S2000 - Will 9000 rpm and M1 0W30 AFE be ok?

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Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
What about the regular M1 10W30 (not the hm version)?


M1 10w30 doesn't have the high HTHS and ZDDP content of M1 HM.
 
Originally Posted By: ExMachina
Originally Posted By: weasley
Originally Posted By: ExMachina
Since higher RPMs means the S2000 is operating to the far right on the Stribeck curve, your 0w-30 is perfect for this engine. 6 month oil changes, don't even count miles, time is better.


So the WHOLE engine is operating "to the far right of the Stribeck curve" because the crankshaft is rotating (briefly) at 9,000 rpm?! Even at 9,000 rpm, the pistons still come to a complete stop twice per stroke and the camshaft is only turning at 4,500 rpm.

The Stribeck curve is a theoretical model to model friction at a given moment under known conditions. At any given moment in a running engine, there are a number of different surfaces being put under different conditions and so the whole engine is all over the Stribeck curve at the same time. It can not be used as an oil selection tool.


It can and should be used as an oil selection tool. Engineers do it all the time. Its not theoretical, as the friction is actual engine run measurements, or whatever physical cam/lobe interface device you might have for it. Corresponds with oil film thickness, which, again, isn't theoretical but REAL. I do agree with your statements about some parts of the engine are always on the left side of the Stribeck no matter what, like wrist (gudgeon) pins at times, TDC & BDC cylinder walls and rings, sure. Understand thats in all engines all the time, so no news there. It goes without saying.

Like Shannow pointed out, it does make sense to consider the inertia loading. Thats a valid discussion. Hard to say how the torque (combustion) part of journal bearing loads compares to the inertia loads, but in high rpm engines, it could be way up there.


I once did bearing load calculations on a diesel test engine I was developing back in the early '90's. The peak combustion pressure force was 71,000 pounds at 2600 psi firing pressure, and the peak TDC inertial load was 5600 pounds at 2600 rpm. And this was with a piston & conrod assembly that weighed ~28 pounds.
 
Originally Posted By: A_Harman


I once did bearing load calculations on a diesel test engine I was developing back in the early '90's. The peak combustion pressure force was 71,000 pounds at 2600 psi firing pressure, and the peak TDC inertial load was 5600 pounds at 2600 rpm. And this was with a piston & conrod assembly that weighed ~28 pounds.


Thanks for some actual numbers, even though its big diesel. I can see how inertial forces could easily be half the total load in a gas engine. The OP's problem really comes down to can we trust M1 0w-30 to maintain its HTHS over time, knowing Honda thinks a 30 is fine of course. Now I'm leaning toward mixing it half-half with M1 0w-40 just to be sure.
 
Originally Posted By: ExMachina
Originally Posted By: A_Harman


I once did bearing load calculations on a diesel test engine I was developing back in the early '90's. The peak combustion pressure force was 71,000 pounds at 2600 psi firing pressure, and the peak TDC inertial load was 5600 pounds at 2600 rpm. And this was with a piston & conrod assembly that weighed ~28 pounds.


Thanks for some actual numbers, even though its big diesel. I can see how inertial forces could easily be half the total load in a gas engine. The OP's problem really comes down to can we trust M1 0w-30 to maintain its HTHS over time, knowing Honda thinks a 30 is fine of course. Now I'm leaning toward mixing it half-half with M1 0w-40 just to be sure.
Go 100% M1 0W-40 and call it done.
 
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
Isn't that what we see in bearing wearpatterns aswell?

inertia loads are highest at tdc an bdc, no?


Those wear loads at the top of the connecting rod journals are mostly due combustion forces at low rpm on some engines anway! This 9,000 rpm Honda engine is thought provoking. A full off-topic analysis is at http://www.eng.utoledo.edu/mime/faculty_...tCpp615-624.pdf
 
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Yes.

Honda specified 10w30 SL/SM dino, which is nowhere NEAR as good as any current syn like AFE. And don't forget, the 06+ models even have an MM calibrated for the same 10w30 dino.

Any current SN 0/5/10w30 will be more than adequate for your car
smile.gif


I think AFE is probably the best for your car here because AFE 0w30 is a light 30, so less drag, which helps the higher rpm freeing it up so to speak.

Or if you want something thicker, go for Castrol 0w30, which is a heavy 30.
 
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
Isn't that what we see in bearing wearpatterns aswell?

inertia loads are highest at tdc an bdc, no?


Inertia load is highest at TDC. There is a peak load at BDC, but due to the crank-slider mechanism kinematics, it's less than the peak at TDC.
 
From what I've seen at the track, people run all kinds of oil in these things. I've only ever seen one pop a motor, which happened to be a friend's that I was driving at the time! That was an oil pump failure, I believe. Great cars, great motors.

robert
 
You question may be the best question to debate of the 2015 year. Everyone has an opinion, but few have a 9,000 rpm Honda engine sitting in their driveway to back up their opinions.

My best guess, is you are good with M1 0W30AFE as is, with your driving patterns. (I don't have a 9,000 rpm Honda engine either - but I can speculate what I would do, anyway).

What I was looking for someone to suggest, NO one has. 1) Mobil 1 also offers a Mobil 1Racing 0W30. I would a least, mix this in a 50/50 ratio, with what you have. You would wind up with a boosted ZN/Phosphorus content. It is also designed for high performance engines. I bought about 40 quarts of it, a few years back, at Advance Auto Parts for $2/qt clearance price.
2) The other option I would think about is, Amsoil makes a 10W30 motorcycle oil. PAO based, high flash point. Last time I checked, motorcycles have rpm's past, 9000 rpm that you have.
 
991 GT3 and 458 Italia both rev to 9000RPM, both get Euro 40wt oil from the factory.

So M1 0W40 or Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40 or Castrol 0W40 should all serve your engine well, pick whatever that's readily available.
 
Originally Posted By: Best F100
You question may be the best question to debate of the 2015 year. Everyone has an opinion, but few have a 9,000 rpm Honda engine sitting in their driveway to back up their opinions.


Even if you did have one, you still couldn't magically see inside the engine at full revs to check the oil film thickness.... it's guesswork either way dude.

Originally Posted By: Best F100
My best guess, is you are good with M1 0W30AFE as is, with your driving patterns. (I don't have a 9,000 rpm Honda engine either - but I can speculate what I would do, anyway).

What I was looking for someone to suggest, NO one has. 1) Mobil 1 also offers a Mobil 1Racing 0W30. I would a least, mix this in a 50/50 ratio, with what you have. You would wind up with a boosted ZN/Phosphorus content. It is also designed for high performance engines. I bought about 40 quarts of it, a few years back, at Advance Auto Parts for $2/qt clearance price.
2) The other option I would think about is, Amsoil makes a 10W30 motorcycle oil. PAO based, high flash point. Last time I checked, motorcycles have rpm's past, 9000 rpm that you have.


I like your M1 0w-30 racing oil idea. I definitely wouldn't mix in more than about 1 quart of this heavy-additive engine oil. Its got about 2000 ppm zddp, and about 1600 ppm moly, and does have detergents, so you could mix it in to M1 0w-30 AFE, yet let's not crank the zddp up too much. Excellent idea though to use it as a booster.
 
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hey, not answering your question but are you seriously doing 4000 rpm doing highway speeds? my 63hp car is doing 3100rpm at that speed and i thought that was high! how much power are you making at 4k rpm? it almost sounds like you need another gear :p
but for your oil, i would second the amsoil motorcycle oil suggestion. they see higher rpm's and a lot of bikes run the engine oil through the transmission so they have to be more shear stable i would think.
another idea would be a 30 weight diesel oil. weather 5w30 or 10w30. should give you a higher hths viscosity than a 30 weight gas oil. i used to use diesel oil in a gas car i had and i dont think it hurt it but have have no idea if its a good idea or not, you would have to look into that.
the other thing is does your oil get hot? do you have a guage? in a normal car it takes almost half an hour of highway driving for the oil to reach 212F. piston oil squirters heat it up way faster, do you have them? do you have an oil cooler? that usually keeps temps down pretty good if your not doing extended racing. if your oil doesnt get too hot then hths viscosity isnt as important, you want to concentrate more on a shear stable oil. but your cruising at 4000rpm so im pretty sure it warms up fast
smile.gif

my brother bought a 80's mr2 that was driven easy by an old man its whole life. didnt burn any oil for his first oil change then he started taking it to the redline and it started burning so much oil he had to rebuild the motor... thats a 30 year old engine and i doubt it will happen to yours, but engines dont seem to take well going from only easy driving for 100k km to hard driving or vise versa from what i have been told. might just be stories though.
i got to drive an s2000 for a few minutes once- nice car!
 
Honda S2000 has very close and short gear ratio, my 2004 S2000 (AP2 with 8k redline) has the gear ratio:
Primary-Gear-Reduction-1.208 (What-ever this is)
1st-gear-3.133
2nd-gear-2.045
3rd-gear-1.481
4th-gear-1.161
5th-gear-0.942
6th-gear-0.763
Reverse-2.800
Final Drive Ratio - 4.100

S2000 is designed for performance, not for gas mileage or quiet ride. The engine is turning 4500-4600 RPM at 80 MPH at 6th gear, max speed is around 155 MPH at 8k redline.

Since the engine speed is fairly high at highway speed, I prefer a little higher HTHS than most dino and syn 10W30 of around 3.0-3.1.

As I said earlier, Honda also recommends 5W40 for colder climate for easier cold start, this means the engine can use 0W40 or 5W40 year round in warmer climate.

The engine has no problem running at or near redline all the time (on the track), the weak link is the transmission especially the clutch.
 
I have a built, sleeved, forged B18C-R motor in my Civic Hatch that turns 9200rpm regularly and with anything lower than a 40w oil I see a fair amount of oil pressure loss when hot (using a true Autometer mechanical OP gauge) My motor is built on the loose side though, mains and rods are at .0025-.003"

I use 5w-50 or 20w-50 in the summer when its getting tracked and beat regularly. Oil pressure at cruise rpm is 60-65psi and as you know, VTEC engines like oil pressure, its what drives the system.

I do however want to try a run of M1 0W-40 just because of the awesome specs it carries, That will likely be my next fill.
 
Mobil 1 EP 10w30
Mobil 1 HM 10w30
Mobil 1 0w40

Those would be my choices.
 
Originally Posted By: buster
Mobil 1 EP 10w30
Mobil 1 HM 10w30
Mobil 1 0w40

Those would be my choices.


Oddly enough, I ended up buying one of these cars this weekend. It has GTX 5w20 in it right now and that needs to go ASAP. These are the oils I've narrowed it down to, myself, although I'm tempted to throw 0w30 AFE in the mix, too. I'll probably go 0w40 because I'm a strong believer in it and it's what the Miata runs.

robert
 
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