Saturn 1.9 engine tear down - Rotella T4 oil

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Figured I'd ask before the work begins - would anyone be interested in photos of a 1.9 Saturn dohc teardown? I assembled this engine for my 2001 SL2 in Feb-March 12' on a $200 budget and it has about 15k on it. Like most 1.9's, it consumed oil and developed a leak somewhere on the back of the motor, not at the vc gasket. It also did not live an easy life, and was pushed to 7-8k rpm's every once in a while. I kept an eye on it until after working long hours one week, I let the oil level dip too low and was rewarded with a knocking. I had a surplus of Rotella T4 oil, between buying some on sale, and acquiring some via bartering. So that's all this engine has ever had in it's pan. It'll be rebuilt with aftermarket pistons that have real oil drainback holes, and other updates as well.
 

Fordtrucktexan

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Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
sure pictures would be nice but your secret in rebuilding an engine with only $200.00 is what im after lol
Easy - re-use everything that isn't broke. IIRC, I only bought a new head gasket, rear main seal, had a good cylinder head decked (no valve job or anything else), re machined a crankshaft that had spun a #2 bearing, and of course bought all new bearings to go with it. I re-used just about everything else. The piston rings were from a good running, non-smoking Saturn 1.9 I had torn down with 140k on it. I had a low mile timing assembly from another motor, including cam gears, etc. Saturn 1.9's don't have many replacable gaskets either, the timing cover, rear main seal housing, and oil pan gasket are all RTV. Also re-used a low mile clutch. Pulled the motor and trans with the driver axle still in place so I didn't have to drain the transmission fluid either.
 
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You reused rings? Okay... I'd have gone new aftermarket to get stiffer, springier ones that can "break through" the sludge and muck to properly control oil. They still sell T4 at Woolworth's by the Size B batteries, don't let the haters hate. wink I redid the SOHC 1.9 in my wagon with perfect circle rings and pretty much stopped the burning for another eight years. But, cheapo me, I used generic RTV from "Big Lots" and the timing cover started getting weepy again. blush
 
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Originally Posted By: Fordtrucktexan
It'll be rebuilt with aftermarket pistons that have real oil drainback holes, and other updates as well.
you do know you can drill oil return holes in there if you have a steady hand right? I have done this on 8 Engines already with success, don't waste your money on aftermarket pistons unless yours are in BAD shape. 1zz-fe with 356k, had "okay" looking pistons, drilled additional holes and re-drilled original ones with OEM size drill bit, the engine runs like a champ. People waste too much money on aftermarket parts when there is no need, I can assure you that your pistons are of high quality otherwise they wouldn't have lasted that long.
 
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Fordtrucktexan

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Originally Posted By: 01_celica_gt
Originally Posted By: Fordtrucktexan
It'll be rebuilt with aftermarket pistons that have real oil drainback holes, and other updates as well.
you do know you can drill oil return holes in there if you have a steady hand right? I have done this on 8 Engines already with success, don't waste your money on aftermarket pistons unless yours are in BAD shape. 1zz-fe with 356k, had "okay" looking pistons, drilled additional holes and re-drilled original ones with OEM size drill bit, the engine runs like a champ. People waste too much money on aftermarket parts when there is no need, I can assure you that your pistons are of high quality otherwise they wouldn't have lasted that long.
I've read the procedures on this, and it's not something I'm willing to try at the risk of busting a ring land. Plus, I already have a set of Sealed Power .020 over pistons that were used for 3k miles on another 1991-1998 1.9. Downside is I'll have to buy the correct rods since they're different length for 98' and older (I only have 99'+ rods in my stock).
 
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Definitely post some pics! I've got a 2000 DOHC 1.9 sitting in the garage with a hole in the block. One of these days I'll get around to tearing it down and harvesting any usable parts. I got my 2000 SC2 with a blown engine and found a used 2002 engine for it.
 
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Originally Posted By: Fordtrucktexan
Originally Posted By: 01_celica_gt
Originally Posted By: Fordtrucktexan
It'll be rebuilt with aftermarket pistons that have real oil drainback holes, and other updates as well.
you do know you can drill oil return holes in there if you have a steady hand right? I have done this on 8 Engines already with success, don't waste your money on aftermarket pistons unless yours are in BAD shape. 1zz-fe with 356k, had "okay" looking pistons, drilled additional holes and re-drilled original ones with OEM size drill bit, the engine runs like a champ. People waste too much money on aftermarket parts when there is no need, I can assure you that your pistons are of high quality otherwise they wouldn't have lasted that long.
I've read the procedures on this, and it's not something I'm willing to try at the risk of busting a ring land. Plus, I already have a set of Sealed Power .020 over pistons that were used for 3k miles on another 1991-1998 1.9. Downside is I'll have to buy the correct rods since they're different length for 98' and older (I only have 99'+ rods in my stock).
if you were here in STL, I would have done that for you, for nothing...waste of perfectly good pistons and rods!
 
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Originally Posted By: 01_celica_gt
Originally Posted By: Fordtrucktexan
Originally Posted By: 01_celica_gt
Originally Posted By: Fordtrucktexan
It'll be rebuilt with aftermarket pistons that have real oil drainback holes, and other updates as well.
you do know you can drill oil return holes in there if you have a steady hand right? I have done this on 8 Engines already with success, don't waste your money on aftermarket pistons unless yours are in BAD shape. 1zz-fe with 356k, had "okay" looking pistons, drilled additional holes and re-drilled original ones with OEM size drill bit, the engine runs like a champ. People waste too much money on aftermarket parts when there is no need, I can assure you that your pistons are of high quality otherwise they wouldn't have lasted that long.
I've read the procedures on this, and it's not something I'm willing to try at the risk of busting a ring land. Plus, I already have a set of Sealed Power .020 over pistons that were used for 3k miles on another 1991-1998 1.9. Downside is I'll have to buy the correct rods since they're different length for 98' and older (I only have 99'+ rods in my stock).
if you were here in STL, I would have done that for you, for nothing...waste of perfectly good pistons and rods!
He could ship them to you with a prepaid return label. I would to save some money.
 
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Originally Posted By: qdeezie
He could ship them to you with a prepaid return label. I would to save some money.
I don't mind, it would take me about 30 minutes for 4 pistons.
 
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Originally Posted By: 01_celica_gt
Originally Posted By: qdeezie
He could ship them to you with a prepaid return label. I would to save some money.
I don't mind, it would take me about 30 minutes for 4 pistons.
Classy man. Very classy.
 

Fordtrucktexan

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If I didn't have the Sealed Power pistons laying around, I'd probably drill the stockers too. Even if I screwed up, I have two or three sets of 99+ 1.9 DOHC piston/rods laying around that are usable. I've rebuilt a bunch of these engines, it's about as straight forward and as simple as it gets. Great motor for a first time builder to learn on. It'll probably be after the holidays before I get time to tear into it, but will post pics then.
 
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While i have no fear of rebuilding a saturn engine. How hard, and time consuming is removing the engine? Thinking or rebuilding my sons sc1 sohc 5 speed and putting in a new clutch.
 

Fordtrucktexan

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Originally Posted By: spasm3
While i have no fear of rebuilding a saturn engine. How hard, and time consuming is removing the engine? Thinking or rebuilding my sons sc1 sohc 5 speed and putting in a new clutch.
What year SC1? On my 01' SL2, I can have the motor out in as little as 1.5 hours, but if I'm not in a hurry, about 3 hours (breaks and actually caring where all the bolts end up). It's extremely simple to remove the engine and transmission together. There's two crowds, those that pull it from the top, and those that drop it from the bottom. Both claim their way is the easiest. I've never had room or patience to jack up the car high enough to drop a motor out from the bottom, all of my pulls have been from the top. Although not detailed, here's the general procedure I follow Jack car up, remove front wheels drain radiator, remove hoses auto transmission, disconnect cooler hoses, either drain transmission fluid, or loop hoses together with rubber hose and clamps remove serpentine belt remove ac compressor, set to side with hoses still attached unbolt exhaust downpipe from manifold and engine block disconnect after-cat o2 sensor (connector on subframe by steering rack) disconnect cooling fan electrical connector remove battery, tray, and disconnect battery cables from chassis and fuse box (00+ cars, disconnect and remove PCM from battery tray) disconnect throttle, fuel, and shift linkages (if manual, make a point to put the keepers in a safe location, they're getting hard to find in junkyards) remove passenger axle, driver side optional (it can come out with motor, or just drain the trans fluid via the lower drain plug and remove the driver axle to make the pull easier) 91-99 cars, disconnect the pcm harness from pcm under dash, and remove driver fender liner to detach the harness from the body. unbolt the under hood fuse box to disconnect the harness. set on top of motor to avoid damaging the harness. 00+ cars, pcm would have been removed when battery tray was removed. use floor jack and block of wood to support engine via oil pan unbolt transmission lower mount from transmission unbolt and remove transmission torgue mount unbolt and remove driver side torque mount (below crank pulley) unbolt and remove driver side top axis mount raise engine slightly, and remove power steering pump from engine (4 bolts, IIRC) and set aside. Disconnect electrical connector from pump Attach load leveler, connect engine hoist, and raise engine, checking for connections, adjusting for clearance, and remove from vehicle I'm sure I'm forgetting something, but you get the idea. Here's a few pulls I took pics of from my shop and home jobs. [img]https://scontent-a-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hpho...amp;oe=54FA7582[/img] [img]https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/h...69c3a8d63cc08f6[/img] [img]https://scontent-a-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hpho...amp;oe=54FEABD7[/img] [img]https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/h...54a3180a15e0c58[/img] [img]https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/h...ad9d52eefb46cc6[/img] [img]https://scontent-a-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hpho...amp;oe=54F9E941[/img]
 
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