Rust penetrant
- Thread starter Oildudeny
- Start date
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2020/05/full-82674-44663-20200517_151910.jpg "[Linked Image]")
Not sure with ATF, but I soak rusty parts in 7% pickling vinegar overnight and maybe use a couple of 10 minute applications of rust removing gel.
Can't hurt.
You should be fine.
You should be fine.
Originally Posted by Oildudeny
Same as naval jelly?
Yes, seems everyone makes it.
Same as naval jelly?
Yes, seems everyone makes it.
Evaporust is very good. But I have soaked tools with rust in ATF. They tend to stay in the ATF container and I can never find them.
Evaporust will evaporate. You you need to do the soaks in a container with a lid.
Evaporust will evaporate. You you need to do the soaks in a container with a lid.
I don't understand why you have chosen ATF. It's not at all noteworthy for dissolving rust. It may help to get a little off but mostly just the loose surface dust then wets the rest so it just looks darker.
There are many acid formulations, but if you wish to preserve the sheen of the chrome then I wouldn't steel wool it. If you have a lot of tools to do or some with very thick rust then you will save time and break even on cost, buying some product meant for this. Otherwise there are many consumer products with acid in them that you might already have around.
A typical "naval jelly" uses phosphoric acid. A weaker phosphoric acid containing product, weak enough it's safe to handle and use abrasion to help it along would be Coca-Cola. Try using that and a blue scotch brite scrubber sponge, or really any of your choice that is softer than steel. Scotch Brite brown and green are too hard and will get rust off faster but scratch up the chrome. As light as that rust looks, you might need nothing more than the Coke and a regular plastic toothbrush.
The extra benefit of a phosphoric acid formula is that it leaves a protective phosphate coating, but only use it on thick metal. Thin metal becomes embrittled, often too much so. For example you wouldn't want to use phosphoric acid on feeler gauges or the tip of a screwdriver.
Other acids will work too. Acetic acid in vinegar, sulfuric acid in batteries, oxalic acid in metal polishes, hydrochloric acid in toilet bowl or drain cleaners, etc. but for something you're not going to plate, or paint over, I'd stick with phosphoric then wax, oil, or grease them. Remember that most acids (depending on exposure level) are harmful to skin and especially eyes. The fumes from some should not be breathed in an enclosed area.
There are many acid formulations, but if you wish to preserve the sheen of the chrome then I wouldn't steel wool it. If you have a lot of tools to do or some with very thick rust then you will save time and break even on cost, buying some product meant for this. Otherwise there are many consumer products with acid in them that you might already have around.
A typical "naval jelly" uses phosphoric acid. A weaker phosphoric acid containing product, weak enough it's safe to handle and use abrasion to help it along would be Coca-Cola. Try using that and a blue scotch brite scrubber sponge, or really any of your choice that is softer than steel. Scotch Brite brown and green are too hard and will get rust off faster but scratch up the chrome. As light as that rust looks, you might need nothing more than the Coke and a regular plastic toothbrush.
The extra benefit of a phosphoric acid formula is that it leaves a protective phosphate coating, but only use it on thick metal. Thin metal becomes embrittled, often too much so. For example you wouldn't want to use phosphoric acid on feeler gauges or the tip of a screwdriver.
Other acids will work too. Acetic acid in vinegar, sulfuric acid in batteries, oxalic acid in metal polishes, hydrochloric acid in toilet bowl or drain cleaners, etc. but for something you're not going to plate, or paint over, I'd stick with phosphoric then wax, oil, or grease them. Remember that most acids (depending on exposure level) are harmful to skin and especially eyes. The fumes from some should not be breathed in an enclosed area.
Last edited:
