Rotella 2021
- Thread starter BigJohn
- Start date
Just t4 since the vds 4.5 and ford wss is good enough but i buy supertech diesel or delvac primarily and already have bought 6 gallons of supertech to change with.
If i wanted a full syn diesel oil id get delvac extreme, or delo xle in the 2.5 gal jugs on wm.com since they're well priced.
If i wanted a full syn diesel oil id get delvac extreme, or delo xle in the 2.5 gal jugs on wm.com since they're well priced.
I use T4 in the Dually. In the sportbikes, none of them offer satisfactory shifting for very long, IME.
I bend to T6 15w40 for the bikes I own that are very stressful on oil and tend to run high temps.... like my WR450F. I also like T6 in the wife's VersysX300. I am also running T6 15w40 in my Husky 701. For the wife's KLX250F, I think T4 15w40 is just fine. I am running Rotella T5 10w30 in both the VFR1200X and the Africa Twin with DCT.
I use the T4 in my Harley Road King primary. It shifts fine for the whole OCI . For the price you can't beat it.,,,
I allways used full synth so it`s a T6 for me, if Rotella was available where i live.
T4 = Meets the same specs as the others and I think shifting in a shared sump bike will hold up better with the T4 over the T5 and T6.
Not only that but did I mention that they all meet the same specs?
)
Not only that but did I mention that they all meet the same specs?
)
The more you research oil the more you realize any of it will meet or
exceed your mile expectations... there is not one oil in the 300,000
mileage club... there are 30 40 50 grade oils... there are synthetic
and mineral oils... the only difference is how much HP are wasting on
oil drag???
100% Synthetic Advantages
Higher viscosity index
Better viscosity stability at varied temperatures
Better chemical and shear stability
Consistent fluidity
Better lubricity at low temperatures
Faster lubrication at start-up in low temperatures
Resistance to oxidation (thickening), thermal breakdown, and oil sludge problem
Excellent protection at high temperatures
Engine cleanliness
Outstanding protection against harmful deposits
Cleaner running engines
Lower oil evaporation
More engine power
Lower maintenance cost
What is 100% true for all the synthetics are uniform sized molecules
that don't exists naturally... so armed with that knowledge you can
shop for the best synthetic price because no matter what brand of
uniform molecules we choose they will meet or exceed our mileage
expectations...
exceed your mile expectations... there is not one oil in the 300,000
mileage club... there are 30 40 50 grade oils... there are synthetic
and mineral oils... the only difference is how much HP are wasting on
oil drag???
100% Synthetic Advantages
Higher viscosity index
Better viscosity stability at varied temperatures
Better chemical and shear stability
Consistent fluidity
Better lubricity at low temperatures
Faster lubrication at start-up in low temperatures
Resistance to oxidation (thickening), thermal breakdown, and oil sludge problem
Excellent protection at high temperatures
Engine cleanliness
Outstanding protection against harmful deposits
Cleaner running engines
Lower oil evaporation
More engine power
Lower maintenance cost
What is 100% true for all the synthetics are uniform sized molecules
that don't exists naturally... so armed with that knowledge you can
shop for the best synthetic price because no matter what brand of
uniform molecules we choose they will meet or exceed our mileage
expectations...
I'll totally agree with this as well, and my experience on my 2007 WeeStrom.
I just have some bikes that seem to be really hard on oil, like a WR450 and a Husky 701... and for those, I tend to go with the new favorite, T6 15w40.
I venture to guess T6 Syn 15w40 pictured at the start of this thread would hold up better than T4 15W40 for an extended oil change interval. I chuckle when I say extended oil change interval, because I don't know many bikes that call for under 5,000 mile OCI's anymore. If you're changing oil at 2,000 or 3000 miles like so many guys do, I think it's academic. Overall, shift quality of an individual bike (shared sump) will hold up better with synthetic all else equal based on experience I have had and the experience of many others.T4 = Meets the same specs as the others and I think shifting in a shared sump bike will hold up better with the T4 over the T5 and T6.
Not only that but did I mention that they all meet the same specs?
I personally wouldn’t use the T6 diesel only rating, T4 carries gas rating.
Never knew T6 to hold up in anything when the 5/40 gas rated was used but, the op can find out for himself, I agree though nit much point most change at 3000 miles anyway when shifting goes south, and it will no matter what “T” it is, it will
the white jug on the right
I have used T4 and T6 in various dirt bikes, no problems. I don't usually go camping or riding when it's below 40F so I haven't had any concerns with low temperature performance (cold starts). I would not use T5 in a wet clutch application because Shell does not say it "meets the specs" for MA/MA2... last time I checked anyway.
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