Rust proofing my f250

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Jschreffler81

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Oct 22, 2014
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Pottsville pa
I have an 03 f250 with no rust on the body so far. I've had the truck garage kept since new so I want to keep it solid and looking good as long as I can. Most trucks in my area around my year have cab corners and wheel wells rusting through bad on there super duty trucks. I'm looking for advise on a product to get up into these rust prone places. I Believe there is a plug I can take out on the back side of the cab corner to spray something in there. I was thinking of trying fluid film or 3m makes a spray rubber rust proofing product I can order online. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'm not sure how to get up inside the wheel wells yet though.
 
+3 on the fluid film. Pay particular attention to the rocker panels; they seem to always conk out. Get 'em from inside out, too. Get the frame around the spring shackles, radius arm mounts, and anything else that attaches somehow.
 
Originally Posted By: Jschreffler81
I have an 03 f250 with no rust on the body so far. I've had the truck garage kept since new so I want to keep it solid and looking good as long as I can. Most trucks in my area around my year have cab corners and wheel wells rusting through bad on there super duty trucks. I'm looking for advise on a product to get up into these rust prone places. I Believe there is a plug I can take out on the back side of the cab corner to spray something in there. I was thinking of trying fluid film or 3m makes a spray rubber rust proofing product I can order online. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'm not sure how to get up inside the wheel wells yet though.
If you're looking for something really good. Unfortunately it's not cheap and only comes in 5's and 55's check this out. http://www.theruststore.com/Cortec-VpCI-368-P82C28.aspx It's ability to protect against salt spray is amazing. It doesn't wash off easily so it should last longer between coats.
 
Fluid Film ! Made for undercoating / creeps around spot welds. * NO shelf life * Not petroleum based / will not harm synthetic rubber or wiring Around my wheel wells, I mix F F with Never-Seize. Years later it's still there. Brake Lines - I use Never-Seize. If you DIY with Fluid Film, best to buy the Air spray gun. I use aerosol cans and 1 Gallon Cans (brushed on). I also have the flexible hose that atomizes the F F for inside doors and tailgate. Going on 13 years now and NO rust.
 
You may be close enough to the two Carwell shops in NY. Bring it there have it done for $100 and watch. Then do the follow-up treatments yourself.
 
Originally Posted By: cat843
You may be close enough to the two Carwell shops in NY. Bring it there have it done for $100 and watch. Then do the follow-up treatments yourself.
This would be my choice. I have waxy sprays, FF, and oily creeping sprays. I've found that the creepy clingy oil stays better in high wash and even not so high wash areas, compared to FF. If there are plugs to remove and spray into, I think I'd still rather fog the areas with an oil before maybe topping with something like FF. There is no one size fits all product for this. But I will say that I've had less than stellar experiences with waxy sprays, where I've seen rust develop on exposed metal underneath. There is something to be said about diffusion of moisture to the underlying metal in some situations. Don't know why. Something "wetter" that spreads and creeps better is desirable, but that's why i like the idea of creeping oil - cavity waxes coat metal, but they and high viscosity sprays may not make it into the depths of the mating areas where metal parts converge and are welded, and some of those spots are where rust starts first. The challenge is staying power versus something that is tortuous enough that moisture creeps in and can't easily dry out...
 
I got a quote from a guy on Long Island who applies Waxoyl to shoot my Jeep. I figured it would be easier than me doing my treatment. He wanted between $900-$1,100 to treat the entire vehicle depending on how much prep work was involved. I discovered I'm in the wrong business!
 
I have a 14 year old super duty stored outdoors all its life about a mile of two from the atlantic ocean most of its life. The body does not yet have any rust. But the underbody is a completely different story. The drive shaft just rusted out, and have had to replace a few brake lines in the past couple of years.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
[quote=cat843]..... but that's why i like the idea of creeping oil - cavity waxes coat metal, but they and high viscosity sprays may not make it into the depths of the mating areas where metal parts converge and are welded, and some of those spots are where rust starts first. The challenge is staying power versus something that is tortuous enough that moisture creeps in and can't easily dry out...
Reading many of the rust proofing threads here, many people assume that thicker is better, especially in high wash areas. I wonder if this is wrong thinking? The Carwell site claims that their product leaves a micro thin coating. I know my Krown seems to wash off the high wash areas soon after an application. However, when I rubbed my finger on some of these areas 6 months later, there still seemed to be some kind of film there. Maybe the idea of seeing a thick layer is just a mental stigma that we need to get over. Carwell: "The ultra thin film creeps and crawls into seams, cracks and crevices where corrosion begins and provides and active barrier between the metal and the causes of corrosion. Once Carwell has reached the good metal, it sets up a bond. This bond is at a molecular level and the film that is created is ultra-thin providing long-term protection. The inhibitors, meshed together in a chain link, are then used by the environment – contaminants, salts, etc… - before the metal is rusted."
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I got a quote from a guy on Long Island who applies Waxoyl to shoot my Jeep. I figured it would be easier than me doing my treatment. He wanted between $900-$1,100 to treat the entire vehicle depending on how much prep work was involved. I discovered I'm in the wrong business!
The auto body shop in southampton? They did my Mercedes and were very thorough. Full day job, fwiw. It was around $800.
 
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
[quote=cat843]..... but that's why i like the idea of creeping oil - cavity waxes coat metal, but they and high viscosity sprays may not make it into the depths of the mating areas where metal parts converge and are welded, and some of those spots are where rust starts first. The challenge is staying power versus something that is tortuous enough that moisture creeps in and can't easily dry out...
Reading many of the rust proofing threads here, many people assume that thicker is better, especially in high wash areas. I wonder if this is wrong thinking? The Carwell site claims that their product leaves a micro thin coating. I know my Krown seems to wash off the high wash areas soon after an application. However, when I rubbed my finger on some of these areas 6 months later, there still seemed to be some kind of film there. Maybe the idea of seeing a thick layer is just a mental stigma that we need to get over. Carwell: "The ultra thin film creeps and crawls into seams, cracks and crevices where corrosion begins and provides and active barrier between the metal and the causes of corrosion. Once Carwell has reached the good metal, it sets up a bond. This bond is at a molecular level and the film that is created is ultra-thin providing long-term protection. The inhibitors, meshed together in a chain link, are then used by the environment – contaminants, salts, etc… - before the metal is rusted."
My Saab was the first car we had krowned. I expected the spray in the wheelwells to be gone, but years after, there was enough material on the surfaces (struts, exposed fender metal, etc) to still bind sand and fine road dust. Ymmv.
 
The OP has a used truck. Is Waxoyl even an option? I can see how FF or CarWell or Krown will soak into the rust, but not sure about Waxoyl.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I got a quote from a guy on Long Island who applies Waxoyl to shoot my Jeep. I figured it would be easier than me doing my treatment. He wanted between $900-$1,100 to treat the entire vehicle depending on how much prep work was involved. I discovered I'm in the wrong business!
The auto body shop in southampton? They did my Mercedes and were very thorough. Full day job, fwiw. It was around $800.
I deleted his email, IIRC he was in Lindenhurst. I'll use the Cortec stuff I linked to, apply two full coats and call it done.
 
Originally Posted By: SeaJay
I have a 14 year old super duty stored outdoors all its life about a mile of two from the atlantic ocean most of its life. The body does not yet have any rust. But the underbody is a completely different story. The drive shaft just rusted out, and have had to replace a few brake lines in the past couple of years.
The front drive shaft on my truck is looking pretty bad too. I'm probably going to have to replace it soon. This is the only rusty part on my truck and something I wouldn't expect to rust either. It has very heavy rust scale on it.
 
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