Snowblower start up

[charbaby]

After a snowblower,(any snowblower), has been sitting since last winter, is it wise to pull the cord/recoil several times,(to help lubricate) before actually starting the engine with the electric starter? In my case, I have an 8 year old MTD with a 10 HP Tecumseh.

I once had a 1979 Toro with a 5 HP B&S that I used to do this and I really don't know if this does anything. I used to change the oil seasonally and the engine really blew alot of smoke after about 10 years and then finally lost power due to low compression.

I was just wondering if pulling the cord about 10 times prior to electric starting is the best thing?

 

[road_rascal]

I don't know if it makes a difference or not since it's a splash type lube system. I just use the electric starter and slow idle the engine a few minutes before throwing the throttle to the stops.

 

[daman]

It don't make a difference that won't help any,just fire
it up it'll be fine...

 

[charbaby]

Great news! I know that it's a splash/sling type lube system. I just thought that I was helping to lube internal parts a bit(prior to full starting), by pulling on the cord with out priming or putting on the choke lever.

Thanks
CB

 

[Slick 55]

Best thing to do is pull the spark plug before giving it several pulls.

 

[charbaby]

Brett,
I ask because I really don't know. But why pull the plug?

 

[dwendt44]

The engine will turn over much easier and faster with the recoil starter.
Been there done that.; don't know if you can spin the crank fast enough to throw oil around inside.

 

[Lex94]

I always tip the machine to let the oil flow into the cylinder. Grab the blade and nudge it back and forth a few times. Set it down, pull the cord slowly about 5 times fill with gas and let-er-rip.

Just a life-long habit.

 

[Bror Jace]

I used to put a teaspoon of Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) in the sparkplug hole at the end of each season and then pull it over a handful of times before replacing the plug. This, along with an oil change and a little Sta-Bil in the gas, was my end-of-season routine.

Haven't added oil through the spark plug hole in a while. Just never felt it did much ... and I'm concerned about plug fouling by the oil. These things are hard enough to start 6 months later.

 

[tmorris1]

These engines will run forever if maintained. Just pull the cord and start it without any worries.

 

[Drew]

I don't do any of that and my John Deere which was brand new in 1978 is still running strong. I have for the past 6 years been using 2 stroke fuel (40:1 mixture) because I am too lazy to keep two separate fuel containers for my lawn equipment. Belive it or not, the spark plug is original.

I just put 4 hours on it yesterday clearning 4 foot drifts from the recent blizzard we had in Colorado.

 

[Drew]

I don't do any of that and my John Deere which was brand new in 1978 is still running strong. I have for the past 6 years been using 2 stroke fuel (40:1 mixture) because I am too lazy to keep two separate fuel containers for my lawn equipment. Belive it or not, the spark plug is original.

I just put 4 hours on it yesterday clearning 4 foot drifts from the recent blizzard we had in Colorado.

 

[H2GURU]

Bror,
I have been doing the oil in the spark plug hole for 30 years now and it works quite well. I'm pretty sure I discovered this technique in the Tecumseh side of the Ariens Sno-Thro I bought in'77. Sure wish I bought an 8 HP instead of the 5HP 20" cut though. She always smokes blue for about 8-10 seconds and starts on 1st or 2nd pull every time. I have to believe that its worth the effort as I use it in all small engines. I spin it free (w/o plug)2 times to distribute the oil.

 

[Bror Jace]

Thanks H2GURU. I might just do that with both our snowblowers this year. I started both earlier this month ... just to get them running ... but so far, they haven't thrown a single flake. Looks like early November around here.

 

[H2GURU]

Same weather here with 10 day forecast showing perhaps 50s next week! When I store machines for season end I also completely run engine out of fuel. I realize that many do the STA-BIL in the fuel tank drill and everyone says it works fine, but, as I read on other lines, many do carbeurator rebuilds and leaving a fluid with the properties of gasoline in anything has got to take a toll on the rubber internals ?? I thought about adding a shut-off like newer machines have, but I think I'll stick with the tried and true.

 

[charbaby]

I used to drain the all of the fuel out including the carb and float bowl and leave them dry over the season. But I think that is worst for drying up seals as compared to fuel with STA-BIL beacuse, the STA-BIL is at least oily in it's texture even if it isn't a lubracant. Although I wouldn't leave the system full of only gasoline without STA-BIL.

 

[andyd]

I used to run my OPE empty prior to storage, Not any more, I stabilize the fuel and top off the tank, have pretty much eliminated having to rebuild the carb every spring. I think every small engine stored inside should have a shut off valve installed.