Ridding a gremlin from the electrical system of an RV.

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Yes, I intentionally bought a camper with electrical issues. Issues that led the previous owner to buy a different unit, and the have the need to unload this one. The local RV dealer refused to take it as a trade-in or consignment unit, due to the obvious electrical issues. And because of it... I was able to buy it at my price.

The camper, a 2007 Starcraft ST - 29 foot, has a good roof, a good awning, recently replaced tires and wheels, and no signs of leaks. The upholstery and carpet inside are clean and spotless, with no sign of wear. This camper appears to have been used very, very little in the past. A nice, solid, clean unit with little use.

However, it had electrical issues... electrical issues bad enough for the previous owner to get spooked over it. Turn on one light, and it doesn't go on... but the light next to it comes on. Plug the camper into 120 volt power, and some of the outside clearance lights come on. Run the furnace, and the air conditioner makes a clicking noise. And the refrigerator/freezer was super slow to cool down. When the lights were hooked up to the truck, when activating left turn signal... the left one on the trailer wouldn't blink, but the right one would.

Nothing inside the camper that was powered by 12 volt power would work, even with a brand new (and known good, fully charged) 12 volt battery installed. Swapping batteries made no difference.

A mischievous gremlin, indeed.

I simply assumed that it would need a new power center (converter/charger/distribution unit) from the behavior that I was seeing. Since Dad has been an electrician for 40 years, and I worked for him when I was younger, I knew that I could buy everything would be needed for right at $125, and then install it myself in around 2 hours. An RV repair shop would charge at least $600 to do this.

Before ordering anything or tearing anything apart, I did a basic inspection. And what did I find underneath the camper? The ground wire for the inverter (#8 bare copper), wasn't attached to the frame... at all. It was dangling in mid-air. The screw that had attached the ground to the frame had been over-tightened (likely at the factory), and the head had snapped off of it at some point in time. And that's likely when all of the problems started.

A little sandpaper and a new 1/4-20 bolt... and the gremlin is gone. So, I took an extra hour and found all of the other ground connections to the frame, took them apart, and cleaned them all up while I was at it.

A couple hours of troubleshooting and effort, and a 25 cent bolt... saved me hundreds and hundreds of dollars. A great deal when I bought it, and a repair that cost me next to nothing.

When nothing makes sense... always check the condition of your grounds.
 
Good find. Bad grounds cause all kinds of interesting problems as electricity tries to get to ground through other paths. While you're at it, check where the grounds for various accessories join. My popup camper had nearly all of them (about 8 wires) jammed under one wire nut that was designed to take 2-3 wires, then wrapped it with about 50 feet of electrical tape to hold it all together. I had a box of wire nuts and some extra #14 wire, so that got cleaned that up.
 
Good job !

What puzzles me , sounds like there is / was some " cross talk " between the 120 VAC system and the 12 VDC system ( When the lights were hooked up to the truck, when activating left turn signal... the left one on the trailer wouldn't blink, but the right one would. ) ?

Best of luck to you !
 
Nice. Sounds like you scoped this out for the worst case going in, and will make out quite nicely. Good job.
 
Question:

What should I apply to the surface of my nice, clean and tight ground connections to the frame, to protect them against rust going forward?

Coat them with some black spray paint? Simply smear a little moly grease from the grease gun on them? Spray some white lithium grease on them?
 
I'd use some dielectric grease between stud and crimp terminal and frame (it'll squeeze out as necessary). Noalox in a pinch should work also. Then probably anything over it oil-like.
 
RV fridges are notorious for slow cool downs ,up to 48 hours from a warm ambient (on electric) propane a bit better.
 
Originally Posted by honeeagle
RV fridges are notorious for slow cool downs ,up to 48 hours from a warm ambient (on electric) propane a bit better.

Really should only take about 8 hours.
If longer, check for a bad thermistor.
 
Yes it sounds like bad grounds.

If properly built, all the 12 volt grounds should be a network of (usually) white wires that lead back to a bus bar in the 12 volt electrical center. There should be only one ground to the frame, which never actually carries any current.

On the fridge, yes they are slow to cool down also make sure the RV is set up totally level while running the fridge.
 
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Originally Posted by supton
I'd use some dielectric grease between stud and crimp terminal and frame (it'll squeeze out as necessary). Noalox in a pinch should work also. Then probably anything over it oil-like.


Dielectric grease is an insulator not a conductor. Clean you connections, bolt them together then put the dielectric over the outside to protect the connection if you want to use it.

Quote
"Dielectric grease can also be applied to the metal parts of virtually any electrical connection that will be exposed to the elements to serve as a sealant that protects the connection from contamination and corrosion. This should be done very carefully, as the grease will cut off the flow of electricity through the connection if some of it is left between the mating surfaces."


Conductive grease in the connection and DE to protect would be best.

Lots of people use DE grease improperly and get away with it but it's not ideal. (I used to..)
 
Nice work! And as stated above, most rv refridgerators take a while to cool down. If you need it to cool faster, run it on gas and place some large freeze blocks in there from your freezer. They cool faster on gas.
 
If you see a Power Company guy out and about , stop and bum a blob of Penetrox or whatever he uses off of him . They'll give you some and a little goes a long way . That's what it's made for .
 
That's awesome, don't tell the seller
grin2.gif


What would you say was the percentage of discount you got off the trailer due to the issues?
 
If you continue to have issues, it could be that the polarity has been swapped at a particular consumer (or more) as the neutral and ground are tied together. This can allow a form of back-feeding.
 
Originally Posted by beanoil
Originally Posted by honeeagle
RV fridges are notorious for slow cool downs ,up to 48 hours from a warm ambient (on electric) propane a bit better.

Really should only take about 8 hours.
If longer, check for a bad thermistor.

not on a warm day with a warm fridge -hard ice-cream on the second day ,if it even gets hard
Thats why I put in a residential
 
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