Resurrecting a 1987 F250 IDI Diesel 4X4 Regular Cab Lariat with a verified 17,000 miles on it.

Joined
Aug 10, 2004
Messages
1,421
Location
High in the Mountains of Central California
It has been sitting in a field for YEARS. It was last started five years ago. I am the second owner, and I know the original owner.

It has a Banks Sidewinder turbo kit. The trans is a C6. Manual locking hubs, BW1356 Transfer Case and a Sterling 10.25" rear axle. The front axle is a Twin-Traction Beam Dana 50. Dual Optima Red Top batteries that may be salvageable, using a charger designed for AGM batteries.

The radiator is pristine - not even the slightest hint of corrosion. The original owner owned a trucking company, and all of the fluids are high-end, as are the belts and hoses.

The body is essentially perfect - not even a ding in it. The interior will need some work due to sun damage; the steering wheel foam/leather covering have fallen apart, leaving the internal metal rim exposed. Surprisingly, the dash and the seat are okay. The interior roof liner has fallen apart and is dangling. The hood needs repainting.

I have not yet started it because I wanted to consult the gurus here at BITOG for advice on how to prepare it for being started, things to look out for, etc. This is my first diesel.

Please opine! And, thanks in advance for your help!
 
Like all vehicles they have their quirks. With a diesel you want to just start it. Don't add oil to the cylinders thinking that is needed. That can cause it to rev uncontrollably.

Once running change the fluids. Use the larger 7.3 powerstroke oil filter and whatever 15w-40 is on sale.

If just 1 glow plug is bad it will shut the whole system down. Do not use starting fluid to start it.
 
So long as the engine is free you shouldn't have any issues. These things are simple and dead nuts reliable.

The return lines and caps on the injector are the most common trouble because they will cause the fuel system to bleed down when not running. You can get a whole new set of caps, lines, O rings online for less than $50. I would advise changing them as preventive maintenance.

Glow plug system on yours should be the newer style. Like Chris said one glow plug being out will cause the system to malfunction. You can check them with an ohm meter or test light. Be sure to use only motorcraft glow plugs when you do replace them. Autolite and other brands should be avoided at all cost. The tips swell up on them and they break off when it comes time to change them leaving a piece still in the engine. Major pain to remove and sometimes requires removing the head. So stick with OEM glow plugs.
 
It has been sitting in a field for YEARS. It was last started five years ago. I am the second owner, and I know the original owner.

It has a Banks Sidewinder turbo kit. The trans is a C6. Manual locking hubs, BW1356 Transfer Case and a Sterling 10.25" rear axle. The front axle is a Twin-Traction Beam Dana 50. Dual Optima Red Top batteries that may be salvageable, using a charger designed for AGM batteries.

The radiator is pristine - not even the slightest hint of corrosion. The original owner owned a trucking company, and all of the fluids are high-end, as are the belts and hoses.

The body is essentially perfect - not even a ding in it. The interior will need some work due to sun damage; the steering wheel foam/leather covering have fallen apart, leaving the internal metal rim exposed. Surprisingly, the dash and the seat are okay. The interior roof liner has fallen apart and is dangling. The hood needs repainting.

I have not yet started it because I wanted to consult the gurus here at BITOG for advice on how to prepare it for being started, things to look out for, etc. This is my first diesel.

Please opine! And, thanks in advance for your help!
You can't post this subject without some pics... Please do so i wanna see this one.thanks
 
The blocks are very soft. The cylinders cannot be bored either when it wears out. Other wise just not going to get anywhere fast. Turbo is a big bonus
 
The blocks are very soft. The cylinders cannot be bored either when it wears out. Other wise just not going to get anywhere fast. Turbo is a big bonus
Actually International was known for having high nickel content in their blocks. They made blocks and heads for Cummins for awhile and the ones they made are highly desired by the Cummins guys because of their strength.

The problem with the 6.9/ 7.3 engines was that the 7.3s had thinner cylinder walls making them prone to cavitation if the coolant was not maintained with SCA. So boring a 7.3 for a rebuild is a gamble but there are many out there running down the road without issue. The 6.9 can bored out without issue.
 
OP, I’d change what fluids I could, and change the fuel filters. Prefill any spin on fuel filters with new, clean diesel.

I’d turn the engine over by hand first, then crank with the fuel rack closed before glowing and starting. Cycle the glow plugs a few times if allowable, to max time on the timer (not just the light). Start with just a bit of throttle. Take video.
 
My mistake about the blocks being soft. I have seen a handful with huge ridges on the top and bottom of the piston travel. I’ve never had one bored as as I was told by several machinists the walls are too thin to bore. A sleeve is an option but requires lots of machine work and isn’t really reliable.
 
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