I posted a few days back about proper operating Oil temps and the various responses got me thinking about M1 0w-40. I Have a 2000 Audi S4 with 47,000 miles on the clock. Brought it from the original owner with all maintenance records going back to 2001. Its always has full synthetic oil from the dealership using Castrol 5w-30. Im Washington state and with all my previous S4s I have always used Rotella T6 with an exception of M1 0w-40 a few times. I did notice a bit cooler Oil temperatures with M1 over T6 maybe 10F. Nothing Crazy. Im just curious of what Oil would best fit my car. I've never had a problem with T6 but i keep reading its on the thicker end of the 40w oils but I also hear it has high Zinc content. M1 seems to be on the thiner end of the 40w oils which is probably why I saw cooler temperatures but I keep reading it shears quickly specially with turbo engines. I daily drive the car though most of the time I stay out of boost it usually does see full (20psi) boost daily. I Also have an auxiliary Oil cooler and so far with T6 my oil stays 180F-190F with normal driver and never see over 212F with abuse. Which oil do you guys think would better fit my car? I like rotella for the high zinc but would possibly like to switch to M1 for the light weight but the shearing could be a problem.
Rotella T6/Mobil 1 for turbo engine
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It doensn't matter if it shears down to a 30 weight because it was spec'd for a 30 anyways. I think the M1 0w40 is a good fit for your application.
Originally Posted By: karrann
I posted a few days back about proper operating Oil temps and the various responses got me thinking about M1 0w-40. I Have a 2000 Audi S4 with 47,000 miles on the clock. Brought it from the original owner with all maintenance records going back to 2001. Its always has full synthetic oil from the dealership using Castrol 5w-30. Im Washington state and with all my previous S4s I have always used Rotella T6 with an exception of M1 0w-40 a few times. I did notice a bit cooler Oil temperatures with M1 over T6 maybe 10F. Nothing Crazy. Im just curious of what Oil would best fit my car. I've never had a problem with T6 but i keep reading its on the thicker end of the 40w oils but I also hear it has high Zinc content. M1 seems to be on the thiner end of the 40w oils which is probably why I saw cooler temperatures but I keep reading it shears quickly specially with turbo engines. I daily drive the car though most of the time I stay out of boost it usually does see full (20psi) boost daily. I Also have an auxiliary Oil cooler and so far with T6 my oil stays 180F-190F with normal driver and never see over 212F with abuse. Which oil do you guys think would better fit my car? I like rotella for the high zinc but would possibly like to switch to M1 for the light weight but the shearing could be a problem.
Firstly the t-6 is additive reduced to comply with emissions regulations. It's not a performance engine oil with the unicorn tears and pixie dust,its a diesel oil mean't for diesels that have emissions equipment that mandates less metal additives.
What does zinc have to do with anything?
And in a performance engine m1 0w-40 is the only choice once all things are considered if buying oil in America. The cost being so reasonable and considering all the specs it meets its a no brainer as far as I'm concerned.
I really liked the liqui-moly 0w-40 in my charger but its a 1 time deal due to cost.
M1 0w-40 is what I'd be using. If money is no object I'd run redline.
I posted a few days back about proper operating Oil temps and the various responses got me thinking about M1 0w-40. I Have a 2000 Audi S4 with 47,000 miles on the clock. Brought it from the original owner with all maintenance records going back to 2001. Its always has full synthetic oil from the dealership using Castrol 5w-30. Im Washington state and with all my previous S4s I have always used Rotella T6 with an exception of M1 0w-40 a few times. I did notice a bit cooler Oil temperatures with M1 over T6 maybe 10F. Nothing Crazy. Im just curious of what Oil would best fit my car. I've never had a problem with T6 but i keep reading its on the thicker end of the 40w oils but I also hear it has high Zinc content. M1 seems to be on the thiner end of the 40w oils which is probably why I saw cooler temperatures but I keep reading it shears quickly specially with turbo engines. I daily drive the car though most of the time I stay out of boost it usually does see full (20psi) boost daily. I Also have an auxiliary Oil cooler and so far with T6 my oil stays 180F-190F with normal driver and never see over 212F with abuse. Which oil do you guys think would better fit my car? I like rotella for the high zinc but would possibly like to switch to M1 for the light weight but the shearing could be a problem.
Firstly the t-6 is additive reduced to comply with emissions regulations. It's not a performance engine oil with the unicorn tears and pixie dust,its a diesel oil mean't for diesels that have emissions equipment that mandates less metal additives.
What does zinc have to do with anything?
And in a performance engine m1 0w-40 is the only choice once all things are considered if buying oil in America. The cost being so reasonable and considering all the specs it meets its a no brainer as far as I'm concerned.
I really liked the liqui-moly 0w-40 in my charger but its a 1 time deal due to cost.
M1 0w-40 is what I'd be using. If money is no object I'd run redline.
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Firstly the t-6 is additive reduced to comply with emissions regulations. It's not a performance engine oil with the unicorn tears and pixie dust,its a diesel oil mean't for diesels that have emissions equipment that mandates less metal additives.
What does zinc have to do with anything?
And in a performance engine m1 0w-40 is the only choice once all things are considered if buying oil in America. The cost being so reasonable and considering all the specs it meets its a no brainer as far as I'm concerned.
I really liked the liqui-moly 0w-40 in my charger but its a 1 time deal due to cost.
M1 0w-40 is what I'd be using. If money is no object I'd run redline.
Didn't know Rotella T6 additive reduced. Thanks for sharing that. As for as zinc goes Im no obviously no expert thats why I'm here to learn but from a but of research I was under the impression the high zinc content helps protect the engine from wear. But I could of just misunderstood. Im leaning towards M1 0w-40 but the only thing I'm hesitant with is the reports from people saying it shears and thins out specially on turbo cars. Money really into the issuer when it comes to taking care of my car as long as it can be found locally. Also Ive read that the new formula of M1 0w-40 doesn't shear like it did before. It there any truth to that? Im assuming since it shears more so in turbo applications that heat is the culprit. But Like i stated I do run an oil cooler I wonder if that would help prevent that.
Firstly the t-6 is additive reduced to comply with emissions regulations. It's not a performance engine oil with the unicorn tears and pixie dust,its a diesel oil mean't for diesels that have emissions equipment that mandates less metal additives.
What does zinc have to do with anything?
And in a performance engine m1 0w-40 is the only choice once all things are considered if buying oil in America. The cost being so reasonable and considering all the specs it meets its a no brainer as far as I'm concerned.
I really liked the liqui-moly 0w-40 in my charger but its a 1 time deal due to cost.
M1 0w-40 is what I'd be using. If money is no object I'd run redline.
Didn't know Rotella T6 additive reduced. Thanks for sharing that. As for as zinc goes Im no obviously no expert thats why I'm here to learn but from a but of research I was under the impression the high zinc content helps protect the engine from wear. But I could of just misunderstood. Im leaning towards M1 0w-40 but the only thing I'm hesitant with is the reports from people saying it shears and thins out specially on turbo cars. Money really into the issuer when it comes to taking care of my car as long as it can be found locally. Also Ive read that the new formula of M1 0w-40 doesn't shear like it did before. It there any truth to that? Im assuming since it shears more so in turbo applications that heat is the culprit. But Like i stated I do run an oil cooler I wonder if that would help prevent that.
Run the M1 0w40. I love RT6 in my diesel pickup, and it is dual-rated CJ/SM, but for a turbocharged gasoline engine, I think M1 0w40 would be better. RT6 has a TBN of 10.6, and M1 0w40 has a TBN of 12, so it would be more suited to long oil drain intervals with high-sulfur gasoline. Diesel fuel was reformulated in 2007 to reduce its sulfur content, and modern diesel oils have reduced TBN because of it.
Between RT6 and M1, I still suggest you go with M1. I've run RT6 in my 2.7t a couple of times, and oil temps were the same but I could feel the engine just wasn't as responsive as it was with M1 or GC. The biggest thing that affected oil temps for me was changing out the thermostat and all of the coolant. Last timing belt change I saw a 10-15 degree drop in oil temps.
I usually just go with M1, GC, or now BC and pick the one that costs the least. When I find GC or BC on a good sale, I'll buy 2 OC worth and stash it.
I usually just go with M1, GC, or now BC and pick the one that costs the least. When I find GC or BC on a good sale, I'll buy 2 OC worth and stash it.
I ran Mobil 1 0W-40 in my 2000 S4 for 129,000 miles. Never a Turbo or Engine problem in that car!
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