Right oil for Saturn and Silverado

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I have 2 vehicles that I have questions on:

I have a 2001 Saturn SL1 with 50k miles and a 2001 Silverado (5.3L) with 49k miles.I have used either Valvoline or Napa 5W-30 dino oil every 3,000 miles on both. We put a lot of miles on the car (20k in the last year since it gets us 37 mpg!) and have only put 7,000 miles on the truck during the past 15 months (I use the truck to tow a 22’ camper).

Thanks to this website, I will be staying away from Fram filters from now on, and instead will probably go with Napa gold or one of the other top filters.

After spending hours reading all these posts and oil analysis reports, I have become confused as to which oil would be the best. I originally thought I could go to Mobil 1 EP and do longer oil change intervals. However, now I am thinking about getting the best dino oil I can get (possibly Havoline?) and use the GM oil life monitor to tell me when I should change them instead of doing it every 3,000.

The other thing that worries me is the posts I read about Saturns burning oil (mine is fine) and the possibility of timing chain failure. I was hoping to extend the OCI with synthetic, but that might not be the best thing with this vehicle.

Any suggestions for this newcomer? My boss have given me some Lube Control to try out, so I might be using that soon!
 
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The other thing that worries me is the posts I read about Saturns burning oil (mine is fine) and the possibility of timing chain failure. I was hoping to extend the OCI with synthetic, but that might not be the best thing with this vehicle.

Any suggestions for this newcomer? My boss have given me some Lube Control to try out, so I might be using that soon! [/QB]

The oil burning with Saturns is just reality. While not a high dollar car/engine, the way saturn ignores this issue doesnt endeavor them to a lot folks. You can change your oil at regular intervals and perform all the maint. that is recommended and still have a oil burner on your hands. From what i have read, it seems to be a oil ring groove in the pistons that allow oil to accumulate, then get "fried" in the groove causing the oil consumption.

Some people claim less consumption after a Auto RX treatment or two. I havent seen anything definitive one way or the other. At this point, i am going to stick with OCI's that are conservative, ensure the PCV value is changed, etc, and cross my fingers.

It seems the problem usually starts around 50,000 miles so you are just now entering the "zone". I have a 99 SC2 with around 45,000 miles so its closing in on the "zone" also.

I used dino all of the cars life till around 40,000 miles. I changed to M1 at that point for approximately 3000 miles. During that time, the car used about a quart of oil in 3000 miles. Previously, on dino, it never used any. I changed from M1 to GC at the 43000 mile mark. I have approximately 2000 miles on the GC with no oil consumption.

I am going to stick with the GC and run probably 5000 OCI's. I want the high temp protection and dont mind spending a bit more on synthetic.

just imho, ymmv
darrell
sin city
 
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to the forum, B of B.

I'll take a pass regarding any recommendations for the Saturn, but I like the GM 5.3L engines and have one in my 2001 GMC Sierra 4x4.

These are relatively low rpm engines as they only turn 1500 rpm @ 60 mph in 4th/overdrive.

My favorite dino's are the 10W-30 grade in Chevron/Havoline, Pennzoil, or the TropArtic synblend. The Napa Gold #1522 is the PF-59 equivalent and a good choice for colder weather start-ups.

Also, changing the PCV valve is a 30 second job & 2-3 bucks, so suggest this at about every 20K miles.
 
I'm not an oil expert but I've started running M1 5w30 EP in a 5.3l '01 Suburban. I'm going for 10k OCI. This should put me at 10 months to 1 year changes. Right now it's using some oil so I'm hoping that it settles down. This is my first run w/synthetic as I've only owned it for the last 10k miles (55k currently on it). If the consumption continues I'll try a heavier grade or go to Mobil 7500. I can't afford to use $5+ / qt oil every 1500 miles.

As for the Saturn, I'm not aware that the oil problem affects the SL1. I had an SL2 and my brother had an SL1. We both hit 100k before selling and mine used oil for 50k miles and the usage increased to 1 qt per 800-1000 miles. My brothers SL1 never used oil. I sold it before I found this site or I might have tried a piston soak, Auto-RX, etc.
 
for the truck, id suggest an ac delco filter (may help if you get a little knock), and a 5w-40 synthetic oil, either m1 truck & SUV or rotella. dont run 5 or 10w-30 mobil1 - I dont think it does good in GM truck engines, and 5 or 10w-30 pennzoil will do better, especially with LC. My baisis fro the 40 wt oil int he truck is reccomendation read on this site... I have the most faith in pennzoil though.

For the saturn, I seem to recall many having good results running 15w40! Seems to protect and keep the engine from using so much. Youy might consider delo 400 or delvac 1300 super. Id also consider the two oils listed above, or any good 5 or 10w-30 weight m1 variety (standard or EP).

If you want to go dino, use 5 or 10w-30 pennzoil in the truck, with LC added... Cnat comment on a choice for the saturn.

JMH
 
I'm currently running Mobil Clean 7500 10w30 in my wife's 2001 GMC Yukon XL with the 5.3L and it seems to be running very well. We just bought the vehicle and this is the first oil change I've done on it, but so far the thing literally runs like a sewing machine.

It's so quiet, in fact, that I sometimes can't tell it's running when I'm standing close to the hood. At this point, the Mobil Clean 7500 seems like a really good match for this engine. I'll get some UOAs eventually to confirm everything is going well, but that might be several months away.

At $2.18 a quart this oil seems to be a solid value, especially since it's supposedly got a very robust additive package and PAO blend.
 
Welcome to the board BB!

My 96 SL2 with 134K burns no oil. However I have experienced a much more well behaved at-idle Saturn and wonderful fuel economy using FP / LC in tandem.

As for oil choice, it's really a tough "one size fits all" answer. Pennzoil 10w-40 HM was great, as was Chevron Delo 400 15w-40, all M1 products, Pennzoil, Havoline, Syntec, etc... I just tend to shy away from any oil that uses, or claims to use Group I base stocks as far my untrained eye can tell. I feel that the thicker 5w/10w-30 oils (mainly Castrol HM and Pennzoil HM) give the most robust protection, kill off as much NVH as possible, retain excellent MPG, and meet cold cranking spec's....all without spending too much.

I wouldn't push Saturns beyond a 5K OCI without oil analysis given they are prone to burning oil and timing chain issues. Once you fine-tune it, then extend the OCI with the M1 EP or other top-notch synthetic oil.
 
TNS... group I oils apparently offer some cleaning capacity when blended into other higher basestocks, thus the reason why some oils keep them, though their results and price would say otherwise.

JMH
 
JHZ, I didn't know that. I remember reading something about the cheaper oils like the older SuperTech and Valvoline dinos where Saturns were more prone to oil burning (due to ring issues) due to these oils. Comparitively, I've never seen that same statement made in regards to Group II (or higher) oils.
 
I really don't feel that Valvoline is a terrible oil, especially since my 1995 Ford Aerostar (3.0) just turned 170k and it still runs fine. I have always used 10W-30 Valvoline/Napa oil in it every 3k and don't plan on changing that now.

However, thanks to this website, I know there are much better oils for my other vehicles!

Rodney
 
My thoughts

Silverado-----M1 Truck and SUV--change per OLM.

Saturn------High Mileage oils worked good in my daughters SL2,changed every 3500 miles,maybe a half to three quarters useage between oci's.Met it's demise at 148,000 tree,not mechanical.
 
Welcome...I have a 5.3L and have had good results with Castrol GTX and Syntec (see UOA section...search under my member #) changing it at less than 5K. I just sent a sample of Havoline 10W30 for analysis and should have some data within a week. I think the Havoline wear numbers will be as good or better, so I bought several cases now that it is on sale.

There are a lot of UOAs for the 5.3L and 4.8L engines. They seem to show better wear numbers with a good dino vs. M1 (see Bill in Utah's data). Castrol/Havoline/Pennzoil with a good filter (AC Delco, Wix, etc) and change it regularly. Towing a trailer in towing mode is harder on the engine that just driving it, so you might want to change it more often.

These are just my opinions!!
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I decided what to try this fall in my truck-

I went to Wally world today and picked up 6 quarts of Havoline 10W-30 for $8. I also picked up a Napa Gold Filter yesterday, and that was a bit pricey (compared to the cheapo Fram's) at $7 with tax. I figure I'll be pulling the camper around quite a bit this fall and we'll have to see how this does. I decided on this oil based upon the reports for the 5.3/4.8 I have read, especially the ones that showed a higher metal content with the synthetics (M1). I might switch to the 5w-30 for the winter...although I run 10w-30 in my van year-round.

I haven't really decided on the Saturn..my boss thinks that I should go with M1 and do entended OCI (that would be ideal for me since I put on a lot of miles), but from everything I've read with the Saturns has me leaning towards using a higher mileage oil such as the Castol or Pennzoil HM with a good filter and LC. With mostly highway driving, I might get more than 3k out of the oil with the OLM system.

This is really interesting.....my wife was yelling at me for spending too much time in oil aisle today!
 
GC
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rehabilitated my 116,000 mile S-Sat

went from 1 qt/1000mi to over 4000 and 37mpg too. If not for BITOG would never know it even existed.

Am currently running Rotella T 5W40 with less than one pint consumption in 3500 miles.

Back to GC for the winter.
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My '00 Silverado w/ 5.3 (22k miles) now has M1 10-30 w/ Bosch Premium filter and OCI's dictated by OLM. Was using dino Valvoline or Pennzoil 5/10-30 w/ 1yr OCI or when OLM lights up with Fram filters.

Next year, it will get more M1 but with either WIX or AC-Delco filter.
 
Hey B of B,
Welcome to BITOG!!
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See, I told you that you would get hooked on BITOG!! You'll get so much more advice on what type of oil, etc...that your head will spin!

Use that LC I gave you! If you order a gallon of it...go ahead and order a gallon of Fuel Power, too. ToyNSat is right...my Civic purrs with using both. I've been lax from time to time using the FP because I forget to bring it along to the gas station with me...

I still think you'd do great using M1 or M1 SUV in both your vehicles. You haven't made a bad choice with Havoline, though...good UOA to back you up there! Ultimately, German Castrol 0w30 would be your dream oil (I forgot to tell you about that one!
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), however, if you can find it anywhere in N.E. Indiana, let me know cause I can't find it anywhere!

Talk to ya at work!
 
B of B, I have had good results in my 5.3L with GC 0w30, and at times this engine pulls a 7500 lbs trailer.......GCVW of 13,500 lbs loaded(family, quad, etc). I'm in the process of running a 6000mile OCI with 1500 miles of that pulling the trailer.
Shorter OCI's with the same driving conditions had excellent results.

As you know the GC formulation has been changed and I await the new gold Castrol UOA's, if it doesn't pan out I will be searching for a replacement soon, probably Esso 0W30 XD-3 full synthetic at 1/2 the price of Castrol may I add.
 
Here's another vote for 15w40 in saturns! I'm running Pennzoil LL in my 95 right now. It was also good in our 96, since sold. I only run it summers though.

My wife's 2000 has tropartic 10w30 in it presently. Saturn finally made positive changes to the block and lower engine in 2000 that might help oil consumption. True to that rumor, her car only burns 1 quart of the thinner stuff every 2000 miles, compared to mine at 1 per 600. There are a lot of oil-burning 91-99 S-series-es that can give all of them a bad rap.

I would not go with the oil life monitor on the saturn but instead dump dino at 3-4k. Alternatively run mobil one (either variety) or GC and dump it per the monitor.

Also you can run an oversize 3600/fl400s filter (for a ford 3.0 v6) on that saturn and find it easier the next time.
 
Thanks for the advice on the oversize filter, I will have to give that a try. I bought the Napa Gold 1348 for it already for the next change. I hear a "tick" at start-up for apx 1-2 sec thanks to that FRAM oil filter I am using!
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ToyotaNSaturn, I think that you're right about extending the OCI, I'd only feel comfortable with it with a UOA with this car. I feel like buying some M1 (or try to find some GC) and trying it with LC and see how it works. (You probably like hearing that GreenElixer!)
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Since we're camping today, changed the oil in the truck last night with Havoline 10W-30 and LC, with a new Napa Gold Air Filter (that was salty @ $17+). Truck runs quite, but I've never really had any issues but a little "tick" in the winter when it was not warmed up a bit. Then again I probably had a Fram filter in it too!
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Thanks for all the responses....lots of knowledge on this website!
 
I changed the Saturn to Pennzoil 5w-30 HM (type SM) with LC added. There was NO tick at start-up after letting the car sit overnight (no more el-cheapo filters for me!).

I dumped the Napa 5w-30 oil after only 1300 miles since I wanted to eliminate the "tick" that the Fram filter was giving me.
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