RLI BIOSYN 0W-20, 4629mi, 09 Toyota Yaris

[REDDOG]

2009 Toyota Yaris 1.5 1NZ-FE Auto 9,603 miles on unit at time of sample.

RLI BIOSYN 0W-20 installed 11/02/09 at 4,974 unit miles and in use for 4,629 miles and 6 mo, 1 week through the winter. Toyota engine block heater was used when possible during the cold winter weather on a timer for 1-5 hrs prior to start up.

Factory Air Filter

MANN ML1009 oil filter

Shell 87 octane E10

Mixed city/rural driving (probably 25/75) with an occasional highway trip. I'd call my driving "mild hypermiling"-I don't idle more than 30 sec or so at a time usually. Unit is shut down at longer stop lights etc. I drive pretty conservatively and use an instant mpg gauge for feedback for best fuel economy. Most trips are 10 miles in length or less, frequently with multiple starts per trip. Lifetime AVG FE at time of sample was 41.7 mpg, with a best tank this interval of 45.6 and a worst tank of 38.9 mpg(dang snow and ice!).

Previous analysis and background here:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1693735


Analysis by Dyson Analysis.

Fe---8

Cu---2

Sn---0

Pb---1

Cr---1

Ni---0

Al---2

Ti---0

Ag---0

Ca---1811

Mg---48

Z----942

P----1051

Ba---2

Mo---40

Sb---132

Si---13

Na---11

B----9

K----0

V----0

Visc @40C=40.0

Visc@100C= 7.9

TAN 3.12

Flash=280

OX----145

Nit---12

KF=526

TBN 4.9

Fuel 1.64

Soot 0

Glycol 0.0

V Index 174

 

[Rob_Roy]

Wear metals look excellent. This oil can obviously handle some fuel and still deliver excellent wear results. The flashpoint is one of the lowest I remember seeing in a UOA. Also, I'm not sure of the oxidation scale used by this lab, but 145 sure seems high.

 

[Pablo]

Looks great to me.

I just wonder what Toyota will say when you have a warranty claim. It's obviously NOT an API SM oil.

 

[gathermewool]

RLI AND Dyson, wow! That's a really expensive oil change. I don't understand your logic, though. $150+/oil change and you're worried about saving maybe $10 in gas over the OCI by mild-hypermiling?

 

[JAG]

Originally Posted By: Rob_Roy
This oil can obviously handle some fuel and still deliver excellent wear results. The flashpoint is one of the lowest I remember seeing in a UOA. Also, I'm not sure of the oxidation scale used by this lab, but 145 sure seems high.

The flashpoint was measured by the closed cup method which gives lower values than the open cup method used by most other labs. The oxidation measurement is high because the large amount of esters in the oil, which contain oxygen atoms, get measured and mixed with true oxidation.

 

[21Rouge]

Originally Posted By: gathermewool
RLI AND Dyson, wow! That's a really expensive oil change. I don't understand your logic, though. $150+/oil change and you're worried about saving maybe $10 in gas over the OCI by mild-hypermiling?


Now I dont want to put words in REDDOG's mouth but it may be the case that now, after seeing these very good wear #s that his next OCI will be significantly longer and with possibly no need for a Dyson Analysis.

 

[prax]

Another great report.

This engine is suppose to use 5W-30. Obviously 0W-20 isn't hurting it.

 

[gathermewool]

Originally Posted By: 21Rouge
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
RLI AND Dyson, wow! That's a really expensive oil change. I don't understand your logic, though. $150+/oil change and you're worried about saving maybe $10 in gas over the OCI by mild-hypermiling?


Now I dont want to put words in REDDOG's mouth but it may be the case that now, after seeing these very good wear #s that his next OCI will be significantly longer and with possibly no need for a Dyson Analysis.

I trust Terry Dyson with all things oil, but it all comes down to what the consumer is comfortable with. FWIW, I sent in a sample after ~3kmi on bulk dealer 5W-30, and then again after ~4600 miles on Rotella T6 for my '08 turbo Subie. When I asked about alternatives he said I wouldn't have a problem running RLI up to 10kmi.

This is in no way a criticism - we all make money and choose to spend it however we see fit - but an opinion. If I planned to use such an expensive oil I'd do three samples - The first oil after FF, another at a reasonable interval on the expensive oil of choice, and then finally another as a fine-tuning analysis. I'd then only send in a sample every so often or if I got curious - I think we all have that strange curiosity that leads us to spend too mch on oil-related maintenance! haha

 

[Rob_Roy]

Originally Posted By: JAG
Originally Posted By: Rob_Roy
This oil can obviously handle some fuel and still deliver excellent wear results. The flashpoint is one of the lowest I remember seeing in a UOA. Also, I'm not sure of the oxidation scale used by this lab, but 145 sure seems high.

The flashpoint was measured by the closed cup method which gives lower values than the open cup method used by most other labs. The oxidation measurement is high because the large amount of esters in the oil, which contain oxygen atoms, get measured and mixed with true oxidation.


Thanks for the information, I learn something new everyday.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Pablo
Looks great to me.

I just wonder what Toyota will say when you have a warranty claim. It's obviously NOT an API SM oil.


I wonder about those things myself.

 

[Mokanic]

Where are these guys that holler about API oil now?

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Mokanic
Where are these guys that holler about API oil now?


I don't know. But here is something to think about. The OP used a block heater during the winter, IMO use of a block heater would help reduce wear metals. Any oil with a block heater IMO would have done better than an oil w/o a block heater. The OP is from ME, it gets pretty cold there in the winters.

 

[prax]

Group II oil with a block heater doing better than a Group III, IV, V without one? I wouldn't be too sure about that.

 

[REDDOG]

Originally Posted By: gathermewool
RLI AND Dyson, wow! That's a really expensive oil change. I don't understand your logic, though. $150+/oil change and you're worried about saving maybe $10 in gas over the OCI by mild-hypermiling?


True. They are my hobbies as well though so it's worth it. I honestly never knew ringing a drop of gas for all it's worth could be so much fun.

 

[demarpaint]

My point is the block heater is a big factor, that's all. Especially in NE USA winters.

 

[REDDOG]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Mokanic
Where are these guys that holler about API oil now?


I don't know. But here is something to think about. The OP used a block heater during the winter, IMO use of a block heater would help reduce wear metals. Any oil with a block heater IMO would have done better than an oil w/o a block heater. The OP is from ME, it gets pretty cold there in the winters.

I honestly don't have any proof how the EBH affects metals, but based on my other vehicles without them I would say very little. My wife's Rogue throws the same low numbers with Schaeffer's summer or winter.

This oil cranked super easy with or without being preheated. I honestly use the heater to preheat for FE more than anything else. Plus I get heat quicker too without idling the engine.

 

[demarpaint]

Interesting observations, thanks for posting!

 

[REDDOG]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Interesting observations, thanks for posting!


You're certainly welcome. I appreciate all the posters who share at BITOG and I try to do the same. It's interesting to hear other's ideas and opinions. I thank you all for the responses.

 

[odie]

any increase in your mileage using 0w-20 ? What did you average for the cold months ?

 

[REDDOG]

I would guess there was a slight gain with the 0W-20. I can't say for sure how much due to the changing weather and the fact this was such a young engine when this oil was installed. I did have two of my best tanks ever (including a personal best 45.6 mpg) immediately following this oil going into service.

Between Nov and late April I averaged 41.87 mpg.