Replaced Cylinder Block on Honda Fit - dump early?

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My Honda dealer recently replaced my cylinder block (pistons, crankshaft, connecting rods, etc) on my 2007 Honda Fit under warranty. The cylinder head (camshaft, valves, etc) is still the old one with over 101k miles. They filled the engine with Pennzoil Platinum 0W20. Should I do a short OCI to get rid of any metal particles? Or do a full OCI?
 
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Why it was replaced? I would be dumping the car at the used car lot if I were you. Who put together the block? Did they reused the oil pump, water pump and all other miscellaneous things that are bolted to the block? How was the cleanliness of the area where it was assembled? Normal shop, backyard or a clean room like a paint booth Unless it was assembled by robots on a clean room I suggest that you replace the oil in 3 to 5 hours of operation.
 
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If it we're me I would drop it between 1000 and 3000 miles. Give the engine time to seat itself. On the other hand if you do decide to dump the car, Look at it on the bright side. End of the year is the best time to buy a new car, your Honda still has a good trade in value because you had the work done at a dealership and interest rates are low. The downside: You'll likely have a car payment that you probably don't have now.
 

SpeedyG75VW

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Originally Posted By: Darwin1138
Why it was replaced? I would be dumping the car at the used car lot if I were you. Who put together the block? Did they reused the oil pump, water pump and all other miscellaneous things that are bolted to the block? How was the cleanliness of the area where it was assembled? Normal shop, backyard or a clean room like a paint booth Unless it was assembled by robots on a clean room I suggest that you replace the oil in 3 to 5 hours of operation.
The engine was making a clicking noise which sounds like the valves needed adjustment. The noise was very subtle and I almost had to strain just to hear it. Took it to the dealer and they told me it wasn't the valves. They said it was something underneath on the bottom end. Said it was easier just to replace the whole thing. Since my car was still under warranty (8 year or 120k mile), it didn't cost me anything. I figured if they want to replace my engine....which I didn't think was necessary.....I might as well since I already had over 100k miles on it already. Plus very few people get a chance to get a brand new engine after putting 100k miles. So the dealer order a brand new cylinder block assembly (Part# 10002-RME-A50) from Honda and took approx 4 days to put it in. Seems to run just as good as the old.....minus the very subtle clicking noise.
 

CT8

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The dealer put a complete factory short block in? If so that is a good deal.
 

JHZR2

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I would. The build may not be done in the same conditions as a factory. We're all parts all new? I know you mentioned some...
 
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Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
Can't hurt, might help. That the definition of something useful.
+1, no harm either way.
 
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Short interval oil/filter change? I like to get the sparkles out of the sump early, others like the sparkles to partially plug the oil filter so it (the filter) is super efficient and removing smaller sparkles. The important thing is get out and do a lot of sustained (30-60 second) 1/2 to 3/4 throttle runs (with the coolant and oil up to operating temp). Rings are pushed against the cylinder walls by combustion pressure. Low combustion pressure (idle or very gentile driving) allows the rings to burnish the cylinder walls instead of break-in the cylinder walls.
 
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It's never a bad idea to do an early oil change after major repairs. Did you ever determine why the previous engine went bad? What oil were you using? What oil change interval?
 
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Originally Posted By: JHZR2
I would. The build may not be done in the same conditions as a factory. We're all parts all new? I know you mentioned some...
You think they slapped that together on a workbench somewhere? All OEM's have remanned replacement shortblocks made in factories they can pull from. I bought a pre assembled 4g63 shortblock from Mitsubishi that came from Canada iirc and that all they did was make remanned engines for OEMs. I would run the oil for a full interval just to not waste oil but you have people on here that think new engines have metal shavings the size of fingernails floating around in there. Either way wont hurt it.
 

SpeedyG75VW

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Originally Posted By: Cujet
It's never a bad idea to do an early oil change after major repairs. Did you ever determine why the previous engine went bad? What oil were you using? What oil change interval?
Actually, the dealer never told me what was wrong. I guess it would be easier and more $$$ for them to replace the whole thing under warranty. My OCIs were always based on the Honda MM and changed with either a quality conventional or synthetic. It was interesting to note that when I asked the Honda master mechanic that was working on my engine how the old engine looked, he said "That thing looked almost brand new!!!". Like I said previously, I didn't think the engine needed to be replaced since it was running smoothly and idles very very quietly. It was just that clicking noise and the thought of my warranty running out next year. I was thinking...well if I let this go and my warranty runs out and the noise gets worse, then I'll be kicking myself for not going to the dealer when it was under warranty. But also like I said earlier, the new engine seems to run just as good as the old...smooth accelerations and quiet idling (but not as quiet as the old). The main thing was the clicking noise is gone. So far...seem pretty happy with the work. I plan on keeping this car until it totally dies, but if I sell it in the future, at least I have documentation that at 101k miles, a new engine block assembly was put it.
 
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Originally Posted By: SpeedyG75VW
Like I said previously, I didn't think the engine needed to be replaced since it was running smoothly and idles very very quietly.
Obviously, we don't have enough information to diagnose what the problem "was" . However, in this case, I will have to defer to the technicians expertise. They see this stuff on a daily basis, and it's very unlikely they will replace an engine (short block) without an accurate diagnosis. The Fit engine is a small engine with lightweight components. Excess clearance on a pin, piston, rod bearing or a cracked ring land could produce a ticking sound instead of a classic "knock". Unless you have more information than you are posting here, I'm guessing your engine probably failed due to excess wear on one or more internal components. There is a common issue with Fit engines. The lost motion spring in the valvetrain has a lack of lubrication and fails. I'd choose quality oil and change it frequently.
 

CT8

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Originally Posted By: oliveoil
What is a "lost motion spring"?
It is found on bottom of the found motion spring . They operate with an antagonistic fashion.
 
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Did they ask for your oil / Filter receipts from day one like many here feel the lack of will void any warranty work of this magnitude?
 
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