Should I change the oil?

Originally Posted by ToadU
It amazes and entertains me all of the craziness I see on here.
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At best most of the extreme procedures people invent and convince themselves are necessary and somehow beneficial and most of the additives people choose to use are a waste of time, money and resources. At worst they are harmful to their vehicles.

A 3k oil change interval boggles my mind. It's so unnecessary on so many levels. I would literally take your oil at 3k miles and put into any of my vehicles and continue to run it. I'd have no problem with it going into my wife's Range Rover.

The amount of wives tales and urban legends is truly unbelievable to me.


Crazy?....... hahaha.

Two very expensive items show-up in our adult lives.
1) Owning a home
2) Owning a new vehicle

Smart owners take care of these two, to the best of their abilities..... that also includes keeping them clean.
Crazy owners may not resort to this plan.
I am done with this thread. Cannot reach some people......
 
Well, you're certainly entitled to your opinion. Doesn't jive with mine though.
 
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Crazy?....... hahaha.

Two very expensive items show-up in our adult lives.
1) Owning a home
2) Owning a new vehicle

Smart owners take care of these two, to the best of their abilities..... that also includes keeping them clean.
Crazy owners may not resort to this plan.
I am done with this thread. Cannot reach some people......

Promise? People often say that in threads but don't actually follow through.
 
Originally Posted by JMJNet
You need to check why the serpentine belt gave out other than it is old belt or subpar quality belt.

May be, something wrap around by the belt has a bad pulley.
Water Pump pulley, alternator pulley, P/S pulley, Crank Pulley, AC Compressor pulley/clutch, etc.
If it overheats, may be the water pump pulley or impeller is/are bad.

Belt breakage usually is not caused by bad oil. LOL!!


Shop said all the pulleys/tensioner were good to go, spun freely, not wobbly/loose. Don't know if it was just installed improperly, wrong belt, or just a freak breakage. Unless it happens again, probably won't ever know.
 
Yes , I would change oil / filter . Depending . I try not to run dino oil over 3000 miles and synthetic over 5000 miles .

No , you did not damage the oil / filter .
 
Originally Posted by ToadU
It amazes and entertains me all of the craziness I see on here.
36.gif


At best most of the extreme procedures people invent and convince themselves are necessary and somehow beneficial and most of the additives people choose to use are a waste of time, money and resources. At worst they are harmful to their vehicles.

A 3k oil change interval boggles my mind. It's so unnecessary on so many levels. I would literally take your oil at 3k miles and put into any of my vehicles and continue to run it. I'd have no problem with it going into my wife's Range Rover.

The amount of wives tales and urban legends is truly unbelievable to me.


Many engines are known to have serious issues with longer than 3K OCI. You claim to be a like Saab but you cant have owned or worked on many of them, go long OCI on some of these and you need an engine in short order. Ditto VW 1.8T, Chrysler 2.7, Toyota 3.0, Honda VCM engines and many others.


Originally Posted by ToadU
Btw Turing the heater to full blast can quickly cool down an engine to a safe temperature before shutting it off. You never overheated so no worries.


For the heater core to remove heat from the coolant it has to have circulation, with a blown belt as in this case there is none, turning the heater up to 11 is having very little effect.
To the original question, yes change the oil.
 
777, a man after my own heart.

3K on 3 of my vehicles and 5K on the other. All synthetic.

Funny how we often we fail to answer an OP's question.

Even more funny how we then criticize one another's opinion. OPINION.


I would change the oil and filter now and every 5K if I wanted to keep the truck a long time.
 
Originally Posted by Gebo
777, a man after my own heart.

3K on 3 of my vehicles and 5K on the other. All synthetic.

Funny how we often we fail to answer an OP's question.

Even more funny how we then criticize one another's opinion. OPINION.


I would change the oil and filter now and every 5K if I wanted to keep the truck a long time.

Total waste 3k oci on synthetics. In fact it's bewildering. OP, keep that 4k fill in there and run it till your usual 10k interval.
 
Originally Posted by ToadU
>>But I would - only because it's already seen 4k and you seem accustomed to long OCIs. All engines need an earlier-than-normal bath / engine cleanup, once in a while.
Totally disagree. I've never seen a single owners manual or service bulletin at my service shop suggest this. An-earlier-than-normal bath is another one of those old wives tales and urban oil legends. Gut feelings. Totally not necessary. Waste of money and resources accomplishing nothing.

Unless that oil is analyzed to really know the oil's condition, you are just speculating with someone else's money. You have no idea how his engine was operated during those 4k miles and for the low cost of an oil change, it's cheap insurance. I would change it after running an engine abnormally hot and 4k miles into an oil change. There's lots of things which should be done and are not in the owners manual. If they printed everything, the manual would be as thick as a service manual.
 
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Originally Posted by tbm5690
Originally Posted by ToadU
Yes, it absolutely is excessive to idle my truck. The difference is I get something in return for my expenditure. An ice cold or warm—depending on the season—truck to get into. So there is a benefit from my expenditure. There is no benefit from a 3k oil change or changing oil so frequently as to never have it change colors. That's a zero benefit in the longevity and operation of the vehicle.


A remote starter would be a happy medium to accomplish this without excessive run time, especially in your case since cooling is pretty quick.



I'm not wasting the money or time on a remote starter. The new Superduty's actually have remote start built in even on base models through the Ford Pass app. You can even set a time and day schedule like if you get up everyday at 8am and tell it to have the truck at a certain temp hot or cold. Nice feature. I just always forget to use it so I leave it running mostly. I only keep my trucks 18-24 months because I send them to auction at 190k mikes or 7800 engine hours. I have a fleet deal w Ford and we get 8k engine hours or 200k miles whatever comes first bumper to bumper warranty.
 
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)))Many engines are known to have serious issues with longer than 3K OCI. You claim to be a like Saab but you cant have owned or worked on many of them, go long OCI on some of these and you need an engine in short order. Ditto VW 1.8T, Chrysler 2.7, Toyota 3.0, Honda VCM engines and many others. (((

Had many Saabs over the years. Never coked a turbo or blown an engine. My last Saab was a special edition, only 50 made, had a name plate with my name built into it and had a high pressure turbo. Saab flew me to Sweden and I toured the factory and drove the car on their test track before they shipped it to a dealer in the US for me.

I always followed the owners manual and never had an issue. Ran cheapest oil meeting spec I could find...bulk pumped from my service shop tanks....and a jobber filter mostly fram jobbers or Fram orange cans from my service department. Trying to remember the year......it's was a 9-5 and about 2 years before GM sold Saab and it's demise. High pressure turbo, tuning and suspension and a limited edition with special emblems and Custom seats. I paid somewhere just over 60k for the car and that had to have been over 10 years ago.....not my smartest buy but I really liked the car and the factory tour.

Saabs are not the most reliable vehicles and I had many, many, many Saab issues but turbos and oil related engine issues were not one of them. My last special edition Saab I sold at around 165k miles and it looked and drove like new—original engine and turbo. Consumed normal amounts of oil. (If I remember correctly it was on its third tranny through) I don't have any more Saabs. Too hard to source parts. I miss them though.

Wife had 2 Lexus small SUVs many years ago with the 3.0V6. Cheap bulk oil meeting spec, max change intervals and jobber filters. No issues.
 
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Originally Posted by vivaUkraine
Originally Posted by ToadU
jobber filters. No issues.


Sorry, what's a "jobber" filter? How is it different from OE filter?


Jobber filters are manufactured for a low and economical price point, sold in bulk and packaged differently. Example Fram jobber filters are white and packaged for shops. Most every manufacturer of filters makes a line exclusively for high volume shops as a very low price point.
 
This article in the link below is a few years dated, but not so old it isn't still useful as directional guidance, IMO. Though they don't specify brands, synthetic oils tested generally allow double OC's, which is what I've always followed.

If you're using high quality synthetic oil, you should be good to 5k OCI with a GDI engine, and 7.5k OCI with a MPFI engine, or whatever your O&M Manual says (may be just to let OLI tell you to change).

As much discussed, GDI engines are a whole nother cat, with so much unburned HC getting dumped into the oil via blowby. Gotta change at 5k. I own one such beast. If it's a little dinker with turbo(s) & high rpm, shear stability becomes critical too. Since most any gasoline engine has VVT today, oxidation stability is paramount.

https://www.ilma.org/PDF/ILMANews/2017/AAAreport.pdf
"A rapid decrease in oxidation resistance occurred in mineral-based engine oils after 3,000 to 4,000 miles
of use. In some cases, very low oxidation resistance was found after 2,000 miles of use. Significantly
better results were observed for synthetic based lubricants [18]
It was also found that synthetic-based engine oils retain the ability to neutralize acids appreciably longer than
mineral-based engine oils. It was concluded that many of the better performing engine oils subjected to
real-world use were formulated using synthetic base stocks [18]. "
 
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