Royal Purple Max-Cycle 10w/40, 5000m, Yamaha FZ1

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as reported by Blackstone -and Dyson-

interval -- 5k miles
miles on unit -- 16000


-----------tested / univ. averages

alu----- 18 / 12
chr----- 2 / 1
irn----- 81 / 41
cop----- 8 / 4
lead---- 3 / 2
tin----- 0 / 2
moly--- 492 / 467
nick---- 2 / 1
mang--- 1 / 1
silv----- 0 / 0
tit------ 0 / 0
pot---- 2 / 1
bor---- 8 / 8
sili---- 12 / 8
sod---- 8 / 5
cal----- 3079 / 2839
mag---- 20 / 17
phos--- 4554 / 4320
zinc---- 1367 / 1295
bar----- 1 / 1


-----------------nominal / actual

sus visc @ 210f- 64-75 / 59.5
flash f-------- >370 / 350
% fuel-------- antifreeze----- 0 / 0
water--------- TR
insolubles----- .4


the numbers would seem to imply that the interval was too long, but the interval included a 2k road trip in the fall, sitting for a while in the winter, re-jet with new header and pipe and k&n air filter. when drained, oil was probably not at full temp, and the drained oil sat in a tupperware container for couple weeks before the test kit arrived. these factors may have contributed to the fuel and water contamination as suggested by the comments from Blackstone. Blackstone seemed to feel there were no significant problems and that a better sampling proceedure in the future would yield better results.

however, i'm concerned about the iron. i'm also curious as to why the moly and "detergent" numbers should be higher than virgin or averages, unless the fuel and water contamination -and resulting viscosity loss?- may have caused the engine surfaces to start shedding moly coating. -?-

please feel free to comment or advise. cut me some slack tho, i freely admit to knowing little or nothing about the subject. i first used RP a little over 10 years ago when the guys where i took my bmw motorcycle suggested the racing oil after break-in. they'd been using it in their race bikes -ducatis- and had started using it for street bikes with good results. they even started breaking in bikes with RP and seemed pleased with it. when they told me i'd feel an improvement in power i politely nodded my head. then i rode the bike and the engine was quite noticably stronger and smoother. i don't recall exactly but that must have been the Racing 21. i'd like to start using that in this bike, but i'm dubious about the decreased viscosity.

thanks,

Michael
 
my yz250f is simply the left cylinder of your fz1. only 2 of my samples (over 1 dozen) show a viscosity in the "expected" range. 10 are all lower. blackstone advised me to use a straight weight oil to help maintain the viscosity.
maybe you could use straight sae30 in the summer, but i'm sure your winter would not allow that.
i never had the oil in my fzr600 or cbr600f2 analyzed to be able to compare the same oil in street and dirt simultaniousally, bummer.

p.s. i have RP 20w50 in the mixmaster right now. gonna test it after this weekends ride. my guess is i will NOT be impressed.
 
thanks for the reply sunruh. good point about the straight weight. do they really tend to hold their viscosity better? anyway, i'm still reserving judgement on the viscosity loss til i get more test results, hoping that the loss was due to winter and that the fuel contamination was a fluke.

i bet that 250 can really put an oil to the test. how long of a change interval do you normally run?
 
well, the Valvoline VR1 sae50 (straight weight) is one of the two that held its viscosity VERY VERY well as my results show. it also had a very nice (HIGH) flash point.

my tests show that my bike can shear the oil to shreds in as little as 30 miles.
very rarely do i like the OCI get to 120 miles. usually i do a race (60 miles) and a practice day (about 20+ miles). sometimes an additional practice day as well.

one thing you have to realize is that NO car motor has a constant mesh gearbox grinding (shearing) the crap out of the oil every second it is moving. while i don't think there is a real need for "motorcycle specific" formula oil, i do feel the OCI can NOT be the same. provided you have a constant mesh tranny that shares the engine oil.
 
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