Same oil all year around?

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Jul 16, 2003
Palouse WA
My winters here are mild seldom down into the teens and usually around 0 degrees F Summers are usually hot with temps in the 90's and 100's for extended periods of time. Was wondering if it would be safe to use the same weight of oil all the time? And what would be a good weight for a new 86 toyota engine?
Can you be more specific? Do you prefer dino or synthetic and if the latter are you willing to order (eg Redline or Amsoil) or do you want to go off the shelf?
Oh sorry [Razz] I have been known to rattle and not think.......... Looking at Schaeffers 7000 series of oil Probably go 5k or 6 months and do a UOA and see where I stand with that engine.
You'll probably find the 10w30 works fine all year. If you're concerned about those temps in the teens, use the BobZoil 5w30. Either should work well.
K2; Sure you can use the same grade of oil all year. Multi-grade means: an oil that passes more than one SAE viscosity grade. Does a person have to run the same grade or multi-grade all year round for engine lubrication performance? I don't think so. Why then do the North American auto makers typically specify only one grade or multi-grade engine oil and work with the API and other governing bodies for current model lubricant service classifications? 1. To "idiot proof" the public. 2. To achieve fleet fuel consumption goals. 3. To protect the engines and the emission controls. 4. To protect against warranty claims 5. All of the above.
You could run any 0w/5w/10w-30 all year round where you live it sounds. I think Amsoil 0w-30 or German Castrol 0w-30 are good oils for all year round IMO.
My kid's 87/22R has about 350,000 miles on it using HDMO 15W40 in summer and 10W30 in the winter. Quite often I'll use what-ever I just drained out of a newer vehicle instead of buying oil for the YO. My trickle down system. I use the chrysler type V8 filters PH-8 equiv. 4.3 v-6 Chev going in next year. Got the heads done 1.94/1.6 stainless, guide plates. All I need now is a even fire 4.3 crank that ain't broke. 4.10 gear with 255/85/16s 4.3 will be 9.25:1 208/214 109 sep 107 ICL -3/31 38/-4 1.6/1.5 rockers .447/.450 lift 600 edelbrock, 'lectric pump so it can run upside down.
[Off Topic!] userfriendly.....will you be running headers on the 4.3 (most 4.3 users don't use headers, so I've noticed)? If not, you probably won't gain anything by going to 1.6's on the intake side.
The 4.3 core we bought for 50 bucks had a 2500 stall converter bolted to it and some 1.625" OD shorty headers that should fit anything. Contrary to opopular opinion, I like shorties as opposed to long headers. Why? Because they are not rpm sensitive. They will not do anything stellar at any particular rpm range, but in turn they will not cause any bad effects in between. If you reduce primary pipe length, say cut in in half, there will be twice as many pressure pulses. Both good ones, low pressure, and bad ones, high pressure. BUT; Those pulses will be half the strength that the long header produced. Gearhead, your right about the 1.6 intake rocker not helping unless the exhaust side is improved in kind. That is why the 1.6 exhaust valve and 6 degree added exhaust duration on the cam at .050". Advancing the cam helps the intake breathing, but hurts the exhaust scavanging cycle during overlap. Quite often people see no improvment when they increase intake rocker ratio until they take out the cam advance, helping the exhaust. Look at it this way. Increasing the intake rocker ratio lifts the intake valve faster making the engine think the cam is advanced more. The split overlap position ends up more towards BTDC, or advanced. Too much advance= no HP, just torque.
[Off Topic!] shortys actually have been proven to make slightly more horsepower on a dyno than full equal length headers......but much lower torque. I have mixed 1.6's on the intake and exhaust side of SBC's many times and haven't had positive results as of yet. Although I have had good results switching both sides to 1.6's. But then again, I am a little cam - big head kind of guy. Good Luck with your combo. [Smile]
There is no luck involved. When you put 1.6 rockers only on the intake side you effectivly advanced the valve timing. A large engine, under-cammed with poor breathing heads, or a restricted engine could bennifit from a higher ratio intake rocker with no other changes. In your case you have good heads on a medium sized engine. If you advance your valve timing and increase the opening rate of your intake valve, all you are doing is slowing down your intake port velocity killing any ram-effect you may have had. Higher ratio rockers on both intake and exhaust makes the engine think it has a cam with a more agressive lobe(s) on it and does not change the valve split overlap position.
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