Repairing clear coat failure (how to?) OR - Do they not have sun in Sweden? (Volvo UV damage)

Joined
Sep 20, 2014
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I have a new-to-me 2004 Volvo XC70. Apparently, these years of Volvo can get a lot of UV damage to certain exterior parts. Fortunately, the paint is all quite nice and will polish out beautifully. But a few trim pieces I have to fix/replace. One is these plastic trim pieces that run along the windshield and over the rain gutter above the doors. The clear coat failure is only on these plastic pieces and not on any "real" body panels.

I found a DIY thread where an owner removed the roof rack and then these strips, and he said he just rubbed them with methyl alcohol and it dulled/removed the clear coat, then he sprayed new clear coat on. Does that sound right? Or should I sand them. His method sounds a lot easier if that is kosher.

clear coat damage.JPG


As you can see above, some of the black plastic trim is damaged, too. And this from mild PNW sun. Do they not even have sun in Sweden? I must wonder. Here's another example, some replacement lower windshield corner trim pieces. One is from a donor car in Ohio, and the "remains" of what was left on this car after 16 years of mild Seattle/Tacoma weather. Weird...

UV damage.JPG
 
Joined
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I have no idea if the process makes sense. I am following you on the same path as yours with 2006 Sentra, trim pieces falling apart, clearcoat taking a beating and stuff. I am trying to best to delay all of it.

That said, also take a look at Optimum Clear Coat Restorer to see if you need to strip all of the clear coat or just do a patchwork on where it has clearly failed.
 
Joined
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I would order some new parts and then fix the clearcoat. You can order a 2k urethane finish in a rattle can. Last time I checked it was about $25.00. You will need to sand it down with wet dry papers without cutting into the clear. Research is your friend.
 

Astro14

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You can’t get those trim pieces any more.

You have to fix up the ones on your car. 16 year old clips will likely break, so pick up some clips for that trim ( two kinds of clips, by the way), take it off, clear coat it yourself. I sanded with 320 and sprayed it. If you’re careful masking, you could do it on the car.

The rubber pieces are available for not much. Try www.ipdusa.com
 

Astro14

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Next up: what will need to be addressed on your car.

Flame trap
ACEA A3/B4 oil requirement
Transmission fluid
Angle gear fluid
Haldex fluid
Spring seats
Lower control arm front bushings

cheers,
Astro
 
Joined
Feb 15, 2003
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Jupiter, Florida
There are a number of youtube videos that address clearcoat failures. It's one of those things where if caught in time, 'maybe' it can be saved, by sanding and recoating with clear. My car is just at this stage, and I might try to save it. But when it's peeling off, there really is no viable way to remove just the clear and recoat. The youtube videos have various methods to sand down the edges and recoat with clear. It never looks right, at best, it's just not as ugly.
 
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Aug 26, 2009
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UK
Regarding the black plastic trim, I have experienced them to fade and discolour because of the sun. From the picture my guess is the damage is caused by windscreen cleaning additives or household glass cleaner
 

Oro_O

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Sep 20, 2014
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Seattle-ish, WA
Good list. I've been doing my homework and some work, and have addressed most of those issues already. I had seen posts of yours either there at volvoxc or at Swedespeed when I was seeking guidance.

It has only 122k on it. The timing belt and oil trap/flame trap were done last year at the dealership. It had new plugs and coils about a year/5k ago. It also had the DIM replaced last year. I replaced two broken motor mounts this week (transmission and upper), and am installing a transmission aux cooler today, inline filter, and flush with JWS3309. Hopefully I'll get the diff fluids and the haldex filter fluid at the same time today. On the lower mount, I used Howardc64's rebuild trick from volvoxc.com, so now it's MUCH more robust than stock. I have signed up there but membership not "approved" yet. It took a week or 10 days to get someone to "approve" a membership at Swedespeed, still waiting on volvoxc.com. I had, however, NOT yet found that huge list of DIY instructions you linked, that's good.

Yesterday I flushed the PS fluid and installed an inline filter (it has the updated reservoir already). I had run some b-12 a week in it and that fixed the lash at full lock, that and rough shifting being the reason the PO sold it. The LCA bushings are still OK; I inspected them last week. The suspension is still original except for new end-links in the rear, and feels OK - but I will be prepared to do bushings and required parts when necessary.

For oil, I went with my stand-by ACEA A3/B3 fave - Mobil 1 10w30 HM, with a dose of Lubegard Biotech for the ester content more than the additives, and a Fram Ultra. There was some carbon in the Volvo filter and housing; I think from the oil trap service, which was done during the prior OCI. I did a flush before draining it.

I've had it a few weeks driving it a little bit hear and there and finding things to fix, collecting parts, etc. I should have maintenance all up-to-date by the end of today, or very soon. I will take it down the Oregon Coast next week and get really familiar with it, then before fall is fully here I'll deal with the paint and one or two cosmetic issues left.

I will look at ipd for that rubber trim (the vertical edge around the window?). In fact, I'll drive near them one or two days this week when I go south and maybe I'll stop in. I would not have thought I could find that, but I will try. I have been covering things I clean with 303. I did some boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits on the bottom cladding and it looks great. I did that asap as one side was badly faded, the other was barely faded.
before.jpg
After treatment.jpg
 
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