My car is 02 Civic LX A/T with 40k on it. Manual says i should change spurk plugs at 120 000 miles. So my question is: Should I still pull them out to check them to see their condition or just leave them alone? Thank You.
Should I check my spurk plugs?
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Should I also change wires along with spark plugs? If so. Why?
Well I would change the plugs only because I just had to replace one of mine because it was cracked and not making good contact. After that my truck is running better than it has in a LONG time. I replaced those wires 4 yrs ago. So it must have been loosing performance slowly for a long time. Hope this helps. I also live in Florida so the heat I'm sure affected the wires.
I would check them at ~ 60,000 miles (manufactures 1/2 life) and inspect the ignition wires at the same time. Of course if it is running poorly do it now. JMW. Ed
(spark plugs) Pull them, check them and then re-install them.
These factory plugs are double platinums on 7th gen civics and unless you are willing to pay extra to get replacements, otherwise, I would squeeze all the mileage out of them before rolling them with some single platinums.
The even more interesting thing is that Honda has recently switched to iridiums on my fit (it begins with something like "IZFRxxxx") and for that I don't even have to bother with regularly taking out my spark plugs or replace them on a regular basis anymore. Just take them out every 2 yrs to prevent them from seizing/cross-threading, inspect them and then torque them back to specs.
Eddie-
7th gen civics (00~05) come with high tension coils on top of each and every spark plugs so no spark plug wires to replace/to speak of.
Q.
These factory plugs are double platinums on 7th gen civics and unless you are willing to pay extra to get replacements, otherwise, I would squeeze all the mileage out of them before rolling them with some single platinums.
The even more interesting thing is that Honda has recently switched to iridiums on my fit (it begins with something like "IZFRxxxx") and for that I don't even have to bother with regularly taking out my spark plugs or replace them on a regular basis anymore. Just take them out every 2 yrs to prevent them from seizing/cross-threading, inspect them and then torque them back to specs.
Eddie-
7th gen civics (00~05) come with high tension coils on top of each and every spark plugs so no spark plug wires to replace/to speak of.
Q.
I noticed no difference between my old 12+ year old wires and my new blue NGK wires. Personally I don't think it's that important to change them unless they're resisting too much, or worn and corroded. My
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I bought a brand new car and since the day one had starting problem. Ii would crank a little every time, regardless of temperature. Took it to the shop twice - no help. What that could possibly be? Spurk plugs maybe? Battery is fine BTW, I just checked. Thanks!
HOw many revolutions you are talking about?
My fit takes 3 rotations to start up since day 1 and so does my dad's civic (roughly 2 revolutions when new, about slightly over 3 rota after 128,000kms clocked) and I would consider this to be normal.
If your civic takes more than 6 rotations to catch on, you have a problem and shall bring it back to the stealerships. Otherwise, 3 rotas is considered normal.
(My 16+yr old Mazda B6 block took 1.5rota to fire up all these years.....)
The only last thing I can think of is that for gen 7 civics there was a TSB for fuel pump so try looking at that direction to see if it's fuel pump pressure related. low fual line pressure would cause excessive cranking also.
Q.
My fit takes 3 rotations to start up since day 1 and so does my dad's civic (roughly 2 revolutions when new, about slightly over 3 rota after 128,000kms clocked) and I would consider this to be normal.
If your civic takes more than 6 rotations to catch on, you have a problem and shall bring it back to the stealerships. Otherwise, 3 rotas is considered normal.
(My 16+yr old Mazda B6 block took 1.5rota to fire up all these years.....)
The only last thing I can think of is that for gen 7 civics there was a TSB for fuel pump so try looking at that direction to see if it's fuel pump pressure related. low fual line pressure would cause excessive cranking also.
Q.
Well I still went ahead and checked my spurk plugs. I bought spurk plug socket afterall
Boy was that spurk plug socket cheap! Only a buck for 16mm at AAP. I heard they acctually pretty expensive and was pleasantly surprised!
I also had to get 1/2 to 3/8 adapter for the torque wrench. No worries, Lowe's is only 1 minute drive away, heh. I have this Hayens manual that has bunch of colored pics of spark plugs conditions so you can compare them to your own and see if yours are ok or not. Mine seemed to be ok though they did look kinda too white. I still think it's all right so i put them back and torqued them. No big deal, but it gives me piece of mind and i will know what to do for next time so it will be easier. Thanks for the answers everybody!
Boy was that spurk plug socket cheap! Only a buck for 16mm at AAP. I heard they acctually pretty expensive and was pleasantly surprised!I also had to get 1/2 to 3/8 adapter for the torque wrench. No worries, Lowe's is only 1 minute drive away, heh. I have this Hayens manual that has bunch of colored pics of spark plugs conditions so you can compare them to your own and see if yours are ok or not. Mine seemed to be ok though they did look kinda too white. I still think it's all right so i put them back and torqued them. No big deal, but it gives me piece of mind and i will know what to do for next time so it will be easier. Thanks for the answers everybody!
The upside to checking plat plugs early is they won't
tear aluminum by leaving them in and you can see performance problem or coolant leaks.
The downside to checking plugs early is the wires get cooked so the more times you have to touch them, the more likely they'll fail or break.
tear aluminum by leaving them in and you can see performance problem or coolant leaks.
The downside to checking plugs early is the wires get cooked so the more times you have to touch them, the more likely they'll fail or break.
I don't really know what "wires get cooked" means?
Again the new Civics don't have spark plug wires. They have coils.
BTW in most new Honda cars you can pretty much forget about ignition system problems. Wires, distributors, etc have been eliminated so all thats left is a coil and a plug. Coils do fail on rare occasions but I have never seen an NGK Honda OEM plug fail. And yes, most of the plugs will last over 100K without a problem.
If you want to keep your Honda running well, focus on factory recommended fluid changes. Other than that, there just isn't a whole lot of maintenance items on the newer cars.
If you want to keep your Honda running well, focus on factory recommended fluid changes. Other than that, there just isn't a whole lot of maintenance items on the newer cars.
What about fuel filter and PCV valve? Should I change it?
Fuel filter is in-tank and it would cost you quite a bit to service/replace. Check with your dealer RE: fuel filter replacement intervals.
PCV valve is a 35CAD item, located behind the timing belt cover under the intake manifold. It requires 17mm wrench to undo.
Q.
p.s. according to my owner's manual, 7th gen civic (CA version) timing belt service interval is 170,000kms (that's right, 170kkms)
PCV valve is a 35CAD item, located behind the timing belt cover under the intake manifold. It requires 17mm wrench to undo.
Q.
p.s. according to my owner's manual, 7th gen civic (CA version) timing belt service interval is 170,000kms (that's right, 170kkms)
Forgot to mention air and cabin filters. Those need to be changed every 30K.
I have never seen a Honda PCV valve fail or cause problems. Even on cars with 200K. In all my years of working on Hondas, I have never even replaced a PCV valve. Most of the new cars have an internal type PCV valve anyway, not like the old ones with a vacuum hose that plugged into a rubber grommmet.
I have never seen a Honda PCV valve fail or cause problems. Even on cars with 200K. In all my years of working on Hondas, I have never even replaced a PCV valve. Most of the new cars have an internal type PCV valve anyway, not like the old ones with a vacuum hose that plugged into a rubber grommmet.
According to Haynes manual fuel filter can be reached from the hood and there is pictures too.
Acuratech: thanks for advise. I know about cabin and air filters and already replaced those because it's easy. It's those tricky to replace items that's not mentioned in the manual I'm concerned with. That's why all the questions.
You could be one of the few lucky ones D17A that has both the inline fuel filter under the hood and a pre-filter in-tank.
Plse check to ensure that you do have an inline filter under the hood. Otherwise, it would be the in-tank fuel filter that you have to worry about.
Changing the inline filter under the hood is a breeze.
Plse check to ensure that you do have an inline filter under the hood. Otherwise, it would be the in-tank fuel filter that you have to worry about.
Changing the inline filter under the hood is a breeze.
Yank the plugs so that you will be able to get them out later. They will be very hard to remove otherwise.
You probably won't need top replace them, but if you do, you will not lose much $, and it will be done right.
Also, you can visually see any differences between the cylinders.
You probably won't need top replace them, but if you do, you will not lose much $, and it will be done right.
Also, you can visually see any differences between the cylinders.
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