Rust Product Suggestion...PICS

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What product would you suggest to treat the following...

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I would prefer a product that requires no prep work. I would just like to apply the product and forget about it.

The rust is located underneath the doors on the inside. No sun light will reach it. No one will see it, unless you know it is there.
 
Maybe Rust Bullet, I found it easier to use than POR-15, but then I am totally incompetent with auto body maintenance and repair, detailing, etc (haven't washed my F150 in probably 6 years). Rust Bullet is basically holding my front bumper together on the '95 F150.
 
Color matched spray on bedliner. Requires little prep work and will last for several years.
 
Originally Posted By: DC84
Color matched spray on bedliner. Requires little prep work and will last for several years.


That's actually a good idea. I would however brush on a rust converter first, then hit it with the bedliner.
 
I repaired a door bottom like this several years ago (it wasn't quite that rusty). I ground away as much rust as possible, used POR-15, then the POR-15 tie coat primer, and painted it body colour (actually I had the the whole car painted, so the body shop painted the door insides too). It was a lot of work but the rust didn't come back.

The key is to remove as much rust as possible first. The bedliner stuff might work, but only if you use a rust converter first. Unfortunately, you'll have to put some work and money into it, if you don't want the rust to come back. There's no easy way out with rust.
 
No free lunch with rust. Oldswagon is correct in saying remove as much as possible, hit it with a good primer and use the bedliner paint if you like, or get some Dupli-Color to match and repaint it. I like the bedliner idea better because it is a much thicker paint film. Remember prep is everything, especially when dealing with rust.

AD
 
Grind down, Eastwoods rust converter, Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator, top coat with color match for you door. Take interior panel of door off and flood inside area of lower door with Eureka Fluid film. The fluid film will run into the void from the inside where the door skin is folded over on the bottom seam. Will extend the life of the door skin so the rust wont pop thru the outer sheet metal at the seam.

See this all the time, especially on 5 yr old or older imports up here in this area. Trick is to clean the under side of the doors often and rust proof the inside of the doors from new with FF.
 
For the time being I have just been using WD-40 every so often.

I am going to go with the bed liner route. I think it would be much more durable with its thicker and heavy textured coating.

How would I go about prep work? After the prep work I would hit it with a rust converter and then with the spray bed liner.
 
Originally Posted By: lancerplayer
For the time being I have just been using WD-40 every so often.

I am going to go with the bed liner route. I think it would be much more durable with its thicker and heavy textured coating.

How would I go about prep work? After the prep work I would hit it with a rust converter and then with the spray bed liner.


I would prep it by removing any rust and scale, by scraping, wire wheel and sanding. Make sure all WD40 is removed so that the primer and bedliner will stick. After it is all prepped and clean, use the rust converter, then spray prime it, followed by the bedliner. Make sure each product is totally dry before applying the next product.

Now you can short cut if you like. You can eliminate the rust converter and use a primer only, then bedliner. Or you can eliminate primer and use the rust converter and then bedliner. I would do both steps. Make sure the primer is for metal.

JMO
 
Grind it down?? You'll have nothing left on that second pic. IMO, the only band-aid would be knock off the really loose stuff and slop some POR-15 on there. It might buy you a year to save up for some new/used doors.

Joel
 
Wire wheel and grinding it down are two different things. Maybe I should have been a little clearer. A wire wheel on a drill and a few light passes should knock the loose junk off. Then proceed from there.
 
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