Sick of consuming synthetic oil, thinking about switching back.

Not open for further replies.
Dec 26, 2002
I'm sure this topic had to have been covered before, but I don't have time to go back and search the archives (so maybe you guys can help me) I drive a 1993 Honda Prelude VTEC, and it is very common in the Prelude community for people that run synthetic, to consume a lot of oil. On average we are adding a quart every 1-2 weeks. Now this adds up when the majority of us are running Mobil-1. I find myself running low on oil more times than not, so I think I would be better off switching back to regular motor oil. I know it isn't good to be switching back and forth from synthetic to regular, etc. but my question is, is it THAT bad to do it? will I be ok if I switch to regular motor oil and just keep it at that for the rest of my car's life? will any of my rubber seals going to go bad? Every prelude owner i know that runs regular motor oil has no problem at all with losing oil... all comments are welcome, thanks guys. Ben
How about trying out Mobil's Delvac 1 5w40? Someone here with a Prelude mentioned it stopped their oil consumption almost completely.
How about doing a 1,000-1,500 mile OCI with Auto-RX (in conventional oil) to help recondition the seals and/or clean the piston rings? I'd be curious how oil consumption with synthetic was after this treatment, but understand your point, and wouldn't blame you for staying with conventional oil afterward. At 135K miles, I was starting to use some oil between OCIs on my Ford Taurus (3.0l Vulcan V-6), despite all but the first 17K miles being on mostly M1 (there was one case of Amsoil in there somewhere towards the end). I did an Auto-RX treatment (twice - once with M1, then learned it should be done with conventional, so I did a second with Castrol GTX). I went back to M1 (5W30), and at 3,000 miles the oil is still right at the F mark on the dipstick - oil consumption cured! I didn't notice any seal leakage, and with consistent synthetic use, I doubt the piston ring pack was coked up. The oil was going somewhere, though. The Auto-RX did something, somewhere, to clean up the engine (in the last 30K miles, the oil level was starting to drop AND the oil was turning darker and darker between oil changes). As I said, oil is right at the F mark, and there is no discernable discoloration to the oil. At the dipstick, you can't tell the oil has 3,000 miles on it. HTH, - Arved
1 quart every fortnight? Thats crazy. I woulda thought the engine was almost completely stuffed at that oil consumption rate... I'd just get a premium dino like Pennzoil or Chevron and stick with that. Try go for a xx-40 weight. That will help things.
I have used 15W-40 truck oil in oil burners in the past, and it helps reduce consumption. In this area (Richmond, VA) you can run it year round, but in IL, maybe run 10W-30 in the winter. I have been thinking about switching back to dino also, and from what I can tell from this site, Chevron Supreme (at Wally World) is about the best oil for your money at $1.08 per quart. Hope this helps. [Cheers!]
There is no problem switching between synth and dino. Try a quality dino or blend (Chevron Supreme, Havoline, GTX, Schaeffers 701/700) and see what happens. Someone mentioned a short interval flush with AutoRX and a dino....sounds like a good idea too. Mikep
What weight of M1 are you running...if its 5/10/W30, try something thicker. 0W40 M1 or GC 0W30 would be a good starting point. Maybe 15W50 if oil consumption continues... Or, simply switch to a good conventional, and accept the fact that your car uses oil. PS - How does it run? Have you done a leak down test? Or shampoo the engine and see if you can find an obvious leak... PSS - When I drive my Integra REAL!!! hard, oil consumption goes up dramatically... Good luck...
haha, i'm finally out of lurk mode! (took me a minute to figure out my pass word too) anyway, i am interested in the Mobil's Delvac 1 5w40 oil, are there any disadvantages to running with it? i am currently using Mobil-1 10w30 (for someone who asked which weight) also, this might be a stupid question, but what is an OIC? It might be hard to believe that Hondas consume synthetic oil faster than regular oil, but you can ask any Honda owner and you'll get your answer. It IS true. what else, what else, I DO drive my car hard all of the time, and during this time of the season I only take it out to drag race or autoX, so pretty much after this weekend's races, I don't think it will see the streets until spring. so the problem doesn't really need to be resolved this instant, I've just been pushed past the point where I had to make the decision now. so if you guys could clear up the seal conditioning thing, and the OIC thing, and any more comments you would like to add, I appreciate it. Ben
Ben [Welcome!] to the light of BITOG. GODBLESS BOB ! For that Vtec that you say you race periodically, change the oil to say a Chevron 10w-30 or really any SL rated 10w-30 and use a bottle of RX to clean that dude up. It may take a second treatment so don't be surpised. After at least one RX treat, switch to Redline 10w-30 and check consumption. If it still exists add 2 ounces per qt of LC to the Redline and that will ensure the protection your need for slinging that engine lateraly in the auto-Xing and the base oils of RL will resist the VTEC blowby. I do suggest Fuel power to clean up the upper engine and help stop the VTEC inspired blowby there too. There are a few guys that are analysis customers here on BITOG that have used this regime to extend drains and stop or radically slow oil consumption. If raced that engine needs Syn for long term durability IMHO. Periodic Auto-RX cleaning will help alot. In this case every 15,000 miles. If you just want to switch to a blend or non syn, Schaeffers 5w-30 in that engine with the LC is hard to beat. Remember this basic tenet ; No motor oil will keep your ring pack or seals clean like Auto-RX ! Syn or not. Terry [ November 13, 2003, 03:54 PM: Message edited by: Terry ]
Hi Terry, My oil analysis on the Integra is coming up so keep an eye on the results coming your way soon! [Smile] [Off Topic!] This will be third so the results will be interesting. I have a question regarding your tenet of:
Remember this basic tenet ; No motor oil will keep your ring pack or seals clean like Auto-RX ! Syn or not.
Is this true even for Redline and its superior ester cleaning base power? Also, considering early introduction of the oil - 10K miles - to the motor, this should keep it just as clean as a AutoX treatment would, no? [I dont know]
Even Redline will over time allow buildup albeit less than many other oils. The periodic Auto-RX cleaning has been found to help even Redline lubed cars. Remember the oil can clean or lubricate and if you ask it to focus on one area the other suffers. Look forward to seeing the Acura analysis results, thanks. Terry
Another option would be to go with one of the high mileage 5w30 oils out there, which are generally at the top end of the 30wt range, and should help lessen consumption, while not costing as much as a full synthetic. PS, I just noticed this was your first post after registering here in Dec 2002! It's about time you came out of lurk mode Ben! [Big Grin] [ November 13, 2003, 12:02 PM: Message edited by: Patman ]
But how well does AutoRX work WITH Red Line? Does it let it clean as thoroughly? It sounded like "slider" used it w/RL in the Sienna but never was verified.
>>>It might be hard to believe that Hondas consume synthetic oil faster than regular oil, but you can ask any Honda owner and you'll get your answer. It IS true. It must be true. Friend of mine, doing courier runs in the DC area, found that byt he time he got 300,000 on his Honda, he was starting to use a quart of oil every 1500-2000 miles. And he got new car fever and turned it in after 12 oil changes!
Hmmm... 12 oil changes in 300,000 miles (25,000 mile intervals for the math challenged), and the car was consuming a quart every 1,500 - 2,000 miles. Atrocious! Yep - it had to be from using synthetic - there's no other explanation... Thanks, I needed the laugh! [Cheers!]
I have an older car that was starting to use M1 10w30 at a pretty good rate. I think it was less the fact it was synthetic, and more the fact it was an oil that was near a 20w. I switched to M1 0w40 and it seems the to be much better.
Not open for further replies.