Scan Tool recommendation

I have a AUTEL MaxiPRO MP808. It's highly capable, powerful and easy to navigate. Almost 'paid for itself' after locating and diagnosing its first DTC. smile Data logging ignition timing, ethanol content and STFTs is a hoot...very insightful. Performs ABS bleeds, adaptation resets and minor coding, too.
 
Originally Posted by Leo99
Originally Posted by WagonWheel
The Foxwell NT510 is popular on the Honda boards since it is bidirectional and can reset the TPS on ‘05 J35s, for example. They run about 150$.
Depends how serious you need to get. Learning to use the scan tool for serious diagnostic work is not a trivial matter. Takes some studying to learn what's normal response and what is abnormal and the root cause of the abnormal signals. I've saved a lot ton of money with just the $20 reader and a few hours studying on youtube.
Yes, interpreting the data is another skill in and of itself. Doing something as simple as cleaning the throttle body on a Honda J35 used in 2005+ Odysseys requires a reset of the TPS - a capability I haven't seen on the $20 dongles. That being said, I agree that they are quite useful for many diagnostics. What I would be interested in knowing is how the PID report rates vary on the ELM327 dongles vs. the professional scan/logging tools in the $400-$2000 range. I saw a YT video of a guy diagnosing a bad cat using a snap-on tool / tablet to display live O2 sensor data and other parameters as he adjusted the fuel/air mixture. He was able to zoom in to very small changes of O2 data output (sorry, don't recall the specifics) but the granularity displayed by the snap-on tool allowed hm to come to a conclusion. Of course his knowledge and skill set came into play, but I'm curious if something like a Blue Driver can capture/report data to such detail.
 
Originally Posted by splinter
Data logging ... ethanol content
Scantool displays a gauge indicating Alcohol content. It reports zero content. I use Shell regular, so I am suspicious of that.Temperature gauge indicates 160 F, but idiot indicator indicates engine is warm - 4 out of 8 bars. MPG gauge shows 40 trip MPG but when I do the math, I get 37 MPG. Maybe the gas station is pumping less gas than the pump reports.
 
Originally Posted by Pelican
Get yourself a Blue Driver $99.00 amazing what it can do do a search and you'll see.
This is what I use and it has served me very well.
 
Originally Posted by zmelli
I read a review on a bidirectional scan tool where the user was able to discover that one of his O2 sensors were not performing correctly. This was on a 1998 CRV, his car was running sluggish and he did not have any check engine light . He would have never been able to detect the out of tolerance O2 sensor with the basic scan tool. Now I need to find that review.
hey zmelli! I had that exact scenario on my 96 Civic. It's called OBD-2 "mode 6". In mode 6, you can evaluate how the tested result has moved within the allowed range of values.. This can indicate a slowly dying o2 sensor but not enough to have completely failed and have the CEL (check engine light) come on. When I was looking at a defective o2 sensor mine was at the lower end of the range in mode 6 on my obd2 scanner.. But when I tested the sensor directly with a multimeter, it showed infinity for the resistance! clearly it had already died! so at least the scanner pointed me in the right direction! my obd2 scanner I got from harbor freight, and it does read all obd2 modes, including mode 6. so it wasn't really a bi-directional scan just another mode the computer (ecu) was reporting. had to jump in here since you were describing exactly what happened to me! hope that helps ya!
 
I bought a OBDLink LX Bluetooth several years ago. Did not work well w/Linux. I am now using the LX w/ Fire 8 HD Tablet running the scantool OBD-II car diagnostics software that I downloaded from Amazon Prime for Free. Wondering if that free software is identical to the Software that is downloaded from Scantool. I am not going to upgrade the scanner until I am more familiar with using the software. Might upgrade to OBDLink MX+ or Blue Driver. I selected Logs > Graphs which does not do anything. Trip Stats, and Trips work. Files seems to work. Does the LX display all error codes for Ford, or do I need something else to do that? What is Forscan? is it hardware, software or both. If software what do I need to run it?
 
Originally Posted by zmelli
I stumbled across this company that makes vehicle specific scnners. https://www.amazon.com/iCarsoft-Dia...L69G/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 Not very good reviews on the earlier models. Foxwell and bluedriver seem good.
For all those pushing Blue Driver, be very careful that it actually works on your car. I looked into it and although it says it supports Mercedes when you drill down into it, it just does basic OBDII codes and not manufacturer specific codes. Things like stability control, SRS, transmission, keyless go, and other subsystems aren't listed. I like the Autel Diaglink, about $85 and supports one car line and does all subsystems. It's a cheaper version of their MD802 that does all car lines but costs $178. You can add an additional car line for $10. https://www.amazon.com/Autel-Diaglink-Systems-Diagnostic-Transmission/dp/B07QS9VH8V Foxwell and iCarsoft are also decent scanners that will do all subsystems.
 
Update to my thread. LET THIS BE A WARNING! I purchased a Foxwell NT530 with Honda/Acura software. I ordered directly from the Foxwell website, shipped straight from China DHL in about 6 days. I updated the software and ran out to my 2006 Acura TSX and scanned my car. After waiting about ten minutes for the full system scan only six functions were applicable to my car. I had 1 DTC error code in the VSA/SRS module. DTC 84-1 was the error, I proceeded to clear the code, BIG-Mistake! The VSA Zero position memorization data is stored in the same location as the DTC codes on my car. I had a new problem with communication with the VSA module over 30MPH. Sure enoughf a big red VSA warning on my cluster after going over 30MPH. I also got the orange triangle in the dash. After some research I found out that this was a common problem after clearing DTC-84-1. Hats off to BlueDriver for sending my the Fix.

VSA neutral position setting

Do not touch the brake pedal anymore.

1) Jump pins 4 & 9.
2) Turn the ignition on, after ABS light turns off, quickly press the "VSA off" button.
3) After ABS light turns on again, quickly press the "VSA off" button.
4) Now shoud be a lot of different blinks and fashes and all lights ABS, VSA and triangle sh
 
will the Blue Driver do anything that the cheap ELM types won't do???...I have access to an ELM and an App but have been thinking of getting my own Blue Driver...

thanks for any information or experience yo care to share

Bill
 
silversport said:
will the Blue Driver do anything that the cheap ELM types won't do???...I have access to an ELM and an App but have been thinking of getting my own Blue Driver...

thanks for any information or experience yo care to share

Bill
Click to expand...
I have seen some reports stating that the cheap ELM can short out and damage your computer. I would get the Bluedriver. look on youtube for the reviews.
 
https://obdsolaris.com/bluedriver/


The Bluedriver Bluetooth scanner does not use ELM327 technology. That means the BlueDriver is not bi-directional and cannot communicate with your car. All this scanner does is read the information that is there and give advice on how to fix the problems.


So for mechanics and car owners who need a device to perform bi-directional functions like brake bleeding, the Bluedriver is not for you.
 
zzyzzx said:
https://obdsolaris.com/bluedriver/


The Bluedriver Bluetooth scanner does not use ELM327 technology. That means the BlueDriver is not bi-directional and cannot communicate with your car. All this scanner does is read the information that is there and give advice on how to fix the problems.


So for mechanics and car owners who need a device to perform bi-directional functions like brake bleeding, the Bluedriver is not for you.
Click to expand...
Look at the thinkdriver it is bi-directional and only $89.00
 
the cheap ELM type I have borrowed from a buddy has never given me any issues in the several years I have used it on GM and Ford vehicles...I was just wondering if the Blue Driver did more...I'll keep looking around on their website

Bill
 
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