SAE 30 vs 10w60

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Since I'm planning on running Valvoline straight 30 in my Chrysler through the winter I've been comparing its cold temp vis (cSt) to some multi-grade oils.

At what temp temp (F) do you think Castrol 10w60 starts being thinner than Valvoline SAE 30?

The correct answer is: 15F.
 
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Didn't look up either, just guessed. Gonna tell us the answer?




Yes, but it would be a bit premature at this point.

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I thought you were going to blend in some ACD?




I am, 1 in 5, 20% ratio.
 
I couldn't find any info on Castrol's 10W-60 so I couldn't calculate it out to get the right answer. I just took a guess, and hopefully I've learned something from you pro's and hit the right answer.

Regards,
paul...
 
When you say you are using a straight 30 grade oil do you mean a mineral based or synthetic based oil? A synthetic based "straight" 30 grade oil will have the cool operating properties of a 10W30 grade mineral based oil.

aehaas
 
G-man, you must like SAE 30! The lure to use only SAE 30 makes sense. But in this day & age of technologically advanced formulations, I believe the multi-vis oils make more sense, even in lawnmowers and other items where straight-weight oils are the only thing recommended by the mfr.

Then again, BITOG would be a boring place if folks only used oils that were recommended in the owner's manual?!?!?
 
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When you say you are using a straight 30 grade oil do you mean a mineral based or synthetic based oil? A synthetic based "straight" 30 grade oil will have the cool operating properties of a 10W30 grade mineral based oil.




Valvoline SAE 30 is made from Group II. As for synthetic SAE 30, you are correct that Amsoil's ACD does meet the CCV specs for a 10w30, but I don't think I would say that every synthetic SAE 30 would. (But the three that I know of do, nemely, RLI, Redline, and Amsoil.)
 
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G-man, you must like SAE 30! The lure to use only SAE 30 makes sense. But in this day & age of technologically advanced formulations, I believe the multi-vis oils make more sense, even in lawnmowers and other items where straight-weight oils are the only thing recommended by the mfr.




A modern straight 30 that meets API SM is just as "technologically advanced" as a multigrade that meets API SM, it just doesn't have VI improvers. And the bottom end of the 3.5 in my Chrysler likes SAE 30 better than any weight oil I've tried in it.
 
Wouldn't the VI improvers help cold starting? Using Chevron Delo 400 15w-40 in my Saturn was a challenge a few years ago when it was 9°F that cold morning. By this experience, I would think that a straight 30wt would have a tougher time in such cold weather.

The other question: would a straight-weight create more startup wear (in warm or cold months) since it takes longer for it to reach the top of the engine?
 
Hmmm. Now there is a choice. I took an educated guess at the temperature.

Given that chart that you posted a few days ago G-Man, the percentage of VII's is low enough that I wouldn't have a problem running either of these oils in a vehicle. You will let us know the results of the poll, plus the answer in time, right?!?
wink.gif
 
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Using Chevron Delo 400 15w-40 in my Saturn was a challenge a few years ago when it was 9°F that cold morning. By this experience, I would think that a straight 30wt would have a tougher time in such cold weather.




Delo 400 15w-40
@ 9 deg F = 6220 Cst

Valvoline Conventional Premium SAE 30
@ 9 deg F = 4442 Cst

better still:
Valvoline Maxlife SAE 30
@ 9 Deg F = 3678 Cst
 
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Using Chevron Delo 400 15w-40 in my Saturn was a challenge a few years ago when it was 9°F that cold morning. By this experience, I would think that a straight 30wt would have a tougher time in such cold weather.




Delo 400 15w-40
@ 9 deg F = 6220 Cst

Valvoline Conventional Premium SAE 30
@ 9 deg F = 4442 Cst

better still:
Valvoline Maxlife SAE 30
@ 9 Deg F = 3678 Cst




too bad i have no idea what cst numbers mean. i am assuming since you said better yet, that less is better?

can you put this in to context for me? give me some common cst reading for 5W-30 oils, like mobil clean and mobil 1 and penz plat and maxlife. i am curious.

thanks!
 
The local Napa has Maxlife 30w. Thinking of buying to add to stash.
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I am still waiting for Maxlife 5w20. Which I believe is long overdue. There are tons of outfits spec'd for 5w20 with over 75000 miles.
 
It may be better to say that the lower the viscosity the less honey-like the oil. Oil is always too thick below the nominal operating temperature, usually around 200 F for normal passenger cars. If the engine was designed to run an oil at a viscosity of 10 or 11 cS then 2,344 or 6,500 is thick as mud and lubrication will suffer.

aehaas
 
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It may be better to say that the lower the viscosity the less honey-like the oil. Oil is always too thick below the nominal operating temperature, usually around 200 F for normal passenger cars. If the engine was designed to run an oil at a viscosity of 10 or 11 cS then 2,344 or 6,500 is thick as mud and lubrication will suffer.

aehaas




Correct. The ideal oil would be one with a VI of 1000 where the vis is 12 at 100C and 12 at -40C and no VI improvers.
 
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A modern straight 30 that meets API SM is just as "technologically advanced" as a multigrade that meets API SM, it just doesn't have VI improvers. And the bottom end of the 3.5 in my Chrysler likes SAE 30 better than any weight oil I've tried in it.




G-Man, I have a Chrysler 3.5 also. Why do you say it "likes" the SAE 30? Can you post a link to a previous post or UOA?? Seems kinda scary to run that over winter--perhaps I'll review the datasheet...
 
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A modern straight 30 that meets API SM is just as "technologically advanced" as a multigrade that meets API SM, it just doesn't have VI improvers. And the bottom end of the 3.5 in my Chrysler likes SAE 30 better than any weight oil I've tried in it.




G-Man, I have a Chrysler 3.5 also. Why do you say it "likes" the SAE 30? Can you post a link to a previous post or UOA?? Seems kinda scary to run that over winter--perhaps I'll review the datasheet...




If you have a 3.5 you know how it immediately revs to 1500 rpm when you first start it up before settling down to a normal idle. This has always caused some bearing rattle on mine with every grade of oil I've ever tried except SAE 30. With straight 30 I don't get any bearing rattle at start up. That's all I meant. UOAs will come later.
 
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