Sebring Motorguard

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acewiza

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Here are the pics from one of the more "challenging" Motorguard installations I've recently accomplished:

http://66.17.171.114/PhotoAlbum/Cars/motorguard.htm

The big plastic airbox wasting more than a cubic foot under the hood was the first thing to go. A big clamp, couple of small pieces of metal and a little bolt was all it took to properly do away with it. K&N what?

The mounting bracket turns out to be quite an odd looking contraption. Nice thing about it is it bolts in without any drilling on the car, utilizing existing holes/bolts. Tucks in there quite well. Took me about three hours to fab that up.

The rest of it is just plumbing I'm sure we're all familiar with. Only downside I really saw is the amount of tubing it took. The oil filter under a sandwich adapter which feeds the bypass and a cooler is literally on the opposite side bottom of the motor. The valve cover return is opposite the M30 as well. So there's about 10 or 11 feet of 1/4" i.d. hose between them.

I figure this is probably about the best way to prevent the infamous Chrysler 2.7 from becoming a proverbial "sludgebucket."

Paul
 
Holy smokes you should buy stock in the hose clamp company.

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Yeah, I could've saved about 12 clamps if I'd used the correct adapter for the Tee and a cooler with 1/2" tubing. But I tend to be one those guys that cobbles stuff together with whatever I have laying around before I'll consider buying more parts.

I did the Dodge truck right though, with 90deg. fittings where appropriate, etc...

Cheers!
 
A friend just put a Motor Guard on a F150 and used the full 10' of hose from the battery area across the front of the engine and down to the Perma-Cool sandwich adapter. My friend mounted the filter to something flimsy and it needs to be beefed up. It looks like a plastic box above the battery.
I just sent some to Canada beefed up for frame mounting on Ford Powerstrokes. You can do wonders with some flat stock, large hose clamps and rubber strips to protect the housing. They bolt to the frame in a horizontal position with one grade 8 bolt. I'm lucky that most of the filters I sell are to people that can deal with installations. Unless I have installed a filter on a certain car I don't have a clue. I have to look under the hood. I have never seen under the hood of a Sebring.
I was having a little bit of trouble with the sandwich adapter not heating up the Motor Guard using Amsoil 20-50 in a Chevy powered Farmall tractor. The relief valve in the filter mount seems to have a weaker spring than the Perma-Cool universal 189 sandwich adapter. Perma-Cool has a teflon relief valve plug for Chevy V-8s that solves that problem but the little 2.5 Iron Duke that I took out of a Chevy Celebrity has a very small relief valve. Plugging the stock relief valve and using a universal adapter with a relief valve converts it to a Ford or other system where the relief valve is in the full flow filter instead of the full flow filter mount. I dealt with it the lazy way. I installed a remote filter mount adapter and ran the two 1/4" hoses to the TP filter. It is now the same as a 53 Chevy with no full flow filter. Except the clean oil is returned to the oil pressure instead of the sump. I got hooked on adapters when Frantz had an adapter for everything. I can do it better with Perma-Cool. I didn't invent anything.

Ralph
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Yes Ralph, I think installation is probably the overriding factor preventing everyone from using these things. I mean, otherwise it is a no-brainer, right? Of course, there's the people who say it is just overkill on a passenger vehicle, yada yada...

You can do alot with a wire-feed welder a few pieces of scrap metal and a little imagination. But that is beyond the capability of most of the motoring public. And it is prohibitively expensive to pay someone else to do it for you.

Racers can't go fast enough, trucks can't pull enough weight, and I for one, cannot do enough to help the engine I want to last a long time do just that. You think I used enough hose clamps to mitigate that extra failure point risk?

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Paul
 
I'm not familiar with the hose you are using. Extra clamps won't hurt. I think the filters are over kill for many people that don't keep their rigs very long. You could say the same for synthetic oil. I only run my car about 12,000 miles a year but I might keep the car 20 years. To get the engine life we get with submicronic bypass filters a person would need to drain the oil about every day. It wouldn't be economical. About 20 years ago a guy asked me if 100,000 miles was too many miles to install a filter. I said it depends on how long you plan to keep it. the last I heard he had traded it off with over 500,000 on it. A customer at Cape Canaveral mentioned that the filters are for commercial use only. He said people don't keep cars long enough for them to pay. I think in many cases he is right. We are the exception.

Ralph
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(A Note from Mrs Ralph: Ralph has finished his blood chemo and his cerebrospinal chemo and has had a Pet Scan that showed there was no cancer left. Thanks to all of you that have cared I think most of you know, as I do, what a wonderful and kind person he is. He is one of the ones we surely want to keep around).
 
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Looks good so far. There's about 1k miles on the motor since install. I had to re-route the input line after I realized it was too close to the accessory belt.

The engine compartment is very cramped on these things with the 2.7 stuffed in there. Looked like the best way to go with that was up along the pass side, but could not really see well enough to ensure clearance. Now it runs across the steering and pans on the bottom where it is out of the way of anything possibly coming in contact with it - just a harder/longer way to route it.

I think I'll have an OCI done at some point. Any recommendations there? Never done one before...

v/r

Paul
 
Yeah, I think "will" change the oil at some point.
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What I meant was a "UOA" to help determine when I might want to do that.
 
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