Rotella T6 - 5W40?

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So all the cars in my signature, either require 5W20 or 5W30. Curious if T6(5W40) can be used or I shouldn't?

Currently I have a lot of 5W40 in stash, which I use in my motorcycles, but wanted to know if it can be used in the cars too?

Thank you
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Originally Posted by maverickfhs
So all the cars in my signature, either require 5W20 or 5W30. Curious if T6(5W40) can be used or I shouldn't?

Currently I have a lot of 5W40 in stash, which I use in my motorcycles, but wanted to know if it can be used in the cars too?

Thank you
thumbsup2.gif


Another option is to blend the 5w40 with the 5w30....... 50-50.
 
Its not suggested for gas engines because it might wear the catalytic converter prematurely. That said its used all the time in the Turbo Subaru crowd. You might also look at Chevron Delo which is API SN Plus rated. I think Chevron wants a piece of the Subaru crowd thus they got it API rated SN Plus.
 
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by maverickfhs
So all the cars in my signature, either require 5W20 or 5W30. Curious if T6(5W40) can be used or I shouldn't?

Currently I have a lot of 5W40 in stash, which I use in my motorcycles, but wanted to know if it can be used in the cars too?

Thank you
thumbsup2.gif


Another option is to blend the 5w40 with the 5w30....... 50-50.


I noticed in your signature you use Liqui-Moly. I used it work as a very small additive to some pumps in a less ratio to bumping close to what you are putting in. I had seal leaking/replacing problems, Cat pumps to be specific. I got a Summit Industries/Kluber R&D oil chemist involved on finding a better oil for this pump and told him what I was using and he immediately said stop the use of that style moly ( black moly). Your seal issue will be resolved, he said it is VERY hard on seals and seal wear is inevitable. I have yet to lose a seal after taking that additive out of use. Just a heads up on that new Hyundai. And yes I know people have used it for years here.
 
I use it in my 2010 XC90 3.2. Runs great. I am also going to put it in my 2008 X5 3.0si. I see no issues with it.
 
Thanks all, then can Rotella T6 be used with OLM recommendations or 5000-7500 miles for grandpa sort of driving?
 
If I remember correctly isn't the T6 5w40 on the thinner side of 5w40. I think I remember someone suggesting it to me for my GM 5.7 and mentioning it was on the thin side.
 
Originally Posted by maverickfhs
Thanks all, then can Rotella T6 be used with OLM recommendations or 5000-7500 miles for grandpa sort of driving?

I'd say yes because T6 is the "full synthetic" formulation compared to T4. And if you mix the T6 with anything, I would use the 5w20.
 
Originally Posted by DGXR
Originally Posted by maverickfhs
Thanks all, then can Rotella T6 be used with OLM recommendations or 5000-7500 miles for grandpa sort of driving?

I'd say yes because T6 is the "full synthetic" formulation compared to T4. And if you mix the T6 with anything, I would use the 5w20.

50/50 concoction or different %?

Thank you.
 
It's funny that you said that about liqui-moly I used it recently in a 1986 New Yorker turbo that had no leaks then all the sudden the front seal is leaking. Wonder if that oil caused it
 
Originally Posted by Navi
Its not suggested for gas engines because it might wear the catalytic converter prematurely. That said its used all the time in the Turbo Subaru crowd. You might also look at Chevron Delo which is API SN Plus rated. I think Chevron wants a piece of the Subaru crowd thus they got it API rated SN Plus.

0W40/5W40 can cause a catalytic converter to fail in today's gas engines that don't spec it?
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Originally Posted by BlueOvalFitter
0W40/5W40 can cause a catalytic converter to fail in today's gas engines that don't spec it?
confused2.gif

It's the Sulfur content, not the viscosity.
 
Probably not that hard these days … I picked up ST SAE HD30 (spike fluid) and it's SN plus.
 
Originally Posted by Astro_Guy
Originally Posted by BlueOvalFitter
0W40/5W40 can cause a catalytic converter to fail in today's gas engines that don't spec it?
confused2.gif

It's the Sulfur content, not the viscosity.



It has to do with emissions systems warranty. If you have high oil consumption this could be an issue. With higher metalic additives . Limiting Phosphorous is the factor that manufacturers are making oil recommendations based upon.
Risk factors for a failing emissions system are more often to do with oil consumption and very short trips. Being in a state that performs emissions testing is also something to consider in whether you want to run a higher metallic additive oil in your vehicle. I think the difference between 700-1200 ppm is pretty negligible myself. . 1000 ppm is 1/10 of 1 % .

Quote
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The Clean Air Act requires manufacturers of light-duty vehicles to provide two federal emission control warranties: (A) "Performance Warranty" and (B) "Design and Defect Warranty." These warranties are provided by the vehicle manufacturer and apply to used vehicles as well. The warranty period begins from the date of sale to the original owner.

The Performance Warranty covers repairs which are required during the first 2 years or 24,000 miles of vehicle use (whichever first occurs) because the vehicle failed an emission test. Specified major emission control components are covered for the first 8 years or 80,000 miles (whichever first occurs). The specified major emission control components only include the catalytic converters, the electronic emissions control unit or computer (ECU), and the onboard emissions diagnostic (OBD) device or computer. If you are a resident of an area with an Inspection and Maintenance (I/M) program that meets federal guidelines, you are eligible for this warranty protection provided that:

Your car or light-duty truck fails an approved emissions test; and
Your vehicle is less than 2 years old and has less than 24,000 miles (up to 8 years/80,000 miles for certain components); and
Your state or local government requires that you repair the vehicle; and
The test failure does not result from misuse of the vehicle or a failure to follow the manufacturers' written maintenance instructions; and
You present the vehicle to a warranty-authorized manufacturer representative, along with evidence of the emission test failure, during the warranty period.
The Design and Defect warranty covers repair of emission control or emission related parts which fail to function or function improperly because of a defect in materials or workmanship for 2 years or 24,000 miles (whichever first occurs), and the specified major emissions control components mentioned above for 8 years or 80,000 miles (whichever first occurs). The manufacturer can deny this warranty coverage if evidence shows that the emission component failure was caused by improper use or maintenance and not caused by a defect.

A list of these components and a description of the warranties (PDF) (10 pp, 697K, EPA-420-F-15-035, October 2015) is available on our web site. However, vehicle technology is constantly changing, therefore there may be emissions control components or emissions related components which do not appear on this list. A more complete list can be found in your owner's manual/warranty booklet. The specified major emissions control components, however, are specified in the Clean Air Act and are the only components subject to the 8 years/80,000 mile federal emissions warranty.

When you believe you have identified a defective part, or your vehicle fails an emission test, you should follow the procedures for making a warranty claim as identified by the manufacturer in your owner's manual or warranty booklet. If you plan to have the manufacturer pay for a repair under either of the emissions warranties, you must take the vehicle to a facility authorized by the vehicle manufacturer for repair to give them the opportunity to diagnose and repair it. Note that if your regular repair facility is not authorized by the vehicle manufacturer, they are not obligated to advise you of parts that are covered under warranty. Before giving your automotive technician the "go ahead" to perform repairs, check your owner's manual/warranty booklet for possible warranty coverage. Additional state laws may apply, so you might want to contact your state Department of Motor Vehicles to find out.3
 
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