Should I change or keep with my regimen?

[crackerloco]

I've been a long-time lurker and finally decided to register. I've always been obsessed with oil, and try to make my vehicles last as long as possible. I have a 95 F150 300 I-6 with 155,000 miles that I have always used M1 10w30 in, and will probably continue to do so unless anyone can tell me a reason not to as I only drive it about 5000 miles/year. My daily driver is where I think I might have to make some changes. It's a 95 Ford Escort, 1.9L, 5-speed, 143,000 miles. I currently use this car to deliver pizzas to help put myself through college. I bought the car 14 months ago with 113,000 miles on it, and have always used Castrol GTX 5w30 with WIX filters and the occasional motorcraft or Fram Tough Guard when I can't find the WIX. I always change both the oil and filter at 3000 miles, and the oil always looks okay when I drain it. When I make a delivery, I usually leave my car running and locked as I've always heard that it's better to let an engine idle for a minute or two than to keep shutting it off and restarting it. Even if this is not the best option, I need to keep doing this as Detroit Police have a response time of about four hours if they even show up at all. I have debated switching to synthetic oil, but I'm not sure if this would be worth the extra cost due to the age of the car. Also, should I used a thicker oil, at least in the summer? Ford recommends 5w30 as the best choice for my car, but I do a lot more idling than most people. Also, if you think I should switch to a synthetic oil, should I flush the motor with seafoam or another additive first? Thanks for all your help.

 

[deven]

Keep on doing what you are doing. Dont fix if it aint broken!!! Castrol GTX is a great oil, use it for 3k OCI's since it has high mileage. As for the idling, I have always believed that idling is worse than turning the car off and on. One of the reasons why i dont like to go to the drive-thru for anything. I would definately not using synthetic as this stage of the cars life. Since you are putting yourself thru college, I am pretty sure money is tight so the cheapest oil that meets GF-4/SM rating will do the trick. Hope this helps and good luck in college

 

[ARB1977]

Quote:

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I've been a long-time lurker and finally decided to register. I've always been obsessed with oil, and try to make my vehicles last as long as possible. I have a 95 F150 300 I-6 with 155,000 miles that I have always used M1 10w30 in, and will probably continue to do so unless anyone can tell me a reason not to as I only drive it about 5000 miles/year. My daily driver is where I think I might have to make some changes. It's a 95 Ford Escort, 1.9L, 5-speed, 143,000 miles. I currently use this car to deliver pizzas to help put myself through college. I bought the car 14 months ago with 113,000 miles on it, and have always used Castrol GTX 5w30 with WIX filters and the occasional motorcraft or Fram Tough Guard when I can't find the WIX. I always change both the oil and filter at 3000 miles, and the oil always looks okay when I drain it. When I make a delivery, I usually leave my car running and locked as I've always heard that it's better to let an engine idle for a minute or two than to keep shutting it off and restarting it. Even if this is not the best option, I need to keep doing this as Detroit Police have a response time of about four hours if they even show up at all. I have debated switching to synthetic oil, but I'm not sure if this would be worth the extra cost due to the age of the car. Also, should I used a thicker oil, at least in the summer? Ford recommends 5w30 as the best choice for my car, but I do a lot more idling than most people. Also, if you think I should switch to a synthetic oil, should I flush the motor with seafoam or another additive first? Thanks for all your help.

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Yea as mentioned before stick to what your doing. What i dont under stand is that people will have a lot of miles using the same oil since day one then all of the sudden they need to change, keep doing what your doing. You migh want to do a UOA to see how shes doing and by the way

 

[benjamming]

I don't buy the whole idea of not changing b/c it has worked well in the past. I like to try to improve as I go along. But hey, that's just me.

If you use engine cleaner, use AutoRX for both!

As said previously, a UOA is the best bet for checking on an oil's condition. You really can't tell much just by looking at it.

 

[427Z06]

Quote:

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I have a 95 F150 300 I-6 with 155,000 miles that I have always used M1 10w30 in, and will probably continue to do so unless anyone can tell me a reason not to as I only drive it about 5000 miles/year.

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Since you're in college, here's one place I'd look to save some money. There are other oils that would serve just as well as M1 and you may find better deals on them.

Castrol Syntec 5/10w-30
Chevron Supreme Synthetic 5/10w-30
Pennzoil Platinum 5/10w-30
Quaker State Full Synthetic 5/10w-30
Amsoil XL 5/10w-30
Havoline Synthetic 5/10w-30
Schaeffer Supreme 7000 SAE 5/10w-30
Valvoline SynPower 5/10w-30
SuperTech Full Synthetic 5/10w-30

And if that 95 F150 300 I-6 has flat tappets, you might want to consider some of the HDEOs such as Rotella T-Synthetic 5w40 or the same or other brands in the dino flavor of HDEO 10w30 grades.

 

[TallPaul]

Well, if you are tight on $$, the Mobil 1 is a bit expensive. Could run some of that Pennzoil Platinum that has been on sale so much for about $2 a quart. Look for deals on any synthetic. Any of it will go one year and 5000 miles, unless it is all short trips. I ran Maxlife in my motorhome 5000 miles and one year. Oil seemed fine.

I'd shut of the engine. Seems less tempting to the thief, even if you do lock it. Maybe lock it even with the engine off.

What pizza joint do you deliver for?

 

[Oil Changer]

I'd just keep doing what you are doing.