Why change it with only 1,600 miles on it? I wait until at least 3,000 miles even on vehicles that are short tripped or driven in very cold temps.
Shearing - Add a Quart of 10w40?
- Thread starter Nick1994
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Let us know if the engine sounds quieter with the 10W-40. That would be interesting.
Switch to Redline, their 5w30 contains zero VIIs and is totally unshearable
I would go with Rotella T6, good basestock, share stable and cheap.
Originally Posted By: catdiesel
The 10w30 will still shear. 10w40's don't shear like they did in the past, to think they do is old thinking. I'd go with a 10w40/15w40.
That makes no sense...the 10W40 will have a lower viscosity basestock, higher NOACK, and way more VII than the 10W30 would ever have...to say that thinking that the 10W40 shearing is "old thinking"...what does it say of your view of the 10W30 ?
15W40 is a different beast, and the OP doesn't likely need an HTHS of 4.4cst. If he needs the high 3s of a 10W40, then he'd be better off with an HM 10W30..IMO
The 10w30 will still shear. 10w40's don't shear like they did in the past, to think they do is old thinking. I'd go with a 10w40/15w40.
That makes no sense...the 10W40 will have a lower viscosity basestock, higher NOACK, and way more VII than the 10W30 would ever have...to say that thinking that the 10W40 shearing is "old thinking"...what does it say of your view of the 10W30 ?
15W40 is a different beast, and the OP doesn't likely need an HTHS of 4.4cst. If he needs the high 3s of a 10W40, then he'd be better off with an HM 10W30..IMO
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Um, Arizona, HELLO? Is anyone there? It gets like 120 degrees there in the summer. 5W30 is not the correct oil for your application. Those old, and I mean old, engines LOVE a 40 weight oil.
0W40, 5W40, 10W40, or 15W40 is what you should be running. I'd be inclined to run the cheapest 15W40 conventional I could find. It is a 20 year old Jeep after all.
If you want it to last another 20 years, "invest" in some Mobil 1 15w-50. Otherwise, run dirty dishwater, or any cheap oil in it as suggested above.
The thinking that old engines don't deserve a quality synthetic oil is totally baffling to me.
Z
Um, Arizona, HELLO? Is anyone there? It gets like 120 degrees there in the summer. 5W30 is not the correct oil for your application. Those old, and I mean old, engines LOVE a 40 weight oil.
0W40, 5W40, 10W40, or 15W40 is what you should be running. I'd be inclined to run the cheapest 15W40 conventional I could find. It is a 20 year old Jeep after all.
If you want it to last another 20 years, "invest" in some Mobil 1 15w-50. Otherwise, run dirty dishwater, or any cheap oil in it as suggested above.
The thinking that old engines don't deserve a quality synthetic oil is totally baffling to me.
Z
Since you paid $1 for the 5w30, I would just run it out to 2.5-3k and be done with it.
In regards to it being the wrong weight, your grandpa drives 3-4k a year.. I don't think the engine would know the difference assuming you keep the 5w30 intervals short.
In regards to it being the wrong weight, your grandpa drives 3-4k a year.. I don't think the engine would know the difference assuming you keep the 5w30 intervals short.
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Originally Posted By: Dallas69
Don't worry about shearing.if you need to topoff any just use the 10-40 but I wouldn't drain any out.
You will be fine.
Unfortunately for this situation, it doesn't burn a drop lol.
Most 4.0's don't.
Great climate for a standard relatively thin 10w40 like Pennzoil Conventional or Valvoline, or a heavy thirty like Rotella. Since you are doing synthetic Rotella 5w40 would also be "da bomb". Thicker HM 30's would also be great, like Defy or Pennzoil High Mileage. You have a lot of choices, just lean to the thick side of things and the 4.0 will be very happy.
Some guys like 15w40 I have tried it and personally I think that is needless overkill. JMO.
Originally Posted By: Dallas69
Don't worry about shearing.if you need to topoff any just use the 10-40 but I wouldn't drain any out.
You will be fine.
Unfortunately for this situation, it doesn't burn a drop lol.
Most 4.0's don't.
Great climate for a standard relatively thin 10w40 like Pennzoil Conventional or Valvoline, or a heavy thirty like Rotella. Since you are doing synthetic Rotella 5w40 would also be "da bomb". Thicker HM 30's would also be great, like Defy or Pennzoil High Mileage. You have a lot of choices, just lean to the thick side of things and the 4.0 will be very happy.
Some guys like 15w40 I have tried it and personally I think that is needless overkill. JMO.
Permanent Shearing?
Don't use an ILSAC oil. It has a low HTHS for CAFE FE req.
Use a BWM spec ACEA A3b4 LL01 or MercBenz 229.5 with a HTHS of >3.5
Plus it'll be a "real" LL syn.
Motul XMAX 5w30 or Fuchs Silkolene, Pentosin etc.
Id sub some (1L) 5w40 ACEA A3 or 10w40M1 in there for now to get value out of your last OCI.
Rotella mixed Fleet Triple Protect conventional 10w30 is an option if still available. GUD OIL.
Don't use an ILSAC oil. It has a low HTHS for CAFE FE req.
Use a BWM spec ACEA A3b4 LL01 or MercBenz 229.5 with a HTHS of >3.5
Plus it'll be a "real" LL syn.
Motul XMAX 5w30 or Fuchs Silkolene, Pentosin etc.
Id sub some (1L) 5w40 ACEA A3 or 10w40M1 in there for now to get value out of your last OCI.
Rotella mixed Fleet Triple Protect conventional 10w30 is an option if still available. GUD OIL.
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: catdiesel
The 10w30 will still shear. 10w40's don't shear like they did in the past, to think they do is old thinking. I'd go with a 10w40/15w40.
That makes no sense...the 10W40 will have a lower viscosity basestock, higher NOACK, and way more VII than the 10W30 would ever have...to say that thinking that the 10W40 shearing is "old thinking"...what does it say of your view of the 10W30 ?
15W40 is a different beast, and the OP doesn't likely need an HTHS of 4.4cst. If he needs the high 3s of a 10W40, then he'd be better off with an HM 10W30..IMO
I don't think you are getting through somehow, at this point it appears that the choices are either 15W-50 or dirty dishwater...
Originally Posted By: catdiesel
The 10w30 will still shear. 10w40's don't shear like they did in the past, to think they do is old thinking. I'd go with a 10w40/15w40.
That makes no sense...the 10W40 will have a lower viscosity basestock, higher NOACK, and way more VII than the 10W30 would ever have...to say that thinking that the 10W40 shearing is "old thinking"...what does it say of your view of the 10W30 ?
15W40 is a different beast, and the OP doesn't likely need an HTHS of 4.4cst. If he needs the high 3s of a 10W40, then he'd be better off with an HM 10W30..IMO
I don't think you are getting through somehow, at this point it appears that the choices are either 15W-50 or dirty dishwater...
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Let us know if the engine sounds quieter with the 10W-40. That would be interesting.
I can't hear any difference with the 10w40, although I didn't let it get hot yet. For a 4.0L it's very quiet, most of the noise is the fan, and the fuel injectors.
The oil that came out had 1,600 miles on it, it was 5w30 Pennzoil Platinum (PurePlus). It was pretty dark pouring out and in the pan, but when on my finger it was pretty clean. The oil doesn't usually get this dark so this must have done some really good cleaning. When I had the oil pan off a little over a year ago it looked like a brand new engine underneath, we've never had the valve cover off but I took a picture down the fill hole. I reused the Fram Ultra.
Let us know if the engine sounds quieter with the 10W-40. That would be interesting.
I can't hear any difference with the 10w40, although I didn't let it get hot yet. For a 4.0L it's very quiet, most of the noise is the fan, and the fuel injectors.
The oil that came out had 1,600 miles on it, it was 5w30 Pennzoil Platinum (PurePlus). It was pretty dark pouring out and in the pan, but when on my finger it was pretty clean. The oil doesn't usually get this dark so this must have done some really good cleaning. When I had the oil pan off a little over a year ago it looked like a brand new engine underneath, we've never had the valve cover off but I took a picture down the fill hole. I reused the Fram Ultra.
Originally Posted By: chrisri
I would go with Rotella T6, good basestock, share stable and cheap.
Me too. Designed for diesels and shown not to shear in turbo engines. If he only drives 4K miles a year, doesn't matter if it shears or not. The engine will outlast the body which is already 20 years old.
I would go with Rotella T6, good basestock, share stable and cheap.
Me too. Designed for diesels and shown not to shear in turbo engines. If he only drives 4K miles a year, doesn't matter if it shears or not. The engine will outlast the body which is already 20 years old.
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Nick that is one clean 4.0!
If I showed you the same shot of mine you'd puke, and that would be after 45k of BITOG'er obsessive maintenance.
If I showed you the same shot of mine you'd puke, and that would be after 45k of BITOG'er obsessive maintenance.
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
Nick that is one clean 4.0!
If I showed you the same shot of mine you'd puke, and that would be after 45k of BITOG'er obsessive maintenance.
I'd really like to pull the valve cover, but it isn't leaking enough to need a new gasket. It's probably clean enough to eat off of, it was owned by the state of Arizona for the first 11 years/100k miles of its life. I imagine they took good care of it. Since my grandfather has owned it, it's had 3-4k mile OCIs the past 8 years. It got its first taste of synthetic with the PP, mostly dealer changes and me using MaxLife 10w40 or GTX 10w30
Nick that is one clean 4.0!
If I showed you the same shot of mine you'd puke, and that would be after 45k of BITOG'er obsessive maintenance.
I'd really like to pull the valve cover, but it isn't leaking enough to need a new gasket. It's probably clean enough to eat off of, it was owned by the state of Arizona for the first 11 years/100k miles of its life. I imagine they took good care of it. Since my grandfather has owned it, it's had 3-4k mile OCIs the past 8 years. It got its first taste of synthetic with the PP, mostly dealer changes and me using MaxLife 10w40 or GTX 10w30
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