semi-noobish question

[bfgun]

I purchased a used Honda accord about a year and a half ago, will be doing a oil analysis on it prettty soon. Since i've had it' i've ran it with Mobil 1 10-30 (synthetic) But when i first checked the oil, i saw a layer of tarnish on the dip stick. I'm assuming this is because the previous owner went with the base honda oil filter and whatever brand the dealership used. Since i've been using the synthetic brand, which currenly I have 5-30 in my car, i figured this varnish would dissapear from the dip stick.

it hasnt. So, tell me folks, is there a strong possibility that this varnish is all over the entire engine. I really don't have a location as to where i can change the oil myself, but wanted to see some suggestions from you guys. I've considered going with penzoil platinum just to see if it would clear the tarnish, or should i just not worry about it?

I've also thought about trying castrol synthetic, but not sure. I've been running about 4000k miles between changes and using a wix oil filter (NAPA)

Basic info on my car, 56,000 miles, 4 cylinder engine, and no leaks. I've put almost 20k miles on it with synthetic oil.

Thanks!
-Brian

 

[dave1251]

If you indead have varnish with 4K OCI and your car has 56K miles may have a problem with water getting in the oil. Have you had to refill your coolent overflow tank?

 

[bfgun]

nope. it's been at the same level since i've had the car. I figured if water or coolant was getting in, i'd see some in the oil whenever i checked the dipstick. it's usually gold in color or a little darker as i go longer without an oil change. the varnish is brownish in color, not dark brown but more on the lighter side.

Will send an oil sample to blackstone soon, but wanted your input on this for feedback, ideas or possible problems or concerns to check out.

 

[CBDFrontier06]

Perhaps it was overheated at some point, or the previous owner didn't care much for getting the oil changed. Even crappy dinos shouldn't leave that much varnish that quickly unless something extraordinary took place, or a complete lack of maintenance.

 

[BrianWC]

Varnish in most instances can be purely a cosmetic problem. Although in extreme situations it can cause things to gunk up. Don't count on anything to remove it quickly. Typically, once it's there, it's there and more than likely, it's not going to hurt a thing. Varnish can be just the byproduct of using a dino oil. Sludge is your bigger concern and varnish does NOT serve as a reliable indicator of sludge.

BTW, in my car, running redline, 2 courses of arx, B-12, Nuetra, and LC has not removed the varnish on my dipstick. 30k after buying my car and discovering the varnish and a few sludgies, I have yet to have an issue.

 

[TR3-2001SE]

I had this same varnish on my 97 accord when I purchased it at 113,000 miles. Two auto-rx treatments and a steady diet of Mobil 1 has removed it completely from the dip stick. Through the oil filler hole it is like 80% gone so some of it must be very tough to remove. Auto-rx will remove it so this is the solution.

 

[BrianWC]

Just warning you, don't blame arx if it doesn't. They don't claim to be able to remove all varnish in the normal treatment. This is more of an additive topic, methinks.

 

[m2200b]

If the dipstick and other visible varnish was in the first 36K as you say you've another 20k with M1 I'd treat it as a probable indication of poor maintenance in the 36K. UOA for residual damage indications and coolant, fuel , air cleaner problems and ARX it. After the ARX check the filter at the end of the clean and rinse cycles for more indications of the need for more cleaning. After that most likely all you've got is varnish- drive on.

 

[AndyH]

You might want to consider running some Auto-Rx to help clean up the engine internals:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=12;t=000024

 

[Rand]

I'm not familiar with that engine but if the dipstick is off the front of the engine it may
simply be getting varnish because of the cold air
cooling the dipstick tube.

My gf's hyundai had HORRID vanish and tar like deposits.. one A-rx treatment took off the tar
and loosened some of the varnish
but it quickly reappeared in one 3000mile oci
of havoline 5w30.

 

[Clyde65]

quote:

---

But when i first checked the oil, i saw a layer of tarnish on the dip stick.

---

Do you have varnish or tarnish?

You're already doing the right thing. The Mobil 1 oil will clean that Honda motor up slicker than a whistle with Redline on it.

 

[BrianWC]

Clyde please don't get TOO confident that oil alone will clean out an engine, regardless of whether it's M1, Redline, an HDEO or whatever. We just don't have a whole lot of documented actual evidence of it on here. Some anicdotal evidence but....

Where synths shine is keeping an engine clean to begin with.

 

[bfgun]

don't think the oil will clean an engine, it would work on keeping it clean, as this is the case i'm seeing with the dipstick. i cleaned off the dipstick, and the area where it's submerged in oil, that has stayed clean. So, more than likely, it's probably before the 36k miles of use on the car before i got it. it originally was a michigan car before it was brought to maryland.

i'll probably try a bottle of RX and see if it cleans it a bit. i'm not looking for a super clean engine, just would like to clean off some of the gunk and tarnish. I'm assumning since i have synthetic, i probably should run it in the car for about 1500-2000 miles? it won't hurt the lubrication properties of the oil itself, correct?

Thanks!
-B

 

[AndyH]

quote:

---

Originally posted by bfgun:
i'll probably try a bottle of RX and see if it cleans it a bit. i'm not looking for a super clean engine, just would like to clean off some of the gunk and tarnish. I'm assumning since i have synthetic, i probably should run it in the car for about 1500-2000 miles? it won't hurt the lubrication properties of the oil itself, correct?

---

I believe Auto-RX works best with conventional oil, although you can use synthetic oil during the "clean" phase. During the "rinse" phase, I believe they really would like you to use conventional oil.

And no, Auto-RX will not hurt the lubrication properties of the oil...in fact, I believe it will do just the opposite due to it's ester content. Here's a quote from Terry Dyson of Dyson Analysis:
"If you choose a conventional oil as Auto-RX suggests the RX itself is adding a load of ester to the formula so if you are worried about wear control, DON'T."

Link:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=003946;p=1#000024

 

[1999nick]

Varnish on a dipstick usually indicates one thing: The previous owner did not check his oil very often, and did not fully wipe his dipstick off when he did. My current car, a 1999 Nissan Maxima which has had 7 years of 6 month OCI's using whatever 10W30 dino the dealer had in stock has a dipstick that looks brand-new. On the other hand. my son just bought a 2001 Ford F-150 with varnish on the dipstick. The last 6 inches or so of this dipstick has twists in it that make it difficult to wipe, and this is where the varnish is.

Even if varnish is actually forming in the engine, if you pull the dipstick and wipe it off every 1000 miles or so, it will not have varnish on it, as it takes time to form.

 

[bfgun]

Ok, i think i'm going to give the auto rx a run.

Question is, which oil should I use for the rinse phase? currently i run mobil 1 5w30 synthetic, and would like to use a high grade oil. What are the suggestions for a non-synthetic oil? Would prefer a 5w30 or 10w30 grade since the summers in md easily reach 90 degrees almost every day, but if using a 5w30 will help with the rinse process faster, then give me suggestions. I get the oil changes done at the local walmart with the exception of providing them a purlator or wix oil filter.

Thanks for your help. you've all been helpful.

-B

 

[AndyH]

quote:

---

Originally posted by bfgun:
Ok, i think i'm going to give the auto rx a run.

Question is, which oil should I use for the rinse phase? currently i run mobil 1 5w30 synthetic, and would like to use a high grade oil. What are the suggestions for a non-synthetic oil?

---

I'm using Havoline 5W-30 in my girlfriend's Audi A4 1.8T which is currently in the "rinse" phase of an Auto-RX treatment. Really, any conventional SM oil (5W-30 or 10W-30) on the shelf at Wal-Mart would be just fine for use with Auto-RX.

If you have any more specific questions about Auto-RX, I'd suggest searching/reading/posting over on the Additives, Fuel, Oil, Cleaners forum. Lots of good Auto-RX information there.