Roadtrip in our 18 CRV

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Thanks for the report! I'm shopping for a something to replace an older Pilot. Most of my driving is local suburbia, but a car that doesn't seem under powered at 80 on cross country trips is important. Sounds like the CR-V does well on the highway without swilling fuel.

Well, except to add to its sump…
 
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I didn't read the link above but I am 100% confident it does more than that. It changes the throttle position %, it reduces the AC compressor usage (shorter cycles maybe ??), even something related to the alternator, as I recall from the owner's manual.

If it’s like our slightly older CRV it also switches A/C to recirculate full-time.
 

Nick1994

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I always use Eco in the Grand Cherokee. Otherwise it just hunts 7th-8th gear on the freeway on flat ground. Also have to use it while towing to keep it out of 6th gear on the freeway with my small trailer.
 
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OP, my 2016 CR-V with a normaly asperated 2.4 L is a different drive train than your higher reving 1.5 turbo. Both have a CVT, but different tranys because of the different RPMs the engines run at.


I leave eco on all the time and use D most of the time when using the gas, but when going up steep hills I drop it down a notch into S and it revs higher and has a heck of a lot more get-up-and-go. I enjoy flying up hills in it when using S, and have to limit how much gas I give it because of turns or trafic or the risk of a speeding ticket.

I also use S or L to use the engine to keep the speed low when going down hills often to take it easy on the brakes. Sometimes I even turn on the AC on MAX to increase engine load to increase engine braking.

OP, try putting it in S at the bottom of a big hill and see if that really wakes it up to provide a lot more power going up hills.
 
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I wish I had the time and energy to soundproof the entire vehicle. Honda makes very reliable vehicles, but there is room for noise reduction at highway speeds.

As for the later models with the engine getting too much fuel in the oil, if I had one I would add a ValvOMax oil drain valve to it to make oil changes easy, and when changing the oil filter loosen it slightly to verify it is not stuck, and punch a hole in the top (low section) with a screwdriver and let it drain before removing.

As for finding a level spot to check oil, add a free app for a clinometer to your phone. Put the phone on someplace in the vehicle (like on the center console) and see what the clinometer reads when on level. From then on use that as your referance when you need to find level ground.


Be sure to let it sit not running for at least 15 minutes before checking the oil level.
 
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Doesn't every AC default to RECIRC mode ?

Our CRV doesn’t when not in Eco mode. No other car we’ve had does either. Maybe if in “Auto” it will do so until the set temperature is reached, but what BITOGer surrenders control of climate control to this automatic thing?
 
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Really?

Wife has a 2017 CRV 1.5T. It does get better MPG with ECON ON. Yeah it's a dog, but for her country road (mostly) driving style MPG is improved. Need to know when to use it (more than one assumes) - any time you actually need throttle, that baby better be off because MPG will be worse. Foot in throttle, tranny going in GM herkjerk can't decide if caddyorvorvette mode.......yeah that's NOT efficient. Shut it down and tiny 1.5T comes ALIVE and lives to be boostworthy efficient.

I just hate the large square button location. When I reach over that way to turn the ****ed thing off my wife thinks I'm getting frisky.
 

himemsys

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Really?

Wife has a 2017 CRV 1.5T. It does get better MPG with ECON ON. Yeah it's a dog, but for her country road (mostly) driving style MPG is improved. Need to know when to use it (more than one assumes) - any time you actually need throttle, that baby better be off because MPG will be worse. Foot in throttle, tranny going in GM herkjerk can't decide if caddyorvorvette mode.......yeah that's NOT efficient. Shut it down and tiny 1.5T comes ALIVE and lives to be boostworthy efficient.

I just hate the large square button location. When I reach over that way to turn the ****ed thing off my wife thinks I'm getting frisky.
Yeah. It definitely makes a difference for me too. As we both said, under the right circumstances. I'd guesstimate 2-3 MPG better with ECON on in the right situation.

@JimPghPA - thanks for the suggestions on Sport mode and clinometer app.
 
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Zee09

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Really?

Wife has a 2017 CRV 1.5T. It does get better MPG with ECON ON. Yeah it's a dog, but for her country road (mostly) driving style MPG is improved. Need to know when to use it (more than one assumes) - any time you actually need throttle, that baby better be off because MPG will be worse. Foot in throttle, tranny going in GM herkjerk can't decide if caddyorvorvette mode.......yeah that's NOT efficient. Shut it down and tiny 1.5T comes ALIVE and lives to be boostworthy efficient.

I just hate the large square button location. When I reach over that way to turn the ****ed thing off my wife thinks I'm getting frisky.
If this was directed at my post I have had six hybrids and get incredible mpg as I often list in the picture threads. Eco buttons never used as I have experimented with them often. Did this morning on a 4T in a VW...
In hybrids unlike the "i think I can crowd " I accelerate swiftly to get up the hills and from a stop I accelerate moderately to get high mpg.
Eco buttons always give me poor results and are not worth using.

Plus those behind me are not irritated and I am rewarded with the best mpg from 87 octane and I actually get to use the AC and in the winter heated seats are most efficient.
 
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If this was directed at my post I have had six hybrids and get incredible mpg as I often list in the picture threads. Eco buttons never used as I have experimented with them often. Did this morning on a 4T in a VW...
In hybrids unlike the "i think I can crowd " I accelerate swiftly to get up the hills and from a stop I accelerate moderately to get high mpg.
Eco buttons always give me poor results and are not worth using.

Plus those behind me are not irritated and I am rewarded with the best mpg from 87 octane and I actually get to use the AC and in the winter heated seats are most efficient.
No not directed at you.

Never had a car before with an ECO button. I remain skeptical.

BUTTTTTTTTTTTTT with our singular CRV example, thread topic, we can eek out better MPG using the button. And it's a PITA. There are like sixteen other buttons on the wheel (Touring Model) which I never use. Put the ECO button for RIGHT or even left thumb!!!
 

himemsys

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OP, try putting it in S at the bottom of a big hill and see if that really wakes it up to provide a lot more power going up hills.
Tried this today. It definitely makes a difference, but in most situations, it's a little more RPM than I need. Simply driving in D with ECON off is enough most of the time. Just throwing it into S in most situations adds about 500 RPM, which to me seems excessive in most situations. I noticed when going down a 7% grade, it keeps the RPMs right above 3000, which helps with engine braking but hurts MPG. This car seems to spend most of its time at around 2000 RPM, which is a happy spot for responsiveness and fuel economy.
 
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Using engine breaking when going down a hill does not use any significant amount of fuel even though the engine will turn at faster RPMs. The throttle plate is at the idle position and the engine computer will not have to add much fuel to keep the proper level of oxygen in the exhaust because with the throttle plate at idle the is little air going into the engine.

Engine breaking really makes the brakes last longer. On some long steep mountain hills it is almost a must to prevent the brakes from overheating. This is especially true on hot days.
 
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I like the econ button in our ‘15. It keeps the engine rpm’s lower but still digs in. By my ear it primarily seems to take 15% out of the throttle and perhaps biases the transmission a little. As mentioned above, Sport mode is a surprisingly well-tuned in ours and can definitely be helpful for negotiating aggressive traffic with less pedal drama.
 

himemsys

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Using engine breaking when going down a hill does not use any significant amount of fuel even though the engine will turn at faster RPMs. The throttle plate is at the idle position and the engine computer will not have to add much fuel to keep the proper level of oxygen in the exhaust because with the throttle plate at idle the is little air going into the engine.

Engine breaking really makes the brakes last longer. On some long steep mountain hills it is almost a must to prevent the brakes from overheating. This is especially true on hot days.
Good point about the fuel economy. I was making the wrong assumption that higher RPM = more fuel used. I would imagine engine braking also is easier on the CVT.
 

himemsys

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Just did our last fill up prior to starting the journey back home tomorrow morning. The car said we averaged 34.2 MPG on the most recent tank, but the math came out to 33.8 MPG at the pump. The car's MPG calculation is always a little higher than the pump measurement.

Total trip so far is 32.2 MPG by the car's calculation, and 31.65 MPG at the pump: 45.15 gallons got us 1429 miles.
 
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Good point about the fuel economy. I was making the wrong assumption that higher RPM = more fuel used. I would imagine engine braking also is easier on the CVT.
If your hill isn't that steep or long, using as little engine braking as possible extends the rolling distance and/or keeps your speed up. In my area we seem have lots of small hills where its better to coast in neutral for a mile, than use engine braking for a quarter mile, then need a small throttle input for 3/4 of a mile. Easy to do in my manual transmission car, I tried once to use neutral to coast with the Outback and it doesn't re-engage the CVT all that smoothly at 55mph. The Outback also nearly idles at 1400rpm when coasting in "gear" so its not the fuel savings that the Focus gets, idling at 800rpm for a mile compared to 3/4 of a mile at 3% throttle at just to spin the motor to 2400rpm at 55mph.
 
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Engine braking puts a little bit of use on the entire drive train, but nothing significant.


I tried drifting in neutral a few times when the slope of the hill was such that letting off the throtle slowed the vehicle down while in D and I did not want to slow down. After several uses with no problem, one day it made a mechanical jolt and mechanical bang when I put it back in D while still moving. So from that I realized it is not engineered to always provide smooth re-engagement from neutral to drive while still moving. So I no longer do that. Now the only time I will put it in neutral to drift is if I know I will be able to come to a full stop before putting it back into drive.
 
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