Setting up a UOA program

[Bugshu]

Ok, my friends accuse me of absorbing a little too much information at times so lets get back down to basics.

Here is the situation. Ive just purchased a new vehicle (a Pilot) and Id like to treat it right and extend its useful life. It has 300 miles on it having been driven home from the dealer and it was broken in with a bit of hard driving across the timespan to as the dealer says (seat the rings).

The question then arises as to steps to take to setup a good UOA program and how to do it right. If it were up to me, Id change the oil at 1000, 2500, 5000, and 7500 miles but Im not sure if this is needed or would help and/or if having 3 UOA's done before 5000 miles would give needed advice towards the vehicle. A UOA oil change is a $50 event and I dont really want to do 5 of them before 5000 miles.

Ok, I have these questions. What is a good OCI when breaking in one of these Pilots and what is a good way to setup and start a UOA program?

Additionally, Id like advice on whether to use Lube Control or ARX to get some of the initial manufacturing crud out of the engine and start off with a hyper clean engine and keep it that way. Im thinking about using LC in the transmission and power steering fluid and do an initial ARX cleaning in the oil.

Im half tempted to pour a bottle of ARX in the thing to make certain its clean and then run it for 1500 miles and do a mineral oil change with valvoline synlube and then change to synthetics at 3500 miles.

I hear about special break in oils and Honda recommending the first oil change at 7500 miles. The dealer offers me a free oil change at 3000 miles. Others suggest getting the oil out at 1000 miles. And opinions seem all over the place.

Id be open to the idea of suggestions to test out a new oil (as long as its a good one) so we could do scientific tests to prove its worth but on the other hand I have quite the supply of oils already on hand. I have a bad habit of buying oils when I see them on sale and unfortunately I have an oversupply of the stuff. Having read others UOA's I have become convinced that 20 viscosity oils are the way to go and I dont really think that I need to go to a 30 unless some of the really smart people here tell me otherwise. Oil filter opinions are all over the place but few stores actually carry filters for Honda's so I may just order some of the Hamps.

Anyway, help and opinions on how to setup an oil change program and UOA properly would be appreciated. I dont want to just randomly do UOAs without a plan. I dont want to overdo it and change the oil every 5 minutes but Id like to start off with a sensible plan that will get me across the break in timetable. Is 1,000, 3000, 6000, 10,000 sensible or is 1500, 3000, 7500, 15000 better? Does UOA even help with short initial break in intervals?

What am I doing *gasp* ......... Ive always had good luck at extending the life of used vehicles beyond normal expectations and this is the first time that Ive taken the plunge for a new one and I think I need some help before I outsmart myself. Id rather get the opinions of those that have experience with UOA's and just follow their advice. I never really get into bad trouble following the advice of experts who are smarter in their field than I am.

Thanks for your opinions and help.

Happy Motoring All,

Bugshu

 

[ekpolk]

My recommendation:

1) Don't bother with multiple early UOAs. You don't need to run a test to tell yourself what you already know: that there's a lot of debris in there. Maybe run one after a change or two to ensure that nothing's really off (how likely in a new car???) and to begin a baseline.

2) After your engine settles down, try a couple of different oils during the first year or two. Take your time, and do UOAs on the ones you think will do well. Ultimately pick the one YOU find to do best in YOUR engine.

3) Similar thinking on the filter. If you're really feeling like taking it to the nth degree, dissect a few. Having started doing this myself, the part that really concerns me is the bypass valve. I don't like the cardboard end caps either, but potentially brittle, flimsy plastic bypass valve mechanicals like you find in the Fram scare me. I'd prefer any filter with the metal design. If the OEM has that, you can use it and forget it.

4) Try to keep in mind that your vehicle is there to serve you, not the other way around. . .

 

[Gary Allan]

ekpoke gave good advice there.


Why not ask Terry as see what he thinks? I'd imagine that after you get done with the break-in shedding and establish a baseline, you would do an annual UOA using him. This would catch any filtration or head gasket issues or anything that may be needed for the dealer to fix before the warranty expires. After you figure out what works well in your type of service, the rest is kinda looking for stray problems. Kinda like an annual checkup at the doctors.

What kinda mileage it this thing going to see a year?? 10k - 15k? ..and what's the recommended OCI on this engine?


To make yourself feel proactive, go ahead and change the oil @ 1500 ...take the dealer up on the 3000 mile offer ...run to 7500 (4500 miles on oil). Do a UOA ..not for wear metals so much ..but to test the oil for additives and whatnot. This will dictate your next OCI. You just work up toward the max recommended factory OCI with factory spec'd oil in 25-50% increments. Do a UOA every other OCI (should be one a year and won't necessarily focus on wear metals for the first 20k) and if you don't fall into some niche service duty ..you should be set for many years of flawless service from the engine from a lubrication stand point.