Shaeffers 131 vs Lucas UCL/ Fuel Treatment

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Jun 4, 2002
Are these two comparable enough to each other in the gas tank of a gasoline engine for cleaning abilties of the combustion chambers/valves and upper cylinder lube that is a toss up on which to buy?

Or I might restate,instead of cleaning abilities to be able too keep a already clean chamber and valve clean

The reason I ask is I have a months supply left,time to get some ordered if the 131 is the ticket
I have used Lucas UCL in my diesel truck and I noticed no changes. I've used it in 2 riding lawn mowers, and 2 gas vehicles. I didn't notice any changes. That doesn't mean that it is not good, I just didn't notice any difference.

Now for the Neutra 131, I add one ounce to each gallon of gasoline for the mowers, BIG difference in starting and running. The real change was using it in my boats. 1oz to 3 gallons. All 3 boats are oil injected 2-cycle. This stuff is the real deal on small engines and boat engines.

I put 6oz in the fuel in my Mazda 626 with 7K miles. It woke this little thing up. Just seemed to smooth out the idle and response.

But now for the kicker, DON'T take a wiff of this stuff. Man if the kids ever discover this stuff, spray paint and glue sniffing will be minor compared to the Neutra.

dragboat, my recommendation is Auto-Rx in the crankcase and Neutra 131 in the fuel. It is a winning combination for me. BUT, don't make the mistake that I did, and only order a few bottles, get a case because if you use it you won't be sorry. And even though the directions say 12 oz. per tank full of fuel, you can cut it down to 1/2 after the first dose. If you have a vehicle that tends to carbon-up in the combustion chamber, then use it every tank at full dose. These are only my recommendations after seeing the results.
I'd like to add a third choice. Redline S1-1 cleaner. I usually use Lucas UCL but trialiing this. In Evo 98 PULP it seems to work well in Mazda turbo and engine is smooth. After say 5 tank loads I'll report on any economy changes.
So this Neutra 131 will eliminate any carbon buildup in the combustion chamber? If so, I might
pick up some for my Firebird, just to be sure I have a totally clean combustion chamber. Any
carbon buildup I have will reduce my total spark advance since it will cause more knock
retard. By reducing this knock retard and increasing my timing I could pick up a few horsepower.
I went to the MSDS last night and made my decision. A trick I learned from watching Molakule when info was absent or proprietory on the various websties

Thanks for the replies but I should have researched before posting,if you want to save space delete the thread

Patman,very easy to make that knock sensor a little less sensitive or to trick the computer into never removing any leed .Email if interested
I know how to make the knock sensor less sensitive, but in my case I don't believe the
knock I am getting is false knock, I believe it's actual carbon buildup. So desensitizing the
knock sensors will cause me more harm than good.
Then I misinterpeted a prior post by you on this matter. After viewing this,your welcome to delete both these posts to save room since email was not used and is out of context of the thread

[ August 18, 2002, 10:56 AM: Message edited by: dragboat ]
Neutra 131 is one of the most diversed products I have ever seen that actually works.

I have customers that use it in many applications from diesel and gas, oil, transmissions, powersteering units and gearboxes.

It provides a lubricant property as well as a cleaning process, and will not dry out seals causing them to crack over time which is one of the most common problems due to cleaning processes in most fuel additives.

It softens up carbon deposits slowly, and breaks down the deposits slowly not to cause any problems with excessive chunks breaking off and possibly causing damage.

One of the things I have done to see how this stuff reacts with carbon, I took a harden'd carbon'd valve from an engines intake, let it sit overnite in the 131 with no heat, but just at room temp and came back in to find the carbon was soft. Now of course this is not going to happen in the engine like this but the point I wanted to know, would it clean it off. If left over a period of time, it would have cleaned all of it off but again, this was an extreme case of harden'd cabon deposit.

The other thing I did, was to put some 131 neutra in a white throw a way coffee cup. Let it sit and it did no damage to this cup. This tells me if it doesn't hurt this cup, then it wont hurt rubber seals in injectors and such as it had no effects on the cup. I have not tried this with any other but I'm sure there is others than can do this but how do they rate otherwise?

Again, this is where the Schaeffers products balance of additives/formulations really show off.

Toyota buys this stuff by the case loads. They use it in any car with a drivability problem as well as a maintanence issue for the used cars going out for sell on the used lot.

I just sold 3 more last night to autozone employees as they really liked how it helped their vehicles. (btw, lucas was sitting on their counter)

It all boils down to preference and of course I strongly believe in the 131 neutra as it being as diversed and inexpensive yet powerful in many ways to do jobs many that claim to do not.

I have no idea just how you'd tell a quality of a lubricant just from tech and msds' as this is only a guidline for the basic components of oil and as many of you know, we have established many times that not all facts are exposed on oils and such from the numbers seen on those sheets alone.
Obviously it is a good guide for a starting point but trying it will provide you the best proof of all.
"I have no idea just how you'd tell a quality of a lubricant just from tech and msds' as this is only a guidline for the basic components of oil and as many of you know,"

Because I want a product to use every tank of gas,I saw the alcohol and the evaporation percent and disqualified it

"I have no idea just how you'd tell a quality of a lubricant"

Nothing in my post was related to quality of the Shaeffer product, but now your post forces me to quantify why "I" have chosen to stay with the Lucas that shows a milaege gain as well based on my own calculations with and wihout it in the tank. I will not put alcohol of any kind in my gas tank.

I am very glad others have used the 131 successfully,,I just think for my usage the Lucas is better for me in that I want a product for every tank full of gas. I did not want to post why I decided and as you can read above,suggested deleting the thread could have saved space and further discussion and possible more ill feelings again.

Pulled from the previous post

(Thanks for the replies but I should have researched before posting,if you want to save space delete the thread)

[ August 18, 2002, 11:15 AM: Message edited by: dragboat ]
Not a problem Dragboat. You had asked and I feel that this is an opportunity to discuss this as there is many others that may also want to decide on what to look for and I think you are demonstrating a good point here.

I myself am not offended because I know that your basing your choice on what you think is important. This is based on your knowledge and experience understandably.

I know that lucas does put out a decent fuel additive as does Schaeffers so, you are picking a good one. But also let me say that this is another one of those times that information on tech data and msds sheets can be mis leading and that I think this is one of those items that you see but fail to understand how it in the scheme of the overall picture see how it actually effects things.

It's kinda like, who would have used snake venom to cure when by itself in the wrong dose it can kill you? Same with the additives, by itself, it can be detrimental but in a proper dose and blended into other things, will react in different positive ways. Just a thought.

Not to mention price of the Schaeffers is slightly lower than lucas.

Also, it can be used in everytank but not always is it needed. The mileage after a good cleaning would maintain until the engine started to suffer again from the carbon build up.

It's just a matter of preference.

[ August 18, 2002, 12:04 PM: Message edited by: BOBISTHEOILGUY ]

Originally posted by dragboat:
However I will be the first to acknowledge I am over using it at this point but the car is new "4k",I am running a lighter oil than I really should be and am trying to keep the top end lubed for the rest of this heat spell and period of oil change.

FYI, you cannot overuse neutra 131 in the fuel system. That will not cause any problems if you so desire to use in every tank full as I have many that do just that as well. Again, just a preference for each person as to what they want. I just don't recommend using it in the oil all the time as it is not needed there especially when you have an excellent oil in the engine to begin with.

got your email and responded. thanks, bob

[ August 18, 2002, 02:36 PM: Message edited by: BOBISTHEOILGUY ]
You have some valid points! However I will be the first to acknowledge I am over using it at this point but the car is new "4k",I am running a lighter oil than I really should be and am trying to keep the top end lubed for the rest of this heat spell and period of oil change.

Which bring to mind,Shaeffers has a neat in my opinion additive for oil I found last night. I forget the number of it though. I will email you later and ask of some benefits in 1/4 mile racers with extreme spring pressure of 900lbs open which demands a bit of extra help even with a race oil. But for now,gotta run!
I have just started to use Lucas UCL a couple of weeks ago when I decided to live with my oil consumption. I figured it would keep my intake tract and combustion chambers clean and lubricated. I noticed a MPG increase from 14.5 to 15.5 pretty consistantly over 3 tanks. Now 1 MPG may not seem signifigant, but it is about 7.5% increase in gas mileage.

I bought it locally for $7 a quart which will supply 6 tanks of gas. I considered the 131, but unless a product is leaps and bounds better, I prefer to stay away from mail order due to the extra shipping costs.
I think you'll find that there is no such thing as a leaps and or bounds difference between these two products and completely understand why you'd by local than ship. There is differences but as a fuel additive, I suspect it's a neck and neck product with not much if any difference in performance between the two for your application.
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