Seltos with Gamma T-GDI on Rotella T6?

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May 14, 2021
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Hi,

yesterday I took my car for my first oil change in the US and requested to have a fully synthetic oil that matches my car's oil specifications.
I am no engine expert and the shop put in Rotella T6 5W40. After doing some online research, I realised this is a truck/diesel oil and after reading this: https://motoroilbasics.com/motor-oil-and-gdi-engines.php

started to worry about my new (3k Miles) engine.

Should I go back and request a replacement with a suitable oil due to concerns around deposits on the valves, or is this still a suitable engine oil that should work well in a T-GDI engine for 6 months?

Please advise. Thank you.

BR,
Mike
 
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I wouldn't worry about intake deposits, it should be fine, the biggest issue with diesel is that it has higher than allowed for phosphorous content than passenger car oil, phosphorous can contribute to poisoning of catalytic converter, it's not a huge issue if the car isn't consuming a lot of oil, you should be fine running it this one oil change but going forward I'd just use a passenger car oil, something like 5w30 or 10w30 Quaker State Synthetic.
 
Which engine is in your Kia Seltos?
He said Gamma-T which would be the 1.6L T-GDI engine, this is a canadian 2021 manual I found online, looks like you can use just about anything, although I probably wouldn't use a CK-4 oil that's not dual rated.

1621029406905.jpg
 
The viscosity chosen is appropriate for the engine and personally I'd prefer a 40 weight with summer approaching.

The only drawback to that oil is the level of additives which as mentioned above can contribute to early catalytic converter failure, but typically only if the engine consumes oil. For one oil change, I wouldn't give it a second thought, Rotella T6 is a great oil.
 
IMHO, xW-40 is a better choice for a turbo'ed engine than xW-30.
or a Euro 5w30 like Pennzoil Euro L, I think a MB229.51 oil would be a good choice for Hyundai's, they're lower SAPS and have to have a NOACK below 10% so they should be a better choice at preventing IVD and since the Hyundai interval is so short TBN depletion on America's relatively high sulfur gas shouldn't be a worry. It should be thick for grade at least 12CSt and have a HTHS viscosity over 3.5.
 
Why did you take a brand new car to some shop to start with? Kia oil change is quite cheap at the dealer
 
Recommended oil is 5W-30 A5/B5; so, next time use M1 EP 5W-30, M1 5W-30, etc.

No need to drain the Rotella, but it is not the optimal oil for your car. It will lower the fuel economy quite a bit and make the engine feel sluggish, which is something a lot people don't care about here for some reason, and it may increase your valve etc. deposits as well.
 
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Recommended oil is 5W-30 A5/B5; so, next time use M1 EP 5W-30, M1 5W-30, etc.

No need to drain the Rotella, but it is not the optimal oil for your car. It will lower the fuel economy quite a bit and make the engine feel sluggish, which is something a lot people don't care about here for some reason, and it may increase your valve etc. deposits as well.
I agree 100%
Thick oil is so overrated. It's like wearing a bullet prove vest everywhere. Are you better protected? Yes certainly, in the rare event a bullet comes your way.
However why would you toll your self with the extra weight and drag of a heavy bullet prove vest?

The same concept with oil I guess.
 
Recommended oil is 5W-30 A5/B5; so, next time use M1 EP 5W-30, M1 5W-30, etc.

No need to drain the Rotella, but it is not the optimal oil for your car. It will lower the fuel economy quite a bit and make the engine feel sluggish, which is something a lot people don't care about here for some reason, and it may increase your valve etc. deposits as well.
Quite a bit huh?
 
Thanks to everyone for taking you time and answering my question and addressing my concerns.
As others responded, the engine is the standard 1.6 Gamma T-GDI 4 cylinder turbo.

I live in Chicago, the temperatures vary drastically between summer and winter. The car is parked in a heated garage and rarely parked outside overnight. Engine starts are mostly done around 60F even in the winter.

I reckon 5W40 might not be such a bad option in our climate, 90F summers and -10F winters?

As answered by others before the only specification for the oil in the UM is ACEA A5.


Next, the reason why I went to a local shop:
-I live 45 min from the nearest dealership
-During the first complimentary oil change the guy in the shop tried to convince me that I should buy a BMW if I want to use synthetic oil in my car, KIAs run just fine on regular. He stated there is NO BENEFIT on using synthetic after they poured regular in without consulting me.Sorry, I am polite and reasonable, but this was just blatant ignorance and lies. I couldn't take the car back to Rorhman Kia in Schaumburg.
-The local shop I used has been there for 50 years and has a good rep....or HAD a good one with me....

Going forward, I will go for M1 or Edge 5W30 and bring my own oil and filter. Thank you so much for all your advice. I really appreciate it!
 
I think any 5w30 or 5w40 would be fine. Even a 0w will be fine in that motor even with the car being in heated spaces overnight.

Synthetics are pretty much the same price or just slightly higher than so called conventionals which are really synthetic blends these days. I would consider a full synthetic over the long run to ensure better deposit control and protection. The Mobil 1 0w40 for example is well touted here.
 
Hyundai’s oil recommendations are so over the place it makes VW’s team look like a professional operation. For all intents and purposes it should be ignored.

That being said T6 is wallet crushingly expensive, with little to offer for it. nobody making under $2 million+ year should buy that stuff without a rebate.
 
Quite a bit huh?
Yes, you are going from HTHS = 3.0 cP and a GF-6 oil optimized for fuel economy with a lot of organic and inorganic friction modifiers to HTHS ~ 4.1 cP and an oil with virtually no friction modifiers—such that it is recommended for wet-clutch motorcycle applications (JASO MA, MA2). It is at least a 5% hit on the fuel economy, which I consider to be a lot. You could be paying $100 a year more for gasoline. It is not to mention that the engine will feel a lot more sluggish.

By the way, Rotella doesn't even have a gasoline-engine certification. Again, I wouldn't drain it, but it doesn't bring confidence to use an oil not certified for your engine type, and it could certainly void the warranty.
 
A quick update.

I got a call from the shop owner, once his employee shared with him my concerns about the oil change.

He offered to do a new oil and filter change at no charge and put in M1 5w30.

Kudos to the shop owner for stepping up and doing the right thing. He apologised and said his technician was not aware of the ACEA A5 requirement for this type of engine. We agreed that moving forward I can bring the oil and filter and they will charge just for labor.

Again, thanks to everyone for your help, I am now way more educated on this matter and will be able to pick my oil going forward :)
 
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OP referred to an article where the guy is favoring oils with NOACK (he said - Noack?) @6% or less, yeah, how many oils have that low of the NOACK? He gave not a single example either.
I'd say - go with a MB229.52 oil and sleep well.
 
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