I believe the old owner forgot to even check the oil, never mind change it-it's one of the few pieces of OPE that starts on the first pull--everytime. When the battery went dead, I said why even replace it?
I believe it's more like the other way around. Simplicity Mfg. builds some machines for Snapper. Oh yes.. You can't beat how cool you look operating a rear engine rider. I used one of the hoop steering 'wheel' Snappers for a neighbor when I was a kid. I hated just about everything about that mower, but maybe they've come a long way since then. That was ~30yrs ago.
The snapper listed above goes for 1.2 - 1.5k around here.. brand new. I always liked our snappers over the front engine jobs. Seemed liked when they were bogging down the snappers just kept on going and going and going. Gpa's still has his first snapper which is over 40 maybe 50 years old and I'll eventually add to my fleet. But I'd never pay 12k for any rider give me a tractor!
Well.. mine isn't really a fair assessment! Like I say, I only used one Snapper RER. It was probably a 1970's model and had an obnoxiously loud and harsh 8hp on it. IIRC it was a Tecumseh. The three-quarters of an acre I mowed with it was rough and such a small machine exaggerates the roughness. Also, on damp spots, if you tried a full turn it would plow straight ahead regardless. If the rubber friction wheel drive system gets wet, you're going nowhere until it dries. I know owners have had good luck with them, but the only thing I'll tolerate a rubber friction wheel drive is on a snowblower. I just don't see the purpose of a tiny, single blade rear engine rider. IMO, if you don't need a 'rider', get a nice self propelled push mower. That, or take the same money you'd blow on a Snapper RER and get used commercial walk-behind, or one of these: http://dolphinope.stores.yahoo.net/piranhamowers.html
Thanks for the help, I guess you might be right that long ago alot of things could have changed by now.
I need a rider because I can't walk that much anymore ( lung problems )I need something for cutting up to a acre but usually less. A lawn tractor seems to be bulky up front and not good traction in the rear for some hilly areas.
What recomendations do you all have ?
The three-quarters of an acre I mowed with it was rough and such a small machine exaggerates the roughness. Also, on damp spots, if you tried a full turn it would plow straight ahead regardless. If the rubber friction wheel drive system gets wet, you're going nowhere until it dries.
I believe the machine you had was wore out. Sounds like gpa's snapper that he's had since the 60's. Turning wise sounds like you were trying to go to fast or the tires was wore out. Also sounds like the clutch was worn out as well never had a problem with the 4 or 5 I've used over the years.
To OP's question it all depends on the terrain and the amount of obstacles. If alot a zero-turn mower would serve you well. Otherwise I'd just find a used snapper but I'm biased. Don't know about the traction on front engine riders.
My grandfather has (where I'm at now) has a 12? I think year old troy bilt walk behind with a rubber wheel/metal pulley drive off the engine belt. It's worn out. I mowed his lawn yesterday. The grass was very tall. Those all together come together to equal pain in the arse. I can't imagine why ANY company would use that setup over a reliable gearbox setup. It's just ridiculous.
correct on the understeer of the Snapper--turn the wheel too hard and you are going------straight !
As for quality of grass cut, the Toro Recycler walk behind beats the Snapper hands down--no comparison