Seal Leaks

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I see that the string is closed on rear main seal leaks. I think everybody got it wrong. Its dirt and oiling system contaminants that cause seal leaks. All it takes is a small amount of crud to get lodged under the lip of the seal and the process begins. Seal failure occurs in stages.
To the eye a poor seal shows up as moisture on the back of the oil pan, but no drops on the ground. Once you get to a seal dripping a puddle, your in pretty tough shape. Its is more likely to be poor maintainance than the oils fault.

To fix a leak with wrenches, first the contaminants must be cleaned out from between the seal and rotating shaft. The seal has likely been held in a position non condusive to working for some time. ARX works great for the cleaning process. Running a mineral oil for at least a 3000 mile interval is recommended for the seal to tighten down on the shaft. Mineral oil tends to have a shrinking or stiffening on the seal material and can help the polymer find its original memory and perform the sealing function.

My best advice is to start the procedure in stage one, not after its already dripping on the ground.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Rick20:
I see that the string is closed on rear main seal leaks. I think everybody got it wrong. Its dirt and oiling system contaminants that cause seal leaks. All it takes is a small amount of crud to get lodged under the lip of the seal and the process begins. Seal failure occurs in stages.
To the eye a poor seal shows up as moisture on the back of the oil pan, but no drops on the ground. Once you get to a seal dripping a puddle, your in pretty tough shape. Its is more likely to be poor maintainance than the oils fault.

To fix a leak with wrenches, first the contaminants must be cleaned out from between the seal and rotating shaft. The seal has likely been held in a position non condusive to working for some time. ARX works great for the cleaning process. Running a mineral oil for at least a 3000 mile interval is recommended for the seal to tighten down on the shaft. Mineral oil tends to have a shrinking or stiffening on the seal material and can help the polymer find its original memory and perform the sealing function.

My best advice is to start the procedure in stage one, not after its already dripping on the ground.


*SIGH*

Yeah, yeah. Did all that. Didn't help. Think you'd be hard-pressed to find someone who's maintained their car more carefully than me.

Again (and again, and again, and again ...), one size does not fit all. I really do wish people would stop trying to say it's so, when it isn't.
 
Grey Seal

Familiar (#6)

Unfamiliar (#12)

rolleyes.gif
 
Agree. sometimes the only cure is to replace teh seal. Been there with the treatments and they also did not work, age is a terrible thing and the best maintenance, best oils still cannot prevent the effects of age on the seals.
 
Before you replace the seal you might want to try a cleaning with Auto-RX. It worked for me. I had a seal leak that would have cost a lot of money to replace in a front wheel drive car (engine would have had to be removed). I tried Valvoline MaxLife (great oil-made my engine run smoother but did nothing for the seal leak). Remember, Valvoline MaxLife is supposed to have a seal conditioner. I tried a product that is supposed to stop seal leaks. Nothing. And then I did two cleanings with Auto-RX and the seal leak stopped. I can't PROVE that Auto-RX stopped the seal leak, but the seal leak stopped after I did the cleaning with Auto-RX.

There are not a lot of supplements and stuff that I believe in anymore. But Auto-RX is on my short list. It seemed to work, saved me money and time, and that is good enough for me.
 
kev99sl
Member
Member # 14

posted 11 September, 2005 22:21
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quote:
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Originally posted by dave1251:
kev99sl dont get mad just get a new seal.
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Why? Switching to Castrol Syntec seems to have "fixed" my "damaged" seal.
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Posts: 285 | From: Chicago | Registered: May 2002 | IP: Logged |


Good for you! That most of saved a pretty penney.
 
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