Sienna axle tripod reinstalled with bevel to wrong side on shaft

[timsch]

I replaced the inner axle boot on my 2008 Sienna today. These axles use a tripod rather than a CV joint on the inner section of the axle. The splined ID of the tripod had a slight chamber/bevel on the splines on one end that I assumed was to make the insertion of it onto the shaft easier. In looking in the manual for torque specs I saw a diagram showing that the bevel should have been facing the other direction. I assume that this was to have the bevel next to the retaining ring on the shaft so that if it were forced against the ring the bevel would force the ring down into the groove rather than have the ring pop out of the groove. The thing is, I don't recall the bevel being large enough to go over the OD of the retaining ring to actually do this.

Does anyone know why the bevel orientation on the tripod would be important?

 

[Trav]

You match mark the splines and tripod then install the tripod lining up the marks bevel side out. Some shafts use two snap rings one before and after the tripod, on these it usually doesn't matter which way it goes as long as the marks line up as the snap rings captures the tripod to prevent back and forth movement.

On the type you have it uses a slight taper to prevent the tripod going past a certain point on the shaft and the ring keeps it in place on the end, always flat side out on the ring rounded side towards the tripod. The tripod joint is a tight fit on the shaft and requires a brass drift and hammer to install.
The outer tripod housing should be match marked to the shaft also.

 

[timsch]

I pulled the tripod off of the shaft before any mark had been made, so I have no way of knowing whether it was installed with the same orientation as before. So, now I have a tripod with the bevel side facing in, and the tripod most likely rotated to some degree around the shaft from the original position. What problems might this cause? I didn't see the direction to match up marks on the tripod and shaft until I was looking in the manual for torque specs. I had a sinking feeling initially, but then the directions to match marks seemed to be general recommendations rather than something of critical importance in this assembly. The tripod looked uniform around the center, and the tripod went back into the housing fine with the splines on the shaft end going fine into the wheel.

Reading your post again, "always flat side out on the ring rounded side towards the tripod", this is the way that I have it installed, with the flat side of the tripod next to the ring. Tight fit, yes. I used my shop press. Hammer & drift wasn't going too well.

 

[Trav]

At this point there isn't much you can do about it, even if you pulled it all apart you have no idea where it went on the shaft. Match marking insures no vibration and all the rollers are in their same location in the housing.
It would probably have gone together a lot easier with the bevel in the correct location. I don't know what to tell you, run it and see how it last.
Match marking is not a general recommendation, when reusing old parts it insures parts that have worn together go back in the same place, not doing it will probably result in increased wear and a shorter lifespan.

 

[AutoMechanic]

What Trav said. Now pretty much you’ve got to drive with it to see what happens.

 

[timsch]

Too late for the rotational orientation, but not too late for the bevel. I could pull that apart if needed. The diagram you posted shows what seems to be a much greater bevel than what I recall seeing. I don't recall seeing anything other than a slight chamfer on the ID, which I thought was to make it easier to get it started on the shaft, which is why I now have the chamfer on the opposite side of the retaining ring.

Regarding using the press to get it on, I had to use a 3-jaw puller to get it off as a drift wasn't doing it that way either.

 

[Number_35]

View attachment 37241

Trav, thanks for posting the diagram - I was having trouble visualizing it.

 

[Trav]

Too late for the rotational orientation, but not too late for the bevel. I could pull that apart if needed. The diagram you posted shows what seems to be a much greater bevel than what I recall seeing. I don't recall seeing anything other than a slight chamfer on the ID, which I thought was to make it easier to get it started on the shaft, which is why I now have the chamfer on the opposite side of the retaining ring.

Regarding using the press to get it on, I had to use a 3-jaw puller to get it off as a drift wasn't doing it that way either.

Sure you could do that and it might not be the worst idea if you want to do the work. I press them off but a 3 jaw will work fine as you found out, to install I use a 30mm 12 point deep impact socket and a dead blow with the other end of the shaft on a block of wood (outer joint removed of course), it goes on easy enough and much quicker than setting up in the press.

Is this a bolt on flange or spines going into the transmission? Did you use the seal protector when installing the splines and what grease did you use?

 

[timsch]

I appreciate your sticking with me on this, Trav.

There is no flange where it goes into the transmission, so just splines. I did not pull that out, though. I just separated the axle at the tripod joint and left the inner part installed in the transmission. Other than the tripod orientation issue, rebooting this way was pretty easy. Even getting it back together wasn't bad.

 

[Trav]

Yes a lot of guys do it that way and it works fine as long as the rollers use a clip to prevent them from falling off with needles all over the place, some don't and its risky. What grease are you using, on these types I have been using Schaeffer's 219 NLGI #1 with good results.

 

[timsch]

I had planed on slipping the tripod out of the housing. With a torn boot, the tripod pulled out of the housing very easily. Supposedly you use a slide hammer puller to get the axle out of the transmission, but with nothing firm holding the tripod in the housing, I don't know how that is supposed to work, especially if the carrier bearing is corroded to the axle. Do you know how it's done?

I ordered an OEM boot kit for this axle that came with grease. I didn't know how much to put in. One and a half of these pouches seemed about right. I hope so. If not, I can cut the band clamp and add some more.

 

[AutoMechanic]

I had planed on slipping the tripod out of the housing. With a torn boot, the tripod pulled out of the housing very easily. Supposedly you use a slide hammer puller to get the axle out of the transmission, but with nothing firm holding the tripod in the housing, I don't know how that is supposed to work, especially if the carrier bearing is corroded to the axle. Do you know how it's done?

I ordered an OEM boot kit for this axle that came with grease. I didn't know how much to put in. One and a half of these pouches seemed about right. I hope so. If not, I can cut the band clamp and add some more.

I usually used the whole pack 1/2 for each boot. But I think with 1 1/2 you should be ok.

 

[AutoMechanic]

If the carrier bearing is corroded I’ve used heat to get it out. I’ve also used a hydraulic press to press it out.

 

[Trav]

I had planed on slipping the tripod out of the housing. With a torn boot, the tripod pulled out of the housing very easily. Supposedly you use a slide hammer puller to get the axle out of the transmission, but with nothing firm holding the tripod in the housing, I don't know how that is supposed to work, especially if the carrier bearing is corroded to the axle. Do you know how it's done?

I ordered an OEM boot kit for this axle that came with grease. I didn't know how much to put in. One and a half of these pouches seemed about right. I hope so. If not, I can cut the band clamp and add some more.

 

[timsch]

Two full pouches would have been at the maximum. Weighing what I had left in the 2nd pouch, I put in about 83 grams, so I have a little less than 90% of the minimum. I'm definitely a day late and a dollar short on several counts with this job. This is a big RTFM reminder for me....

 

[The Critic]

I have done a few where I may not have marked the orientation. Never had an issue, but not saying it is the right thing to do.
My guess is that under normal driving conditions, the current setup is probably ok, but if the axle was "extended," there is a greater risk of it coming apart.

Regardless, you usually need to use a 3-jaw to remove the tripod from the shaft and either a socket or brass drift to reinstall the tripod. I use the full amount of the grease that comes in the Toyota boot kit.

If the carrier bearing is corroded, at least by CA standards, I have had 100% success with using a round/flat air hammer bit (with an air hammer) to shock the carrier bearing while having someone simultaneously pry the axle.

 

[timsch]

Thanks, everyone, for the help.

 

[Trav]

Whats the plan?

 

[timsch]

I'm going to get some new clamps, pull it back off, check the bevel orientation, and put it back on with the proper amount of grease. Getting the clamps will be the delay. None of the dealers have them in stock, and the local parts stores closed before I got to them yesterday.

 

[Trav]

Sounds good, let us know how it turns out.