Seafoam For Last 100 Miles Before Oil Change ?

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How many use Seafoam the last 100 miles (1 oz. per qrt. of oil capacity ) in the oil before an oil change ? I tried it in my Sedona and the before / after oil color was noticeably darker after using the Seafoam ... Makes me believe it did some good removing deposits that various synthetic oils failed to clean ... Your thoughts on using Seafoam before every other oil change as maintenance against engine deposit build up ?
 
Don't use that garbage, it's not going to do anything other than lighten your wallet. Never confuse "no negative effect" with "having a positive effect".
 
I'd pass. If you want something that works fairly quick try Kreen. That's assuming there's something that needs to be cleaned in the first place.
 
I've done it with Marvel Mystery Oil before. Never tried Seafoam. I had a bad experience in the past and I'm afraid of that stuff now.

I don't think putting Marvel Mystery oil in the oil does much of anything either.
 
I wouldn't want a couple ounces of solvent in the oil with the car running.

Doesn't the seafoam can say to idle the engine with seafoam in the oil? I would be OK with that...but not running...
 
Had some leftover Marvel and threw a few ounces in the oil a few hundred miles before changing. Don't think it did enough to warrant buying a new bottle, but didn't seem to hurt anything. I'd be a bit afraid of using Seafoam in this manner.

OTOH-- If it darkened your oil and you think it helps, I doubt if four ounces could hurt anything.
 
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When I had my 2003 Sable LS with the Duratec 3.0, I ran a 5000 mile OCI with a quart of MMO in the crankcase in place of a quart of oil. To make sure that the oil wasn't too thin from the MMO, I upped the oil weight a tad to offset it - 10w40 plus the MMO, instead of the normal 5w30. It came out DARK at the end. Definitely did some cleaning.

Seafoam? No way I would put that in my oil.
 
Originally Posted by SirTanon
When I had my 2003 Sable LS with the Duratec 3.0, I ran a 5000 mile OCI with a quart of MMO in the crankcase in place of a quart of oil. To make sure that the oil wasn't too thin from the MMO, I upped the oil weight a tad to offset it - 10w40 plus the MMO, instead of the normal 5w30. It came out DARK at the end. Definitely did some cleaning.

Seafoam? No way I would put that in my oil.


How many miles did you get out of it? Never did any of that stuff and got over 200k with a 2001 Taurus with the Duratec. Got rid of it when the torque converter went. Engine was still fine. Used mostly 5w20 but occasionally 5w30 when it was on sale. Did between 5-8k oil changes on synthetic blend.
 
Its funny because I have used 3% diesel fuel for the same reason and MMO even longer to dissolve deposits that do not drain out. Solvents like this dissolve varnish around the piston rings, hydraulic lifters and may even loosen up sticking valves. I don't believe you should drive your vehicle with sea-foam in the oil, the reason I limited my fuel-oil experiment to 3-5% as this is common on a UOA.
 
Originally Posted by Wolf359
Originally Posted by SirTanon
When I had my 2003 Sable LS with the Duratec 3.0, I ran a 5000 mile OCI with a quart of MMO in the crankcase in place of a quart of oil. To make sure that the oil wasn't too thin from the MMO, I upped the oil weight a tad to offset it - 10w40 plus the MMO, instead of the normal 5w30. It came out DARK at the end. Definitely did some cleaning.

Seafoam? No way I would put that in my oil.


How many miles did you get out of it? Never did any of that stuff and got over 200k with a 2001 Taurus with the Duratec. Got rid of it when the torque converter went. Engine was still fine. Used mostly 5w20 but occasionally 5w30 when it was on sale. Did between 5-8k oil changes on synthetic blend.


I sold the car at 186,000 miles, still running great with no engine or trans issues. The MMO seemed to do a good job of light cleaning, and did not seem to do any harm. Then again, I didn't really romp on the engine while the MMO was in.. the car was my daily driver commuter, and saw about 90% highway driving betwee 70 and 75 MPH.

The trick is that you replace no more than 20% of your oil volume with MMO.. which in the Duratec 3.0 meant out of the (approximately) 5 quart fill, using no more than 1 qt MMO. Also, IMHO, compensating for the slight thinning by upping the viscosity of the rest of the motor oil just a bit is a good idea, since MMO is quite light (approx. 5 weight).
 
Originally Posted by SirTanon
Originally Posted by Wolf359
Originally Posted by SirTanon
When I had my 2003 Sable LS with the Duratec 3.0, I ran a 5000 mile OCI with a quart of MMO in the crankcase in place of a quart of oil. To make sure that the oil wasn't too thin from the MMO, I upped the oil weight a tad to offset it - 10w40 plus the MMO, instead of the normal 5w30. It came out DARK at the end. Definitely did some cleaning.

Seafoam? No way I would put that in my oil.


How many miles did you get out of it? Never did any of that stuff and got over 200k with a 2001 Taurus with the Duratec. Got rid of it when the torque converter went. Engine was still fine. Used mostly 5w20 but occasionally 5w30 when it was on sale. Did between 5-8k oil changes on synthetic blend.


I sold the car at 186,000 miles, still running great with no engine or trans issues. The MMO seemed to do a good job of light cleaning, and did not seem to do any harm. Then again, I didn't really romp on the engine while the MMO was in.. the car was my daily driver commuter, and saw about 90% highway driving betwee 70 and 75 MPH.

The trick is that you replace no more than 20% of your oil volume with MMO.. which in the Duratec 3.0 meant out of the (approximately) 5 quart fill, using no more than 1 qt MMO. Also, IMHO, compensating for the slight thinning by upping the viscosity of the rest of the motor oil just a bit is a good idea, since MMO is quite light (approx. 5 weight).


Not sure what you mean by romp. I did drive mine hard, that was the nice thing about the Duratec, always had nice pickup so I'd get into it getting onto the highway or pulling away from a toll booth to reach speed quickly. Just saying that all the things you did may have been pointless. Got way more miles than you and never had any issues with the engine either.
 
Originally Posted by Wolf359
Originally Posted by SirTanon
Originally Posted by Wolf359
Originally Posted by SirTanon
When I had my 2003 Sable LS with the Duratec 3.0, I ran a 5000 mile OCI with a quart of MMO in the crankcase in place of a quart of oil. To make sure that the oil wasn't too thin from the MMO, I upped the oil weight a tad to offset it - 10w40 plus the MMO, instead of the normal 5w30. It came out DARK at the end. Definitely did some cleaning.

Seafoam? No way I would put that in my oil.


How many miles did you get out of it? Never did any of that stuff and got over 200k with a 2001 Taurus with the Duratec. Got rid of it when the torque converter went. Engine was still fine. Used mostly 5w20 but occasionally 5w30 when it was on sale. Did between 5-8k oil changes on synthetic blend.


I sold the car at 186,000 miles, still running great with no engine or trans issues. The MMO seemed to do a good job of light cleaning, and did not seem to do any harm. Then again, I didn't really romp on the engine while the MMO was in.. the car was my daily driver commuter, and saw about 90% highway driving betwee 70 and 75 MPH.

The trick is that you replace no more than 20% of your oil volume with MMO.. which in the Duratec 3.0 meant out of the (approximately) 5 quart fill, using no more than 1 qt MMO. Also, IMHO, compensating for the slight thinning by upping the viscosity of the rest of the motor oil just a bit is a good idea, since MMO is quite light (approx. 5 weight).


Not sure what you mean by romp. I did drive mine hard, that was the nice thing about the Duratec, always had nice pickup so I'd get into it getting onto the highway or pulling away from a toll booth to reach speed quickly. Just saying that all the things you did may have been pointless. Got way more miles than you and never had any issues with the engine either.


Romp meaning flooring it, beating on it, etc.. Yes, it had the power, and yes, there were times I gave it a little goose to pass or get out of someone's way, but never really thrashed it.

As far as whether it was pointless or not, I never did it out of necessity.. I did it once mostly out of curiosity after reading another post on here about its potential for cleaning. I bought the car used, after all.. It seemed to do something in terms of cleaning, but it's not like the car really ran any differently afterwards.
 
Seafoam costs a lot for what it is. Mostly alcohol which evaps off quickly ( 170f or so), some naptha and plain oil. I'd use kreen like demarpaint and trav have recommended. I've used kreen on saturn engines. Modern engines just don't seem to need it with normal oil changes. The 70's 80's yes naptha would help clean, in the 80's I used MMO. I don't anymore.
 
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Preventive maintenance is a good thing but I would like to know if you have had a fuel deposit-related problem with this vehicle. Even the cheapest gasoline you can find at the pump still has decent additive package, it's required by law.

And if the color of the oil changed dramatically within a 100-mile window, there is something wrong with your engine. There may be some cleaners out there that are this aggressive, but SeaFoam is not one of them.
 
No , I just did it as an experiment ... Engine uses synthetic oil at 6K mile OCI. Oil was just slightly darker after 100 mile run with Seafoam .
Originally Posted by DGXR
Preventive maintenance is a good thing but I would like to know if you have had a fuel deposit-related problem with this vehicle. Even the cheapest gasoline you can find at the pump still has decent additive package, it's required by law.

And if the color of the oil changed dramatically within a 100-mile window, there is something wrong with your engine. There may be some cleaners out there that are this aggressive, but SeaFoam is not one of them.
 
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