Safe to use XG9688 on a Hyundai?

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Hey Everyone, I picked up a Fram Ultra (XG9688) at wally world the other day and I'm a little worried about using a non OEM filter on my Sonata. I know the OEM filter has a high bypass relief setting compared to other brands. That being said my understanding is that Fram Ultras are very good filters. Is there anything to worry about? -Thanks
 
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No need to use anything else. OEM Hyundai filter is high quality and cheap. I do not think it will cause any problem if you choose that though.
 

dnewton3

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Originally Posted By: Swift101
Hey Everyone, I picked up a Fram Ultra (XG9688) at wally world the other day and I'm a little worried about using a non OEM filter on my Sonata. .... my understanding is that Fram Ultras are very good filters. Is there anything to worry about? -Thanks
Yes, there is. Wasting a premium filter by throwing it away too soon. Unfortunately, you're likley bound by a OEM O/FCI schedule that precludes longer runs for warranty purposes. As for your other question, you have chosen the correct filter for the application, so it will be safe to use. Why would you even remotely expect otherwise? Why ask the question? Are you concerned that your 5k mile OCI of Mobil 1 and the FU filter are a risk? Ironic that you're concerned about the non-OEM filter, but the non-OEM use of lube doesn't phase you? Huge Waste is unavoidable given your current state. If that does not bother you, then sleep tight with no worry.
 
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Originally Posted By: Swift101
Hey Everyone, I picked up a Fram Ultra (XG9688) at wally world the other day and I'm a little worried about using a non OEM filter on my Sonata. I know the OEM filter has a high bypass relief setting compared to other brands. That being said my understanding is that Fram Ultras are very good filters. Is there anything to worry about? -Thanks
I've used ToughGuards without issue and Ultra's are their premium model. I see no issue.
 
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Originally Posted By: dnewton3
... Why ask the question? ...
Probably because there is a TSB on start up rattle that says to install an OEM filter if a non OEM is installed as the first step.
 

Swift101

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Thanks everyone for the input, basically I'm only concerned about start up rattle, I'll give it a shot and see how it goes.
 
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Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
... Why ask the question? ...
Probably because there is a TSB on start up rattle that says to install an OEM filter if a non OEM is installed as the first step.
This. It has been mentioned here several times that they are picky with filters. Doesn't seem to be the case.. but nevertheless a constant concern. The Ultra is a good filter for your application and you could get away with running it a second or 3rd OCI. (The one on my moms car is on its second run which will be 7500 miles) So far I have been getting mine for "free" with AAP codes.. If I was unable to do that, I would probably go with a TG for the 7500 mile OCI. Reusing filters sure makes for a quicker and cleaner oil change too! laugh
 
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Originally Posted By: MobilinHyundia
I have done several 15000 mile oci's with non OEM oil filters....no problems at all. That TSB belong in the trash bin!
Same here, concerning aftermarket filters.
 
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Few would debate the ability of the FU for 15k miles. However, I believe the point dnewton has made is important as regards maintaining vehicle warranty. Hyundai/Kia do not have 15k fci intervals, afaik 7500 is max in non severe driving. And based on my reading of both the Hyundai and Kia om's the severe driving profile is very inclusive, ie., includes many items that other manufacturers don't. So if one chooses to run an FU up to 15k over two oci's, the vehicle warranty is being placed in jeopardy should something happen to the engine. As long as one is aware of that possibility then one is informed and has assumed the risk. The other point being made is using an FU for 5-7.5k is underutilized, and roi is not optimal. But if money is no object, and maximizing roi not a priority, then FU should work fine.
 
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Originally Posted By: sayjac
Hyundai/Kia do not have 15k fci intervals, afaik 7500 is max in non severe driving. And based on my reading of both the Hyundai and Kia om's the severe driving profile is very inclusive, ie., includes many items that other manufacturers don't.
Here are the determinates you site regarding Normal V Severe for Hyundai: If any of the first five options is selected, then oil changes are recommended at every 3.750 (3,000 turbo) miles. If the "none of the above" option is selected, then oil changes are recommended at every 7,500 (4,800 turbo) miles. See owner's manual for exceptions. Repeated short-distance driving (less than 5-10 miles), or extended periods of low-speed driving or extensive engine idling. Driving on unpaved, gravel, muddy, rough, dusty or sandy roadways or roadways where salt or other corrosive materials are being used. Driving in heavy stop and go traffic, especially in temperatures above 90°F. Driving with heavy load or workload on the vehicle such as towing, mountain roads, or commercial use. Driving for a prolonged period in cold temperatures and/or extremely humid climates. Ever since new road construction commenced on my route to work, this pertains to me.
 
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Yes and there's also a 6 month max whichever comes first in addition to the miles recommendation. So as said, nowhere near putting the FU to max use while under H/K warranty if following the OM oci/fci recomendation.
 
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Originally Posted By: wemay
Originally Posted By: sayjac
Hyundai/Kia do not have 15k fci intervals, afaik 7500 is max in non severe driving. And based on my reading of both the Hyundai and Kia om's the severe driving profile is very inclusive, ie., includes many items that other manufacturers don't.
Here are the determinates you site regarding Normal V Severe for Hyundai: If any of the first five options is selected, then oil changes are recommended at every 3.750 (3,000 turbo) miles. If the "none of the above" option is selected, then oil changes are recommended at every 7,500 (4,800 turbo) miles. See owner's manual for exceptions. Repeated short-distance driving (less than 5-10 miles), or extended periods of low-speed driving or extensive engine idling. Driving on unpaved, gravel, muddy, rough, dusty or sandy roadways or roadways where salt or other corrosive materials are being used. Driving in heavy stop and go traffic, especially in temperatures above 90°F. Driving with heavy load or workload on the vehicle such as towing, mountain roads, or commercial use. Driving for a prolonged period in cold temperatures and/or extremely humid climates. Ever since new road construction commenced on my route to work, this pertains to me.
Heck this makes me wonder if moms is severe or not. Our road has recently been paved but it gets short tripped daily. It sees 2+ 60 mile round trips a week though.
 
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Originally Posted By: sayjac
Yes and there's also a 6 month max whichever comes first in addition to the miles recommendation. So as said, nowhere near putting the FU to max use while under H/K warranty if following the OM oci/fci recomendation.
I think the time aspect of an oil change from the manufacturer is pure boloney anyway - it's a major CYA on their part IMO. Many here have done UOAs on oil that it 1~2 years old but with low mileage put on it, like 2K~3K over that time period. The key is to ensure the engine gets to full operating temp for quite awhile, especially before parking for extended periods.
 
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I agree that Hyundai/Kia 6 month max oci/fci is too short. Hondas 1 year max seems fairly reasonable to me under warranty, and they also have an MM to help out before that. The problem is if one ignores the H/K recommendation the long engine powertrain warranty could be put at risk. Perhaps unlikely but a consideration nonetheless. It's why if one isn't getting miles in the 6 months, using synthetic oil can be fairly wasteful let alone using a long fci synthetic filter like the Ultra. One of the caveats of the H/K warranty.
 

dnewton3

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The O/FCI limits are a CYA on the part of the OEM; we all know that. We have plenty of evidence that both the lube and the filter have zero idea how old they are. The OEM durations are set at the lowest common denominator. Severity has very little to do with actual wear, I'm learning. I've seen and studied, quite literally, well over 10,000 UOAs and see no real correlation for such claims. And if correlation is not there, then causation is absent, too. Again - it's a CYA move by the OEM. I am currently working on first-hand studies for my MGMs that will bring this to light. Severity is over-blown. About the ONLY thing I would concur that could be an issue is severe ingestion of fine dust; but a good air filter that is left in place will take care of that. What the OEMs know for sure is that a fresh filter and lube change won't really hurt an engine. And since they do not bare those costs, they don't really care how much you pay to keep their warranty intact. Some OEMs are realizing that it's good policy to safely extend the OCIs. I'm not talking about wildly overrunning them, but safe extensions. The IOLMs are a step towards really managing the sump, rather than just having some silly arbitrary number. I will accept that the OEM has a TSB out for using the OEM filter for start-up rattle, but I would ask this of the OEM: Just what exists in your filter that solves the rattle, that other good filters don't have? What feature is in your can, that does not exist in another brand? Silicone ABDV? What? Come on; lets be serious here. That, too, is just a ploy to sell more OEM stuff. I am supposed to believe that the OEM filter magically solves an issue that a PureOne, TG, FU, D+ or some other good filter would not? Puh-leeze ..... shrug If the OEM filter is so darn great, then someone please cut one open and let's examine the magic for all to see!
 
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I have an oil change coming up, I will get one of those hf cutters and take pics to put up here along with a Denso Japan filter.
 
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