?

--Matt

---

Depends on what drain intervals you want to use. If it's 3k, go with #100, if you want to go longer, go with #701. I personally think that the blend is the better choice simply because it's not much more $$$ but has better cold weather properties and the potential for longer drains.

 

[dropitby]

I too wish to try the #701 Blend. The salesman said that they don't use much synthetic oil because the oil doesn't breakdown as bad.

He also said their is no set amount of synthetic they have to put in the oil to call it synthetic. They should print it on the can 90% 100% or 10% or is he wrong.