So far would you agree?

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If you look at all the UOA's on this website so far, generally speaking, from 0 to 6k miles I don't think there is hardly any differnce between many oils in well running engines. Look at the variances we see in wear #'s and we see highs and lows with all oils depending on the condition of the engine.

I think it makes sense then to focus on other benefits of engine oils, that are over looked, such as Coefficient of friction, hot/cold temp. performance and how well the oil will keep an engine clean. Take performance cars. You could run Castrol GTX and Pennzoil and achieve similar wear to Mobil 1 and Amsoil in a hot running Vette or WRX. We've seen cheaper oils give better wear #'s then M1. However, after a good 5 or 6k miles of fairly hard driving, I'd think that the deposit control of the M1/Amsoil would be much better and the engine would be much cleaner. I'd also think that the transfer of engine heat would be much better with a good synthetic, which is true in many cases.

As I've mentioned before, my friend has lowerd his engine temps. by 15-20F using S2k Amsoil. So rather then getting hung up of 8ppm of Pb vs 3ppm, to me is not as important as these other aspects of oils. One of the main problems we see on here are dirty engines that need Rx. We don't see engines wearing out as far as I know. I don't really here to many people saying "my car died bc my engine wore out". Just a few updated thoughts.
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[ November 17, 2003, 09:10 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
That has been my main focus for some time. I have always said that while wear protection is important deposit control is more important. I want an oil that leaves very little of it's self behind!

Buster this is why I have been so keen on oils like Redline.
 
quote:

Originally posted by JohnBrowning:
That has been my main focus for some time. I have always said that while wear protection is important deposit control is more important. I want an oil that leaves very little of it's self behind!
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Ditto.
A clean engine (internal) is a happy one.
 
If a person changes oil every 3 months or 3000 miles with a high quality dino such as castrol gtx or chevron supreme why would the inside of the engine not be as clean as one that used amsoil or redline? Just hard to justify 8 dollars per quart sometimes. Just food for thought.
 
For your average grocery hauler I have to admit there is not that much varience between synths and dinos. Pennz has been putting up some pretty nice numbers...
 
quote:

That has been my main focus for some time. I have always said that while wear protection is important deposit control is more important. I want an oil that leaves very little of it's self behind!

Buster this is why I have been so keen on oils like Redline.

John, I'm starting to see why too. I agree with your thinking. I've slowed down my driving to slow consumption down. I was hitting 80mph at 3k rpms for 130 miles per day. My commute is now 70miles and I'm driving about 70mph. My car ONLY burns oil at very high speeds. My car is running very well with RL.
 
A clean engine, turbo protection, and not having to change my oil every 3k is why I use synthetic. I also don't have problems using group IIIs. Even though I don't like to call them synthetic, I think they pretty much offer the same cleanliness benefits. TooSlick sent me an SAE Technical Series paper written by a couple guys from Petro-Canada. They compare PAO's to Group III and find that there was virtually no difference in sludging (both had essentially zero sludging) but less varnishing with the group IIIs. But there was more cam wear with group IIIs. So pick your poison, although there's probably not enough of it to make any real difference for most of us.
 
buster my Camry turns 3050 RPM doing 80MPH in 5th gear. This OCI I have Redline in wich is the first OCI with synthetics and the first time Redline has been in the car. So far in 2000 miles it has used 1/4 of a quart according to my interpolation of the dipstick.

I am going to withhold any judgement until the end of the second OCI with Redline!
 
quote:

Originally posted by like a rock:
-*-*why would the inside of the engine not be as clean as one that used amsoil or redline? -*-*

In the Higher milages if you don't do flushes the dino will be dirtier in most cases. They all will varnish, ALL that I have seen and tried... it's just a matter of time. So do at 100K and others 300K and some look at 350K what regular oils look like at 18K
 
It is darker then I would have expected for 2000 miles! I can only assume that the first 4900 miles of conventional oil must have left some deposits behind. The oil was changed out 3 times the first 1000 miles. Then I left the conventional Chevron Supreme in until 4900 miles. I then put Redline 5W40 in.

THe temp is also about 40-50 degrees cooler then when I changed it.

My driveing style also changed. I used to drive it 1 hour to and from work for a total of 100 miles a day with about 50% of driveing being HWY. Now I only live 2 miles from the HWY and my drive is 15 minute for a total of 20 miles each way. My driveing is now 100% HWY but I am driveing a cold car at HWY speeds for 15minutes then shutting down. My office building is only about 3 football fields from the HWY so the engine has to perform cold!

I might need to use some Lube COntrol to keep solids and oxidation in check!
 
JB same as all other RL users on the first change even after RX has been used. Those RL esters must really get some cleaning going that's different than what RX does for sludge/contaminants etc. I know RL 5W30 went dark very quickly when I used it.
 
For me, I switched to syn because of temps here in AZ and the type of engine. '93 3VZ-E, city driving with A/C on when its *115F...I need any edge I can take as it doesn't get much worse than this.
 
JB, has consumption gone up so far with RL in the Camry? Mine has slowed down a bit. The problem I'm having is whether or not I should stay with RL. I like the way my car runs with it but I have two cases of ASL Amsoil to use. If I drive slower, at around 70--75mph, my car won't use as much oil and RL would be fine. However, if my car continues to burn through it, it makes no sense to use a $7 oil. The color so far is medium brown, which is what it normally is at this time.
 
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