RL? M1? Maybe? Maybe not?

[shortyb]

Ok, first off, sorry if this post gets long. Second, I'm a newb here and need some help/advise.

I currently own 3 cars, an 02 Nissan Sentra Spec-V (5K miles), Nissan Xterra with 3.3L V-6 (89K), and a 93 Honda Civic 1.6L VTEC (62K). The Xterra and Civic get driven on a daily basis approx 85% city and 15% H-way. The Sentra is pretty much a weekend car that gets driven fairly "spiritedly". I live in Northern Va. with the usual weather extremes that go with this location, use Amoco 93 in all the cars and maintain them very well IMO.

All of them, with the exception of the Sentra, have had Redline 5W-30, 10W-30, or a blend in between since after break-in. I arbitrarily set a drain interval at 5K and have never done any oil analysis. Since my Sentra is due for a change to synthetic, I'm wondering about going with RL or M1. Since I will now have 3 cars running synth, should I go with the M1 to save a few bucks or stay with the RL? I can get M1 for about $3.90/qt. versus $7.75/qt for the RL. I have been reading all the posts and following both VOAs and UOAs and it seems the M1 has some pretty good #s especially since they got the SS re-re-formulated with a barrier additive. I'm rather concerned about some of RL's #s that seem to indicate more wear (higher metals #s) than M1 under similar conditions. In nutshell, I'd like some pros and cons with my proposed choice. If I do switch, is it recommended that I Auto-Rx the other cars prior to a switch to M1? FYI, I have never had any oil related problems in any of the cars. Thanks for any advise.

 

[Pablo]

M1 or Amsoil.

 

[Patman]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Pablo:
M1 or Amsoil.

---

Just curious Pablo, why don't you like Redline? It's shown excellent UOAs on here.

 

[3 Mad Ponchos]

If you're going to keep changing at 5k then definitely go with the Mobil 1. That oil can handle 5k with ease so might as well save some bucks.

Cheers, 3MP

 

[TooSlick]

I don't recommend Amsoil unless you are doing change intervals of at least 7500 miles. I'd use something cheaper like Mobil 1 instead. I can't speak for Redline, but it is also expensive with a 5000 mile change interval.

TooSlick

 

[Pablo]

I draw no conclusions on Redline.

But the few anal's I have seen did not seem to put it on a plateau above Amsoil or M1. Therefore to answer his question, I think he should save $3/qt, use Amsoil and still be able to extend his OIC to 7500 miles, at least.

 

[shortyb]

Thanks for the replies, keep 'em coming please!

I am going to do UOAs on both the Xterra and the Civic to get an RL baseline. Since I've been using the RL for quite some time, I will assume its pretty much settled by now. If my numbers knock my socks off, I'll be more inclined to stay with RL. If they end up being just ok, I'll try the M1 and do a few UOAs and see how it goes.

Any thoughts on the Auto-Rx question? Thanks again for the insights.

 

[J]

quote:

---

Originally posted by shortyb:
use Amoco 93 in all the cars and maintain them very well IMO.

All of them, with the exception of the Sentra, have had Redline 5W-30, 10W-30, or a blend in

---

Hi,

You're basically spending too much money.
None of your cars need premium fuel, and none
of your cars need red-line.

Mobil 1 is 1/2 the cost of Redline. For your
application, it will do just as well.

thanks

Jae

 

[Ken2]

I agree with J.

I'd save more money and use Schaeffer #703 10W-30 in all these cars, maybe #701 5w-30 in case your possible lowest winter temperature is below the 10W-30 llimit shown in your owner's manuals. You'll probably get equally good engine protection as you're getting with Redline or will get with Mobil 1. Auto-Rx in the two higher mileage cars might be a good idea; try it in one (Nissan?) and see if you notice any difference.


Ken

[ April 07, 2003, 02:46 PM: Message edited by: Ken2 ]

 

[Bror Jace]

I have an '03 Spec-V and will be using Schaeffer Supreme 7000 5W30 in it for the first 12,000 or so miles. Then I will switch to Red Line of the same weight for the foreseeable future.

One area I believe the Red Line will help is the anti-foam additive. This big 2.5L has balance shafts which churn in the crankcase oil and an oil which doesn't have serious anti-foaming capabilities is going to be at a serious disadvantage.

--- Bror Jace

 

[Steve S]

My opinion,use the lowest price oil that does the job .The most valuable part of this website is the UOA,S why, look at the wear munbers and the life of the oils .If the miles are short between oil changes use a good petro oil "also the ambient temps, if I lived where it got below freezing All time synthetic oil would be the choice for sure.If I put alot of miles on my vehicles, Synthetics the only way to go. Look at how the oil is to be used then choose the oil for fit . Any good oil will work for spirited driving from my experience. BROR,Balance shafts don't foam the oil to worry about.

 

[buster]

quote:

---

I don't recommend Amsoil unless you are doing change intervals of at least 7500 miles. I'd use something cheaper like Mobil 1 instead. I can't speak for Redline, but it is also expensive with a 5000 mile change interval

---

I'm liking M1 more and more these days as the analysis comes in. I just don't see where any other oil has proven better, even at longer drains beyond 7,500 miles. Schaeffer's as well is a great oil. On paper, M1 doesn't look as good as RL or Amsoil, but it is just as good for short or long drains based on what I've seen.

[ April 07, 2003, 07:02 PM: Message edited by: buster ]

 

[DEWFPO]

my humble $0.02,

Run M1. (you can even get it at Costco type warehouses)

Since you've been running good quality synthetics for the life of the vehicles and change at 5k, I don't think you would gain much with an Auto-Rx application.

 

[YZF150]

Agree. For 5K change interval, use Mobil1. Forget the Auto-Rx; you don't need it with the oil you've been using.

 

[shortyb]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Steve S:
BROR,Balance shafts don't foam the oil to worry about.

---

This is true in most cases but the shafts on the QR25DE engine do indeed foam the oil quite a bit because of their location. On a forum that I belong to, B15sentra.net, several members have removed the balance shafts and reported whp gains on the dyno and subjectively better oil performance. How they come to the latter conclusion I don't know, but it makes sense because the shafts aren't whipping around in the pan oil.

I appreciate all the info! I really need to do the UOAs to get a better understanding and truly see if the higher cost is justified for the RL (I doubt it now after reading all the info). It'll take me awhile because I intend to do a few UOAs after the change to M1. I'll keep everyone posted.

[ April 08, 2003, 08:38 AM: Message edited by: shortyb ]

 

[Bror Jace]

shortyb, I'll have to look and see who makes it, but supposedly someone has a kit which removes the counter-rotating balance shafts and replaces them with a windage tray.

The result is another quart or so in oil capacity and an additional 9 horsepower. Supposedly, the engine didn't feel any less smooth with the balance shafts gone.

This was mentioned in a recent Sport Compact Car article which pitted a bunch of these souped-up econo-cars against each other.

Oh, and the fuel requirement (or is it only a recommendation??) for my '03 Spec-V is 91 Octane. My choices at my favorite station are 87, 89, 93, 94 so I've been using 93 so far.

The price points are not evenly spaced between the grades. 89 and 94 seem to be unusually expensive per octane point.

--- Bror Jace

 

[vettenuts]

I am not sure where you are finding the cost savings on M1 vs. Amsoil. The cheapest I can find M1 has been $4.77/quart and I can get the Amsoil for $5.20/quart. For me, I just switched to Amsoil (had been running M1) and increased my interval to 7,500 miles to make up the cost difference from 5,000 using M1.