Sneak-peek @ Auto-RX PLUS cleaning after 1,400 mi

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Roughly 900 miles at the moment. I've decided not to pull the valve cover for a sneak peek and will wait until 3,000 miles at which point I will take a look and post the results. I will then give MMO a shot if Pennzoil Ultra will not deliver the sparkling results I'm looking for.

I figured to wait and give Ultra plenty of time to do it's magic. pulling the valve cover for a quick look just seems like a waste at this point.

Hopefully I'll have some more business trips coming up and can rack up the miles quickly.
 
It will be better waiting for 3000 miles. That will give the oil a chance to do some cleaning if it does do any.

Is the car running any better? How dark is the oil on the dipstick? If the oil turns very, very dark it might be a good idea just to change the oil filter.
 
How do you plan to use MMO if PU doesn't deliver ? Add MMO to current PU at 3k miles then continue for few thousands more miles ?

Instead of MMO I think you may want to try either Amsoil or Lubegard engine flush with reduce dosage: add 2-3 oz engine flush after checking the engine condition at 3k miles with PU, drive normal for 500-1000 miles then change the oil and check the engine at that time.

A 15 oz engine flush bottle can be used for 5-6 cleaning cycles at the last 1k mile before oil change.
 
Any engine oil will not bring magic on the surface look, that is what I have learned. Even the PU may help to keep clean better than typical oil, I also find the PU SM also causes more ping compared that M1. So my guess the PU burns off cleaner than M1
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rather than ends up as deposit.

Kreen definitely is great to strip off the oil residue. I add 4oz Kreen and drive 50 km before my last oil change, so when the new oil and oil filter installed and start my engine, I can hear the most disturbing noise from "unlubricated" engine for few seconds, which never happened when I just change the oil+oil filter without adding Kreen beforehand.
Of course as you have noticed for cleaning the surface, Kreen does not do much, even though you may feel the better compression/power from butt dino. However, nowadays I do not care much about the looks as long as the compression and lubrication getting better(quieter).
 
Originally Posted By: greenjp
Originally Posted By: Artem
Thoughts and or comments?

Areas that are splashed with oil occasionally don't get cleaned by chemicals in the oil. The fact that some of the products you've used are in fact effective (at times) doing things like cleaning piston rings, stopping seal leaks, generically improving engine smoothness, etc, suggests that pressure and friction are as important to the cleaning process as the chemicals themselves. That you're so easily able to remove the deposits with your screwdriver is further proof.


Exactly. The crud is in those locations specifically because oil doesn't get there much. So why would someone expect it to be cleaned with something in the oil?

The ARX site specifically says:

Quote:
Is a specially formulated, all-natural metal cleaner designed to thoroughly clean the internals of your engine.

Restores the vehicle to maximum efficiency.

Reduces oil consumption.

Reduces emissions because the piston ring is cleaned and the valves seal better.

Rejuvenates seals, resulting in reduced or eliminated oil leaks.

Eliminates the need for oil additives and solvent flushes.

Enables the motor oil to lubricate parts more effectively.

Saves turbo bearings by liquefying high-temperature carbon deposits.

Provides residual lubricity because the cleaned components
allow polar bonding of motor oil to components.

Uses oil as a carrier and liquefies all contaminants to prevent particulates from blocking the oil screen, oil pump, or piston port.

Is safe for turbo engines.


No where does it say it will make every spot in your engine like new clean. Valve cover pics (and there have been a lot on this site) are a false test.
 
^^ Wasn't the product given to Artem making the claim that it would clean that mess? Hoping to show up Kreen and the other products he tried? I'm just wondering if that was the case that's all.
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
How do you plan to use MMO if PU doesn't deliver ? Add MMO to current PU at 3k miles then continue for few thousands more miles ?

Instead of MMO I think you may want to try either Amsoil or Lubegard engine flush with reduce dosage: add 2-3 oz engine flush after checking the engine condition at 3k miles with PU, drive normal for 500-1000 miles then change the oil and check the engine at that time.

A 15 oz engine flush bottle can be used for 5-6 cleaning cycles at the last 1k mile before oil change.


I'm not interested in experimenting with a product while not using it as directed. Someone else can take on that challenge.

I'd be more then happy to finally change the front valve cover gasket (not that it's leaking after removing the valve cover a dozen times plus having over 140,000 miles on it) and seal the engine for another 70,000 miles of problem free operation. I wouldn't even clean the varnish / build up. I'd just leave it as is (we can all agree that it's harmless) and just drive the Camry until the wheels fall off.

I'm willing to test out a few more OTS cleaning products and call it a day. Either the products such, or the varnish / my engine is just one of those tough cases that are unclean-able with the average engine cleaner. I can live with that fact.
 
Originally Posted By: Artem
Originally Posted By: Mystic
Well, they were talking about hot spots in the engine causing the motor oil to coke. But another issue with some of these Toyota engines was a poorly designed PCV system. And poor instructions on when to service the PCV.

I think the PCV needs to be checked really well on this car.


The PCV valve / track is perfectly fine. The valve was replaced when I cleaned the intake manifold not too long ago.

The engine is perfectly fine and doesn't suffer from any heat issues. I don't see how I can upgrade the cooling system anyway, the thermostat controls engine cooling and I'm not about to start messing around with that.

The engine already has 30/70 coolant/water mix along with Redline's Water Wetter coolant additive, to help keep things cool.

YES THIS ENGINE IS A KNOWN SLUDGE ENGINE by design along with long OCIs but the block has never seen longer then 3-5k with Mobil 1 since day one.


You're doing everything right, then. Chemically cleaning this thing will take a miracle in a bottle. MAybe we'll find one yet, though
 
Originally Posted By: Tempest
Exactly. The crud is in those locations specifically because oil doesn't get there much. So why would someone expect it to be cleaned with something in the oil?


But when Kreen didn't clean it it was proof that the product didn't work.
Now the shoe is on the other foot and you guys cant handle it. Tough world isn't it.
lol.gif


Originally Posted By: Tempest
Valve cover pics (and there have been a lot on this site) are a false test

Than why did the owner provide free product in exchange for pictures?
Hmm maybe he forgot to mention only positive result pictures?
Lets not forget the confidentiality agreement. It was fine as long as results seemed positive but once the proof came in the stuff did nothing, he "broke" the confidentiality agreement.
crackmeup2.gif


You guys are a laugh a minute.
 
I don't know if anything would really clean this engine up. Perhaps only a physical cleaning would clean it up, and even then there might still be varnish left.

I am just waiting to see what the Pennzoil Ultra does, if it does anything. Who knows, and only time will tell, but maybe the Pennzoil Ultra will actually come through and do something.

Interesting that the engine still runs well. And what a contrast with his other engines in his other cars that look so good on the inside.
 
Originally Posted By: Mystic
I don't know if anything would really clean this engine up. Perhaps only a physical cleaning would clean it up,


It takes a lot more to clean a filthy engine than it does to keep an already clean engine that way.

This will not be an overnight process. If he sees ANY results with PU, my suggestion would be to stick with it in the long run and it will eventually clean it up.
 
The problem with PU is availability and price. Walmart drops it, Autozone may drops it, O'Reilly doesn't have it, Pep Boys has it at $9.xx/qt. Amazon has it at more than $7/qt.

It's possible that Pennzoil will drop it entirely.
 
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Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
The problem with PU is availability and price. Walmart drops it, Autozone may drops it, O'Reilly doesn't have it, Pep Boys has it at $9.xx/qt. Amazon has it at more than $7/qt.

It's possible that Pennzoil will drop it entirely.


If sopus drops the label I assume they will use the tech somewhere. I hope so anyways. And increase the availability in canada,since I've only seen it twice here. And it certainly wasn't clearances priced at 12 a quart
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
The problem with PU is availability and price. Walmart drops it, Autozone may drops it, O'Reilly doesn't have it, Pep Boys has it at $9.xx/qt. Amazon has it at more than $7/qt.

It's possible that Pennzoil will drop it entirely.


If sopus drops the label I assume they will use the tech somewhere. I hope so anyways. And increase the availability in canada,since I've only seen it twice here. And it certainly wasn't clearances priced at 12 a quart


If Ultra goes away I'd expect the next generation of PP, a huge seller, would be GTL with a price tag boost. They could easily stand toe to toe with M1 with such a product in both price and performance.
 
Originally Posted By: surfstar
Pennzoil Titanium - that's better than Platinum, right?

Or PU - Pennzoil Unobtanium


Never heard of Pennzoil Titanium, is it a good oil?
 
Originally Posted By: V8man
Originally Posted By: surfstar
Pennzoil Titanium - that's better than Platinum, right?

Or PU - Pennzoil Unobtanium


Never heard of Pennzoil Titanium, is it a good oil?


No... what you want is Unobtanium. I think Wal-Mart sold their entire supply out on the 1st of the month. Very hard to find now, hence the name.
 
If Pennzoil for whatever reason does not want to make Pennzoil Ultra available I suppose we can just use Mobil 1. Mobil 1 always seems to be available in my local Wal-Mart, sometimes on sale. And in Pennzoil's own testing Mobil 1 was in second place behind the top Pennzoil cleaning oils.

However, in this Toyota Camry of Artem's he did use Mobil 1 and it did not really seem to make a difference. On the other hand he used Mobil 1 and Amsoil in his other two cars and they look almost brand new inside judging from the photographs he supplied.

So my guess is Mobil 1 will make a difference as long as there are not design issues or mechanical problems in an engine. Use Mobil 1 from the time you buy a new car and you are probably good to go. Even in a used car if the engine is not too dirty use Mobil 1 and the engine will probably stay clean enough.

Of course, if Pennzoil Ultra does make a real difference in Artem's car it would be worth going out of a person's way to get some if you had a dirty engine.
 
Originally Posted By: TurboJim
Originally Posted By: V8man
Originally Posted By: surfstar
Pennzoil Titanium - that's better than Platinum, right?

Or PU - Pennzoil Unobtanium


Never heard of Pennzoil Titanium, is it a good oil?


No... what you want is Unobtanium. I think Wal-Mart sold their entire supply out on the 1st of the month. Very hard to find now, hence the name.


It flies off the shelves as soon as it's stocked. There are rumors of a Pennzoil Adamantium, based on synlube 4 life.
 
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