should i switch to a synthetic blend?

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I've been eying this site for a while now- and it's interesting to say the least. alot of smart people here who live breath and eat oil.
Anywho- my question.

I live in Atlanta Georgia- the temps here can get very hot- usually around 90 this time of year, the winters aren't all that bad. I drive a 1997 VW jetta 2.0 liter

I don't want to use a fully synthetic oil, because i don't think it's worth the money for my application, and i don't want to risk a leak.

What i was thinking about was switching to a blend- more specifically Castrol Syntec Blend. Is this a good choice? how much more will the blend reduce friction over the regular conventional oil that i currently use? and will i notice even a little better gas mileage? And are all syntec blends the same? for example- Valvoline blend vs castrol blend- which is better? or should i get the cheaper one? Also Motorcraft sells FULLY synthetic oil for 2 dollars- thats just crazy. whats wrong with it?
-thanks for replys
 
quote:

Originally posted by jonblitz:
...is this true about full synthetics (leak?...

I'm not convinced it is, though opinions vary. All full synthetics, whether Group III or Group IV based, also contain esters (Group V) for enhanced lubricity AND seal swell/softening to control leaking that would otherwise occur in the absence of polycyclic aromatic solvent-like molecules common in motor oils containing Group I solvent dewaxed base oil stocks.
 
so there are absolutely no pros to using a synthetic blend over a conventional? if this is true im going to use MC5000 or castrol GTX my next change.
 
I'm running Castrol Syntec Blend right now in my 05 Matrix and it really seems to be a nice match. MPG numbers up. I usually run a different brand every OC so I really can't comment on advanatges etc over dino. My car has seen every thing from M1 to Pennz Plat to Chevron dino and then some. If you are going to use GTX make sure you get it on sale somewhere...the Blend isn't all that much more expensive if you pay full price for the GTX.

How long of an interval do you change your oil at? 3k? 5k? 7.5k? That may have some bearing in your decision


Goose
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If you want to go syn without leaks you nmight look at 5-40 Shell Rotella T syn at walmart for around 3.50 a qt . If you want to use syn without leaks you could ARX the motor to give you the best chance of no leaks . see the additives section. You don't say whether you have a turbo so I assume no.

Another option like the shell HDEO rotella is to mix your own with delo and chevron or havoline to whatever viscosity you want. Given the maintenance you describe I'd ARX or use Hdeo and more frequent changes.
 
Yes; i am kiefer S from 24. I use Havoline 20w50 on the fleets expedition & suburban strictly because it is made here in the u.s. I use arab blood for a fuel additive and if you have a problem with that- ill make you pay...as soon as I escape a chinese prison.

But seriously
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- I change my oil every 3k- no less no more- ive only done two changes on this car: the first midas did it- they used havoline, the second I did and i used Valvoline. Both 10w30. VW is extremely picky on oil- It didn't like havoline at all- it seems happy with valvoline. Enthusiasts tell me that this engine appreciates castrol over any other brand. So- i was going to use castrol Syntec Blend or mobil clean 7500. if i use dino again- im thinking of using mobil clean 5k
 
I'm aiming oils to cover what maintenance was done on the first 70- 100K on this car. Did you get maintenance records when you bought it?
 
The car has 82k on it. The guy got it used at 40k, he had it waranteed for 30k, so he had to do the changes every 3k at the dealer to uphold the warranty, he sold the car to me at 76k and the oil was in bad condition-and alot of it had been burnd off. i took off the valve cover to replace a gasket last night- the internals looked good.
 
KieferS,

I'd suggest Delo 400, 15w-40 if you're looking for a good year round oil for a hot climate. It meets the high temp, high shear viscosity requirements of Vw/Audi and it will hold up very well in this engine. Before synthetics became popular in Europe, SAE 15w-40 was the oil of choice for most vehicles, even in fairly cold weather.

I'd recommend 5000 change intervals, which should be conservative.
 
I was trying to use the lowest viscosity oil i possibly can. 10w30 gives me no problems, the oil doesn't burn at all and i get 'eh' gas mileage. I guess the only way you can figure out whats best for you is if YOU go out and do it. so what i'll do is try castrol syntec, mobil clean 5k, valvolines blend and see which one she preferes.
 
If you want to try a synthetic blend, I'd look for one that meets the CF spec in addition to SL or SM. This would indicate the oil has higher detergency and will help keep the engine deposits down.

If it meets ACEA A1/B1 or A5/B5 so much the better....

TS
 
just run any good dino for 4-5k and you'll be fine in your car.

My sister in law is driving my old 1986 VW jetta and it's close to 300k! All it's ever seen is a good dino (conventional oil) and fram filters (there are better filters out there for a better price) every 4-5k or 6mo.

The Jetta runs great, still passes CA Smog and is getting great MPG.
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With my 2005 Toyota, I've run Blends, Full Syn and dinos and run UOAs on every one.

I see no reason to run a Syn and mostly run Castrol Syn Blend or GTX. When I run out of that in my stash, I'll go to what ever I have like Chevron or Pennzoil. MY MPG is excellent and the UOAs are great with these oils.

Take care, bill
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Alright than- im convinced- i'll run castrol syn blend my next change. Has to be better than any other dino out there- and they recomend changing it at 7500 (although i won't)- so it has to be that much better. what have i got to loose but an extra 40 cents a quart
 
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