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Just bought another Ford Ranger 1987 4x4 2.9 5 spd. Do believe that the previous owner was not as anal as me about oil changes and maintenance. My question is should I use Rotella to clean out some possible sludge,or MM) ,or Rislone. Not interested in Auto RX for now. I am open for any other tips this site provides. Thanks
 
You could run Amsoil SSO or Redline for one change and this will do a good cleaning as these oils are known for cleaning up residues.

You could also use some MMO in the oil, some members here swear by it, but I haven't used it.
 
PP claims 46% of residual deposits cleaned out with first change...

FWIT, I don't use or believe in additives. JMO.
 
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Additives do clean out stuff... Like your wallet!
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The only one I would stand behind is ARX but it's a mixed bag on here!
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From personal experience, Redline did nothing for me. Why not try remove the oil pan and valve cover and verify that the engine is or is not relatively clean?
 
One thing you might consider doing is a short OCI with your favorite oil then just change the oil like you normally would. Sometimes busting gunk loose to fast will clog oil passages and the oil pickup tube.

I have had good luck with MMO in the past for cleaning up engines with varnish in them.
 
Originally Posted By: RangerJ
Just bought another Ford Ranger 1987 4x4 2.9 5 spd. Do believe that the previous owner was not as anal as me about oil changes and maintenance. My question is should I use Rotella to clean out some possible sludge,or MM) ,or Rislone. Not interested in Auto RX for now. I am open for any other tips this site provides. Thanks


Not interested in A-RX, give MMO a shot, it will clean things up.
 
MMO or Seafoam will do the job for you. Seafoam will take about 200-500 miles depending on how bad it is and MMO will take about 700-1000 to do it.
 
Plain oil (dino, syn, super duper new deal this or that) is not going to 'clean' anything. Oils claiming to clean existing deposits and varnish is pure marketing. Auto Rx may work and most solvents will work but possible do too much too fast.

Make sure you really need this before you start messing with it. If you are sludged then I would approach this on a slow basis. If you do it just because you want to then I would use seafoam or MMO like stated in a earlier post.
 
Originally Posted By: milwaukee
Plain oil (dino, syn, super duper new deal this or that) is not going to 'clean' anything.


Why?
 
I am using MMO. The first two oil changes, I only did 1000 miles each. Took out some sludge, and made my car a bit more responsive.
Originally Posted By: StevieC
You could run Amsoil SSO or Redline for one change and this will do a good cleaning as these oils are known for cleaning up residues.

You could also use some MMO in the oil, some members here swear by it, but I haven't used it.
 
Originally Posted By: JT1
Originally Posted By: milwaukee
Plain oil (dino, syn, super duper new deal this or that) is not going to 'clean' anything.


Why?


huh....because it won't.
 
I've been using MMO for as long as I can remember, in gas and oil. I put some in for every dino oil change in my Silverado.

Has anyone done any research about the properties of MMO?

The only thing I have found is this:
The viscosity of Marvel Mystery Oil is approximately a straight 5W oil. Therefore, mixing it with a 5W30 oil will not appreciably change the viscosity of the motor oil. It will only slightly lower the viscosity of the 10W30 oil. Therefore, you can continue to use the 5W30 in the winter and the 10W30 in the summer.

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