Replacement window experiences

[BMWTurboDzl]

I've had it with my windows. I've been dealing with leaky / out-of-square windows since the house was built.

I'm looking exploring full-frame replacements or inserts and I'm looking for input.

#1 - Some exterior sills need to be repaired. Do inserts typically come with a cover over the existing sill?
#2 - If the existing window is out of square can an insert be squared up. I have sills and head jams which are not level.

 

[Andrew1972]

Maybe obvious but inserts reduce your window size. I learned this in an older home(1821) with smaller windows I purchased at age 21 and was CLUELESS!

 

[Wolf359]

I've installed off the shelf windows before. Doesn't come with exterior sills. Basically just 4 screws holding the windows in the frame. There's trim pieces which hold the window in on the interior. Could depend on the type of window you have though, casement would be a different setup. The windows were going into wood frames. If the wood frame isn't square, you just square up the frame before installing the window. If you don't square it, then you'll have trouble opening/closing the window. Probably what will happen is that it will be tight/loose on one side. You'd just use more/less caulking/insulation to fill in the gaps. You put the entire window in with the windows closed so it's square when it goes in. Then you open them up to install the screws in the side.

 

[JC1]

I think you are going to use shims to get the window secured into each frame and then spray foam the gap between the frame of the wall and the window frame. Then your casing will cover the inside. You may need some aluminum capping for the outside against the exterior of the house. As long as the window is square and not bowed (due to incorrect shimming) the window should operate correctly.

You shouldn't have a window jammed tight into a rough opening. That's a recipe for disaster. Those shims and low expansion spray foam will allow the window to expand and contract between seasons and temperature changes.

That's the easiest way to get stuff square. If you are trying to square the rough openings you'll drive yourself crazy and make a lot of extra work to do so.

What are your sills made out of and what is on the exterior surfaces of your house, siding, brick, stucco, cedar shingles or something else?

 

[Wolf359]

Oh yeah, you can buy a pack of wood shims and use them where needed. Once you take the trim pieces holding the window in on the inside, you'll see the gaps between the frame of the window and the house.

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

Maybe obvious but inserts reduce your window size. I learned this in an older home(1821) with smaller windows I purchased at age 21 and was CLUELESS!

Ya that's a feature of inserts. No way around it unless you pay for the upcharge on full-frame replacmements.

I've installed off the shelf windows before. Doesn't come with exterior sills. Basically just 4 screws holding the windows in the frame. There's trim pieces which hold the window in on the interior. Could depend on the type of window you have though, casement would be a different setup. The windows were going into wood frames. If the wood frame isn't square, you just square up the frame before installing the window. If you don't square it, then you'll have trouble opening/closing the window. Probably what will happen is that it will be tight/loose on one side. You'd just use more/less caulking/insulation to fill in the gaps. You put the entire window in with the windows closed so it's square when it goes in. Then you open them up to install the screws in the side.

Okay that makes sense. All of my windows are wood and all open/close but for the most part none sit flush against the sill and/or the head. I have two windows where the sill is slanted so bad that it leaves about a 1/2 inch gap at one end. Theoretically all of my wood double-hung windows are the same size but they're all off in some fashion (ex, Frame is 1/4 inch short/long so when closed the top of the bottom sash is not flush with the bottom of the top sash). With some rotted sills I'm wonder if I should just go full-frame replacement.

I think you are going to use shims to get the window secured into each frame and then spray foam the gap between the frame of the wall and the window frame. Then your casing will cover the inside. You may need some aluminum capping for the outside against the exterior of the house. As long as the window is square and not bowed (due to incorrect shimming) the window should operate correctly.

You shouldn't have a window jammed tight into a rough opening. That's a recipe for disaster. Those shims and low expansion spray foam will allow the window to expand and contract between seasons and temperature changes.

That's the easiest way to get stuff square. If you are trying to square the rough openings you'll drive yourself crazy and make a lot of extra work to do so.

What are your sills made out of and what is on the exterior surfaces of your house, siding, brick, stucco, cedar shingles or something else?

Double-hung wood windows (I have to use double hung as replacement because I live in a HOA). They're set in brick, stucco, and cement siding.


Note to all..I will not be doing the work myself.

 

[MParr]

Before you get too involved, make sure that you don’t have any pine trees near your home. Pine tree roots can do a number on a house. Inserts will be fine. Shim them where they will be plumb and level . Trim will be needed inside and out.

 

[lyle]

I've had all the windows replaced in my house, in two stages, when some were 15 years old and the rest 3 years later (due to cost and $$$ involved). All were the original windows, and each time they took them down to the original window opening and built them so they fit right into the rough opening. These included new sills and of course insulation between the frame and the window opening. They trimmed the inside with real oak and stained them to our color spec. I had a retrofit window division of a major window manufacturer do all the work and could not be happier with the results. Mine were all casements (12 units) and three sliders. Also had a sliding patio door replaced at the same time by the same people.

 

[Aredeeem]

Wanna heart attack? Call Renewal by Anderson. Sit thru their 8 hour high pressure sale and then get the digitalis ready before he/she delivers the estimate. The bill was so high(north of 35k) that it turned out to be cheaper to sell the house as is and downsize. That’s what we did.

 

[DallasTexas]

Our house is 21 year's old and last year had all of the windows replaced, they are the rated for sun belt. I must tell you all what a difference it made to upgrade from contractor grade to a better quality window and they are not Anderson or Pella. It reduced my electric bill in summer and gas bill in winter. Well worthwhile for interior comfort.

 

[spasm3]

Our house is 21 year's old and last year had all of the windows replaced, they are the rated for sun belt. I must tell you all what a difference it made to upgrade from contractor grade to a better quality window and they are not Anderson or Pella. It reduced my electric bill in summer and gas bill in winter. Well worthwhile for interior comfort.

I replaced all my cheap contractor vinyl windows with vinyl windows that have Cardinal 366 glass. A/C is much less use, probably 25%. Heat is also less probably 15% using gas heat.

 

[Hall]

Call Renewal by Anderson. The bill was so high(north of 35k)

Co-worker had them quote replacement windows. He has a typical, ranch with standard-size windows (don't know the number). Quoted cost: $40k.