Single stage over base coat?

[JHZR2]

My Ram had a good scuff in the right door. I was able to find one Napa that mixed paint in cans...

I got some help and we fixed the damage at least to a 10ft job, and sprayed with base coat. It matches the degraded clear on the rest of the truck. Actually looks good match wise. I think if I spray 2k clear over top, it will stand out.

I gave read that basecoat without clear is no good. It will fail because of UV, it might be porous, etc. I don’t know what the truth is really...

But I’m wondering if it would be smart to get some single stage, maybe with some flattener in it, and coat over this basecoat? Would that help keep it sealed and/or more UV resistant? Or is this much ado about nothing?

thanks!

 

[#18FAN]

Basecoat alone will fail it needs to be cleared or gone over with single stage

 

[#18FAN]

Honestly just a hack job get a can from whomever of satin or semigloss clear made for exterior and overcoat.

 

[AutoMechanic]

Yeah from what I know on that is the base coat has to have something over it or it’s just going to fade and fail.

 

[JHZR2]

Honestly just a hack job get a can from whomever of satin or semigloss clear made for exterior and overcoat.

Yeah from what I know on that is the base coat has to have something over it or it’s just going to fade and fail.

Agree with both. NOT looking to leave base coat alone.

I have glossy 2k clear. My curiosity is if it can be topped with a single stage in the same paint color, possibly with some flattener. Otherwise it seems best bet is a flattened/satin clearcoat.

Not expecting perfection. It’s just that the gloss (or lack thereof) on the base coat alone looks well matched to the age of the clearcoat on the truck. The only thing I’d like to not have is an overly shiny spot where I just sprayed it doesn’t look like the rest of the truck.

 

[AutoMechanic]

Agree with both. NOT looking to leave base coat alone.

I have glossy 2k clear. My curiosity is if it can be topped with a single stage in the same paint color, possibly with some flattener. Otherwise it seems best bet is a flattened/satin clearcoat.

Not expecting perfection. It’s just that the gloss (or lack thereof) on the base coat alone looks well matched to the age of the clearcoat on the truck. The only thing I’d like to not have is an overly shiny spot where I just sprayed it doesn’t look like the rest of the truck.

Oh ok sorry we misunderstood. I’m not to sure on using the single stage. But the flattened or satin clear coat seems it would do good for that area.

 

[#18FAN]

Can you post with said can used do you know who's basecoat was used mfg. If single stage was available I believe they would have used it did they custom match or just use code. Its probably best basecoat was used and overcoat with clear is best bet.

 

[wpod]

An 400,000 mile pickup lets just call it patina and not worry about the booboo on the door..

 

[#18FAN]

For background I am involved in a mfg plant that does over a Million + spray cans yearly and mfg paint for every thing you can imagine for industrial touch up and bulk. I cant ever talk involvement because of confidential clauses.

 

[Trav]

You need a cold clear paint over that try this, it is available in matt or gloss. Mask off a larger area, buff it first with compound and scuff the surrounding area with a grey scuff pad then shoot the clear. Try to fan the outside of it with a lighter coat basically a fogging.
Scuff it down after 24 hrs and buff it.

Eastwood's 2K AeroSpray High-Gloss & Matte Clear

Two Component Technology in a Can for the Best Appearance and Durability

www.eastwood.com

Edit: Use one light coat, let it sit for 30 min then a med, leave it an hour and one more med coat. you want to keep the paint cold and from reacting to any incompatible paint that may be lurking underneath.

 

[JHZR2]

Can you post with said can used do you know who's basecoat was used mfg. If single stage was available I believe they would have used it did they custom match or just use code. Its probably best basecoat was used and overcoat with clear is best bet.

I bought the paint at NAPA. The Napa store had everything Martin Senour in there.

I was offered single stage or base/clear, so I picked the latter. I didn’t know what to expect, and didn’t realize how well the base would blend with the existing paint.

The OE paint was called “Driftwood Satin Metallic”. Emphasis on “satin”, I guess.

 

[JHZR2]

An 400,000 mile pickup lets just call it patina and not worry about the booboo on the door..

If it was just bad paint it’s one thing. Exposed metal that is rusty is a different story...

 

[JHZR2]

You need a cold clear paint over that try this, it is available in matt or gloss. Mask off a larger area, buff it first with compound and scuff the surrounding area with a grey scuff pad then shoot the clear. Try to fan the outside of it with a lighter coat basically a fogging.
Scuff it down after 24 hrs and buff it.

Eastwood's 2K AeroSpray High-Gloss & Matte Clear

Two Component Technology in a Can for the Best Appearance and Durability

www.eastwood.com

Edit: Use one light coat, let it sit for 30 min then a med, leave it an hour and one more med coat. you want to keep the paint cold and from reacting to any incompatible paint that may be lurking underneath.

Thanks! Napa let me swap the 2k gloss clear for 2k matte. I’ll apply per your recommendation tomorrow hopefully...