replacing battery in lincoln, terminals corroded away

[1 FMF]

have to replace a battery in a 1999 Lincoln town car. Problem is, the existing battery terminals on the oem wiring are one piece. One side was corroded away, the other side I had to break to remove and that clamp is all rusted together. The length of the oem wire to the battery is an exact fit, so if I cut the terminals off I can't just put new ones on because then it'll be too short. The two red wires come out of a harness, so it's not like I can replace a length of wire I don't think. The negative is a little easier. Any ideas? They look like 8 or 6 gauge wire, 2 on the + and one on the -.
Where can I pick up something to butt splice 8/6 gauge wire together?

 

[kenw]

I've seen new terminals on short leads that would work, they came with a set of clamps to use for just the situation you have. Can't remember but I think they were insulated (or at least the + SHOULD be insulated!)

Unfortuantely I have no idea WHICH parts house I saw them at, but I have seen them so I know they exist. Check a decent parts house in your area.

 

[Steve S]

Get new cables.

 

[oilboy123]

You could buy a AGM battery Optima or other brand. Won't have corrosion problems after it's installed.

 

[Steve S]

A late thought also get a new battery but not an exide or one manufactured by exide.

 

[punisher]

The + wire runs to the power distribution box and the starter, the negative runs to the bellhousing bolt near the starter. Not too bad to replace, but you have to get under the car and jack it up. Now that In think about it, they could sometimes be a PITA to replace.

I have replaced more than a few terminal ends on Town Cars/Grand Margs/Crown Vics. You should have at least 3/4" of play in the cables to clamp on a new terminal (brass ones work great). I have seen cars with replacement batteries that were taller than the stock BXT-XX-XXX, that might be where you slack disappeared.

If you are set on butt splicing those wires, welding shops carry crimp on copper collars used to connect large gauge welding lines. I have gone this route before. I crimp them, then solder the splice on, then heatshrink it. Just like working with smaller wires except I used a propane torch to solder the collar/connector.

 

[Mike_dup1]

Replace the cable for sure, the corrosion will creep along the inside of the cable jacket and you will see this problem again if you don't replace them.

Tip-Buy quality, skip the cheap one like you find at Walmart. Can't say is the Ford ones are any good but I would use those anyday over the other lesser qualtiy cables.

 

[The_Jeff]

Another idea if you're short on cable is to cut the dud connector off and get a new GM or dual-post battery and a new side mount connector.

Your Town Car is too nice for this, and you should replace the battery cable, but it's a good "Plan B" if you ever get stuck in the boonies.

See if the battery is centered in its tray or if it can be moved to one side to allow slack. Make sure it's held down tight or it might have been pulling on its own wires.

Remember the starter wire and block grounds rock with the motor, so leave slack.